Jump to content

Door ajar

205harleyman
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, kmyndiuk said:

Have a new power window motor on its way. Hopefully get it replaced on Saturday, will update then.

Yes thank you let us all know. I am sure there are more out there that will have the same issue.

 

How was it diagnosed to be the problem? and what was the part number for the motor replacing? thank you

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

74Sprint17SierraATX
74Sprint17SierraATX

Hey all, after fishing the wiring harness out of the door I have found the issue. Underneath the the rubber boot in the door jam, right where the fitting goes into the door, my green/yellow wire is cu

ram1067
ram1067

damn proverbial  "ever since" you change the oil........  

kmyndiuk
kmyndiuk

Update on mine. I pulled the entire wiring harness out of the door and did a continuity test. The green/yellow wire seemed to be an issue. Circuit 6134 Which is the linear interconnect network (commun

Posted Images

kmyndiuk Enthusiast

kmyndiuk

Posted
Posted

Power window motor did not solve anything. Not sure what next. BCM?

On 2018-08-22 at 8:40 PM, Chevy9 said:

Yes thank you let us all know. I am sure there are more out there that will have the same issue.

 

How was it diagnosed to be the problem? and what was the part number for the motor replacing? thank you

 

Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, kmyndiuk said:

Power window motor did not solve anything. Not sure what next. BCM?

 

 

How was it originally diagnosed with in need of a motor?  I think it might be the wires that connects to the truck!?!? No clue at this point. I have exact problem. Anyone?!? Left door part #23171551 harness?!?!?

Edited by Chevy9
MO GMC Enthusiast

MO GMC

Posted
Posted

I am having the same issue with my 2017 GMC.  I dropped the truck off and they replaced the window module.  Its back in the shop today and now they are ordering a new wire harness.  :(  I hate when they need to take the door panels off.  Hopefully they don't need to take a lot of things apart.

 

 

Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, MO GMC said:

I am having the same issue with my 2017 GMC.  I dropped the truck off and they replaced the window module.  Its back in the shop today and now they are ordering a new wire harness.  :(  I hate when they need to take the door panels off.  Hopefully they don't need to take a lot of things apart.

 

 

That sucks.. Please update when they fix the problem. It would be great to know what the problem was in your truck. Mine sounds like the wiring harness too, but I have not taken it apart yet.

kmyndiuk Enthusiast

kmyndiuk

Posted
Posted
On 2018-08-28 at 10:52 AM, Chevy9 said:

That sucks.. Please update when they fix the problem. It would be great to know what the problem was in your truck. Mine sounds like the wiring harness too, but I have not taken it apart yet.

So does this mean the dealership doesn't know what the issue is? They can't diagnose?

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Any dealer is only as good as the techs employed there.

Rookies, don't care, etc.

 

:)

Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, kmyndiuk said:

So does this mean the dealership doesn't know what the issue is? They can't diagnose?

We are diagnosing the same way they are?!? like Diyer2 said, only good as the person they hire..

I have called and they said they have no clue, and have never seen that problem before, but for $180 service fee, they will search for the issue, and $ per hour after that.. They always have never heard of the problem, until you come there with a paper from GM lol..

Hopefully either someone gets it fixed or finds out what the issue is????????

Smittyrules99 New Member

Smittyrules99

Posted
Posted
On 2018-08-28 at 10:52 AM, Chevy9 said:

That sucks.. Please update when they fix the problem. It would be great to know what the problem was in your truck. Mine sounds like the wiring harness too, but I have not taken it apart yet.

Have you had any luck with the new module? 

  • 2 weeks later...
GMTrucktech11 Enthusiast

GMTrucktech11

Posted
Posted

Hello everyone.  I work as a tech for GM and have for years.  I found this topic after searching it online.  GM has no information regarding this issue but after my findings I filed a field service report with GM to make sure they are aware.  

Last week I had a customer bring his '17 Sierra into the dealership with the exact issues stated earlier, door ajar message and drivers window didn't work.  Both issues were  intermittent.  I checked for any literature that could assist in pinpointing the root cause, and found none.  So I started from scratch.  The window open/close signal and door ajar signal are on the same GMLAN communication circuit.  That circuit runs through the window motor (driver) assembly. Ultimately I found heavy corrosion in the connector to the window motor and the pigtail to the harness.  I replaced the motor and pigtail and fixed the customers issue.  Here are some pictures of my findings.  If you don't find corrosion in the pigtail look very close at the window motor pins. 

 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, GMTrucktech11 said:

Hello everyone.  I work as a tech for GM and have for years.  I found this topic after searching it online.  GM has no information regarding this issue but after my findings I filed a field service report with GM to make sure they are aware.  

Last week I had a customer bring his '17 Sierra into the dealership with the exact issues stated earlier, door ajar message and drivers window didn't work.  Both issues were  intermittent.  I checked for any literature that could assist in pinpointing the root cause, and found none.  So I started from scratch.  The window open/close signal and door ajar signal are on the same GMLAN communication circuit.  That circuit runs through the window motor (driver) assembly. Ultimately I found heavy corrosion in the connector to the window motor and the pigtail to the harness.  I replaced the motor and pigtail and fixed the customers issue.  Here are some pictures of my findings.  If you don't find corrosion in the pigtail look very close at the window motor pins.

 

We appreciate you looking into it. Another person changed the motor that did not work. Could that area be cleaned? or do the parts have to be replaced? Thanks again

 

GMTrucktech11 Enthusiast

GMTrucktech11

Posted
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Chevy9 said:

 

We appreciate you looking into it. Another person changed the motor that did not work. Could that area be cleaned? or do the parts have to be replaced? Thanks again

 

With my example the pigtail had to be replaced.  On the other hand; According to GM with almost all their wiring repairs the first step is to clean with contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease to seal it.  If you suspect your application is a result of corrosion but cannot see any, clean it, plug it in and unplug it a few times, apply dielectric grease and see if it makes a difference.  

Edited by GMTrucktech11
Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, GMTrucktech11 said:

With my example the pigtail had to be replaced.  On the other hand; According to GM with almost all their wiring repairs the first step is to clean with contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease to seal it.  If you suspect your application is a result of corrosion but cannot see any, clean it, plug it in and unplug it a few times, apply dielectric grease and see if it makes a difference.  

 

That is great information, thank you from myself and most likely many others with same issue..

Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, GMTrucktech11 said:

no problem, hope this helps! 

 

What if the motor or harness (corrosion) is not the problem.

I looked and saw no corrosion.

 

Is there a way to test the motor?

All connections/ harness on the the door were checked, and look brand new, put grease anyways aswell.

 

Still had same problem.

 

The window does not roll down, window switch buttons do not work, the horn when locking does not work, and the window lock button does not work?

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...