Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
31 minutes ago, 19TrailBoss said:

So my truck is back at the dealer, as my state (South Carolina) requires I give GM one final repair attempt before I can claim the truck as a lemon. A GM engineer was on-site for the inspection, and low and behold they found a crack in my replacement window, same place it cracked on the original window... My new window should be installed early next week, and I was told it has been improved and reengineered... Sounds like dealership talk for it's the same damn flawed design...

 

Has anyone heard of there being a new design rear window out there? My first replacement was from August 2019.

 

For those that may not know my entire store. My original window was resealed per the TSB, then the window was replaced entirely, then the replacement window was resealed, and now I'm looking at another new rear window.

 

On the bright side, maybe the 2021's will be out by the time I finally get to formally claim my truck is a leaky lemon.

 

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Yes the window frame has been updated. It is a much thicker plastic now. 

Posted
Wow, 143 pages of leaky windows [emoji50] .... I had the pass-through on my 2015 and have it again on my 2020. I rarely open it unless the grandson is in the back seat. So far with the new one I've driven 30 miles in an extreme down pour and hit it with a high pressure hose and covered the entire window frame and the seem where the spoiler meets the roof. No leaks whatsoever. My build date = 02/20. Hoping I got the updated part and wont ever have a problem. I do have two questions for the group:
 
1. Does opening and closing the window cause wear that eventually will cause the leakage?
 
2. Are there instances where there were no leaks when the truck was brand new, but start leaking months down the road?
 
I certainly will be keeping a keen eye on this for sure!   
 
 


I think the defroster turning on when it’s hot out might have something to do with it. If you remote start a lot. I turned mine off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted (edited)

Purchased a 2020 GMC Elevation 10 days ago and just noticed the back passenger window leaking. This is my 2nd time washing it.. first by hand and the second time about 90 minutes ago at the car wash. Came back from my first road trip and needed the extra power to wash off these juicy bugs or else I’d be hand washing it.. When hand drying I noticed the leak. Took a closer look and you can see the fresh water. This gets wilder. You can also see the previous water stains from possibly my first wash or possibly from the rain storm last night here in NEPA that brought 2+ inches of rain and heavy winds. Interesting to see what happens next time it rains. (Hopefully Monday)
 

My previous vehicle was 2015 GMC Sierra and it’s funny b/c back in March my transmission went. As I was completing a full detail prior to trade in.. I noticed water stains on the passenger side ceiling. Actually, there were layers of different shades of water stains telling me it’s been going on for some time. I did not have A sliding track window on this truck. Couldn’t believe it. Have no clue how long it’s been happening but I spent countless yet stressful hours upon hours wondering how I kept getting moisture in my truck all these years. Now it all makes sense. 
 

However, this seems to be a problem with GM models. How is this not a recall? I’m definitely calling the dealer next week but mingya, Mingya! Ridiculous.. quite a few trucks on this page with specifically the same location and amount of water. Mine included but this is an expensive price tag.. mhmm seems to be a common trend. Wonder how many others have no clue it’s even happening . Seems like it could be an easy fix but then again, easy fixes have a tendency to turn into worse problems once you start pulling factory pieces apart. 

Edited by DBIII
Posted

I have 2020 2500 HD LT with conv 2 pkg and slider window and so far have not had any issue....11/19 build.....perfectly fine and the kicker is I don't even use rear window.....in my Toyota I would shove lumber thru rear window but on GM its too small of an opening....but so far the window is tightly sealed

Posted
10 hours ago, 19TrailBoss said:

So my truck is back at the dealer, as my state (South Carolina) requires I give GM one final repair attempt before I can claim the truck as a lemon. A GM engineer was on-site for the inspection, and low and behold they found a crack in my replacement window, same place it cracked on the original window... My new window should be installed early next week, and I was told it has been improved and reengineered... Sounds like dealership talk for it's the same damn flawed design...

 

Has anyone heard of there being a new design rear window out there? My first replacement was from August 2019.

 

For those that may not know my entire store. My original window was resealed per the TSB, then the window was replaced entirely, then the replacement window was resealed, and now I'm looking at another new rear window.

 

On the bright side, maybe the 2021's will be out by the time I finally get to formally claim my truck is a leaky lemon.

 

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

It would be cool if you could post the identifier numbers from the new window they installed that they claim is a new design. Looking for the Brand, Circle-E#, and Model. Ex. FUYAO, E4, 43R-000072

 

9 hours ago, Pappy58 said:

Wow, 143 pages of leaky windows ? .... I had the pass-through on my 2015 and have it again on my 2020. I rarely open it unless the grandson is in the back seat. So far with the new one I've driven 30 miles in an extreme down pour and hit it with a high pressure hose and covered the entire window frame and the seem where the spoiler meets the roof. No leaks whatsoever. My build date = 02/20. Hoping I got the updated part and wont ever have a problem. I do have two questions for the group:

 

1. Does opening and closing the window cause wear that eventually will cause the leakage?

 

2. Are there instances where there were no leaks when the truck was brand new, but start leaking months down the road?

 

I certainly will be keeping a keen eye on this for sure!   

 

 

I've often wondered this as well if opening and closing the window causes these stress cracks.

 

Yes, in most cases the leaks occur months after purchase.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
14 hours ago, Jav_eee said:

 


I think the defroster turning on when it’s hot out might have something to do with it. If you remote start a lot. I turned mine off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

 

I don't have an option for rear defrost on remote start. Only the heated seats. 

 

Posted

I have a 2020 Silverado with conv 2...built in 3/20 bought in april...has the fuyao e4 window...been through tons of rainstorms and I’ve check diligently after each one...no signs of leaks or anything...turned off my back defroster setting and haven’t done any high pressure car washes...so far so good! 

Posted

I just checked and mine has the FUYAO 43R000072 E4 glass. Fingers crossed and knocking on wood. ?

Posted

Yup. My glass was replaced 2 days ago and the updated glass numbers seem to all match.

 

20200610_132538.jpg

Posted

The whole defroster thing is just plain silly. As I posted like 75 pages ago, I measured the defroster grid temp on a hot sunny day last summer. After 10-15 mins (a whole cycle), it was running 125-140 degrees F, most areas were in the low to mid 130s. Sounds like a lot until I tell you just the window in the sun, with no defroster on was 120-130 degrees. Really think a 10 degree temperature swing is gonna crack a window frame?

 

No need to disable features on your truck to avoid a leak. Unless you elect to disable the slider by replacing it with a fixed rear window. That actually works! ?

Posted
The whole defroster thing is just plain silly. As I posted like 75 pages ago, I measured the defroster grid temp on a hot sunny day last summer. After 10-15 mins (a whole cycle), it was running 125-140 degrees F, most areas were in the low to mid 130s. Sounds like a lot until I tell you just the window in the sun, with no defroster on was 120-130 degrees. Really think a 10 degree temperature swing is gonna crack a window frame?
 
No need to disable features on your truck to avoid a leak. Unless you elect to disable the slider by replacing it with a fixed rear window. That actually works! [emoji14]


F150s used to shatter back windows with the defroster. I’m still scared from that one. Plus there’s no need for it to come on in the summer. I’ll keep it disabled [emoji1417]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
Posted

If it shatters, that’s a different kind of leak and a fast track to a new, improved window anyway. Just saying there is no way that running the defroster on a hot (or cold) day is going to crack the window frame. It does not make sense, it is not possible.

 

Flex in the body structure is straining a window frame that is under-built for the job. The dope that started this whole defroster conspiracy found that out for himself when he hit a speed bump and broke his own window frame (among other things).

  • Haha 1
Posted
If it shatters, that’s a different kind of leak and a fast track to a new, improved window anyway. Just saying there is no way that running the defroster on a hot (or cold) day is going to crack the window frame. It does not make sense, it is not possible.
 
Flex in the body structure is straining a window frame that is under-built for the job. The dope that started this whole defroster conspiracy found that out for himself when he hit a speed bump and broke his own window frame (among other things).


The problem was they would get too hot. In cold weather. Because fords are smarter and don’t turn it on when it’s not cold outside. Ha!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted

It’s not like it runs all of the time if it’s not needed, and it’s not only temperature based.

Auto Rear Defog

This setting automatically turns the rear defogger on based on temperature and humidity conditions.

 

Doesn’t really matter though. If it’s a 2019, that window is gonna leak either way. It’s the closest thing I’ve seen to a 100% guaranteed problem. 2020s ain’t looking much better either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...