Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Mine has been in the shop for 11 days for the first seal repair. They keep telling me they're waiting on the new spoiler bolts (apparently upgraded). I'm getting rid of it as soon as I get it back. This has been going on for 2 years and they can't redesign a better rear window frame? Maybe the supplier knows their window isn't the root cause? Based on some other things I've read about the new bodies, I'm not certain they don't have a structural issue but I don't know that.

Posted

Can anyone confirm if the rear window and spoiler issue is only isolated to the 1500 class or have there been issues on the HDs too? Thanks for everyone’s help. 

Posted
On 8/14/2020 at 6:31 PM, JAP90 said:

Mine has been in the shop for 11 days for the first seal repair. They keep telling me they're waiting on the new spoiler bolts (apparently upgraded). I'm getting rid of it as soon as I get it back. This has been going on for 2 years and they can't redesign a better rear window frame? Maybe the supplier knows their window isn't the root cause? Based on some other things I've read about the new bodies, I'm not certain they don't have a structural issue but I don't know that.

Anyway you can find out what the new spoiler bolts part number is?  A few dealers in my area have no idea of there being new bolts for it.

 

Posted

yeah, dealers in my area said they don't know about new spoiler bolts, they are just adding caulk/sealant or replacing the window and still adding the caulk/sealant to the new windows. 

Posted (edited)

 

3 hours ago, UGADawgs said:

yeah, dealers in my area said they don't know about new spoiler bolts, they are just adding caulk/sealant or replacing the window and still adding the caulk/sealant to the new windows. 

 

Edited by Jpb1972
Replied to wrong comment
  • Like 1
Posted

Is this only occurring in slider windows? If so, I'm thinking about having a fixed window installed and being done with it.

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, UGADawgs said:

yeah, dealers in my area said they don't know about new spoiler bolts, they are just adding caulk/sealant or replacing the window and still adding the caulk/sealant to the new windows. 

So this is interesting... I was just cleaning up some "residue and dust" left on the spoiler and window. I noticed what looked like a used spoiler bolt gasket in the bed. I have a tonneau cover. The item looks to be a rubber washer about the size of a nickel maybe. I called up the service writer and asked if they replaced the spoiler bolts or washers/gaskets since I found a used one in the bed yet there was nothing on my work order about these parts. He said he'd have to ask the tech and call me back. He called back and said that after talking to the tech, they always replace the gaskets when they pull the spoiler but they don't note them on the customer tickets. 

I Dont Know GIFs | Tenor

  • Like 1
Posted

Individuals operating these  vehicles with water intrusion issues would be wise to provide a source of constant freah air ventilation while driving. With the discovery of "drug resistant molds" it's not even worth taking a chance. By the time one experiences symptoms it's already too late.

Posted
29 minutes ago, It's Tim said:

Individuals operating these  vehicles with water intrusion issues would be wise to provide a source of constant freah air ventilation while driving. With the discovery of "drug resistant molds" it's not even worth taking a chance. By the time one experiences symptoms it's already too late.

Down here in Florida mold is everywhere due to how humid it is. Doesn't require rain at all. 

Posted
4 hours ago, UGADawgs said:

So this is interesting... I was just cleaning up some "residue and dust" left on the spoiler and window. I noticed what looked like a used spoiler bolt gasket in the bed. I have a tonneau cover. The item looks to be a rubber washer about the size of a nickel maybe. I called up the service writer and asked if they replaced the spoiler bolts or washers/gaskets since I found a used one in the bed yet there was nothing on my work order about these parts. He said he'd have to ask the tech and call me back. He called back and said that after talking to the tech, they always replace the gaskets when they pull the spoiler but they don't note them on the customer tickets. 

I Dont Know GIFs | Tenor

All I know is the dealer told me the spoiler bolts are one-time use and they are on backorder. After waiting two weeks and wanting to just take it somewhere else, I called another dealer Shop Foreman in the area who fixed the leaf spring clunking (and who I should have used for this), and he checked and said they aren't lying to me, the bolts are on backorder. Anyone in TX want a good deal on a 2020 AT4, let me know!

Posted
1 hour ago, JAP90 said:

All I know is the dealer told me the spoiler bolts are one-time use and they are on backorder. After waiting two weeks and wanting to just take it somewhere else, I called another dealer Shop Foreman in the area who fixed the leaf spring clunking (and who I should have used for this), and he checked and said they aren't lying to me, the bolts are on backorder. Anyone in TX want a good deal on a 2020 AT4, let me know!

I am in NC.  Took my 2019 silverado in for rear window leak on Tuesday of last week.  They resealed and called to tell me they needed to replace spoiler bolts.  They ordered them and had them sent overnight delivery.  Installed Wed and I was able to pick truck up Wed night.  I am hoping this solves the problem.

Posted

Bought my new 2020 AT4 last month (July) and have given it a few washes with my pressure washer and really soaked the rear sliding window, perimeter and spoiler to see if I could detect any leak early on in the warranty period...no leaks whatsoever...feeling good...I wonder if they fixed the issue?

Posted
Bought my new 2020 AT4 last month (July) and have given it a few washes with my pressure washer and really soaked the rear sliding window, perimeter and spoiler to see if I could detect any leak early on in the warranty period...no leaks whatsoever...feeling good...I wonder if they fixed the issue?

Nope. It just isn’t your time haha I have a 2019 with 3600 miles. No leaks yet but I know they’re coming...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 2
Posted
On 7/22/2020 at 10:19 PM, OnTheReel said:

Yeah, they made a mess of mine fixing the leak. You have to drop the headliner to pull the cab spoiler...so just about everything inside gets man-handled. Left a bunch of fingerprints all over the headliner, and a few broken trim pieces. I can’t ****** anymore though, everything was made right and it’s been a year with no leaky so I’m happy.

What did they do to your truck to stop the leak?

 

My 19 RST with slider rear window went in today. Service advisor told me they are fixing it per the TSB by using the caulking method.

Posted
21 minutes ago, bullet3z said:

What did they do to your truck to stop the leak?

 

My 19 RST with slider rear window went in today. Service advisor told me they are fixing it per the TSB by using the caulking method.

The caulking, believe it or not worked on the first try and is still working. If done right, the concept works and it may be better than a new window (that will also eventually crack). The sealer is flexible and shouldn’t ever fail. If done cleanly, you won’t see it either.

 

Problem is usually the damage they do in the process. Leaving sloppy caulk residue on the paint, messing up the headliner or trim, scratching the truck, etc. Seen a lot of it here.


Since this problem has persisted for like 2 years now, I would think most dealers have done a handful of them and have the process down. But just make sure to look everything over really well. Some of the things they screwed up on mine were not immediately apparent. Good luck.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,987
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RSTRICK
    Newest Member
    RSTRICK
    Joined
  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 627 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coming back from towing a car to my daughter in Nashville truck started making a screaming noise from underneath.  Pulled over placed in park and sure enough whining noise from underneath.  Dropped at the dealer fearing new tranny or another front pump/cover replacement.  Service writer said it sounded like the tranny too...  Well $300, new idler and a belt all is good.  Pop the hood and give a listen. lol  Now I'm telling dealers I'm no longer interested in a new truck.
    • HD uses the 6.6 gas.   Oil consumption while heavy working is considered normal.  1 quart per 100 gallons of fuel is the normal rate above 8600lbs GVWR.  If more than that, it is considered excessive.   They will have to perform an oil consumption test using the guidelines in TSB 03-06-01-023J.     Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons, and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the combustion process, part of this oil layer is consumed. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines. Oil Consumption Oil usage has a direct relationship with the amount of fuel used. The harder an engine works, the more fuel and oil it will use. Therefore, oil usage as a factor of fuel usage is a more accurate indicator of acceptable oil consumption levels than vehicle mileage for vehicles at or above 8600 GVW. The accepted rate of oil consumption for gasoline engines in vehicles at or above 8600 GVW is 1 liter (1 qt) within 400 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used. This rate only applies to vehicles under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, driven at legal speeds and within design intent of the vehicle. Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption. Gasket and External Leaks Inspect the oil pans, engine covers, and the engine oil cooler for leakage. Inspect for oil leakage into the engine coolant. Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick) The vehicle must be parked on a level surface to obtain accurate oil level readings. Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked. Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes, after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked. Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality. High Speed or High RPM Driving Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected. Towing or Heavy Usage Towing a trailer or hauling additional weight will increase oil consumption. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption. PTO Operation Operation of a PTO will increase fuel and oil usage, as the PTO driven accessory uses engine power to operate. Crankcase Ventilation System Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use. Oil Dilution from Condensation On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption. Engine Temperature If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order. Engine Wear Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption. Measurement of Oil Consumption Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).   Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual). Park the vehicle on a level surface. Wait at least 15 minutes, after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase. Check the oil level and record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin. Next ensure the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick. add oil if necessary. Also ensure the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner Manual Ask the customer once they have consumed 100 gallons of fuel schedule an appointment and return to the dealer for inspection. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.  
    • I have a 2024 Chevy Silverado 2500 with the 6.2 liter engine, Vin: 2GC4YME79R1273849, with 27,437 miles. Recently we took a trip from Candor, NY to Townsend, TN pulling our fifth wheel, when I got close to the Townsend, TN area The truck gave me a message of low oil. I checked the dip stick and found it was 2 quarts low. Today, August 27, 2026, I had the oil changed and the technician Found the truck was very low on oil.  Is there a Recall for this? What is my recourse for this issue? Do I call the dealer where I bought it or any chevy dealer?   Robert Strickland 292 Owego Road Candor, NY 13743 352-502-6588 [email protected]
    • We understand the importance of understanding how your Sierra performs, @SoCal Angler. Our team would like to gather the proper details to assist you with your inquiry about your truck's automatic braking. When you have a moment, please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the request form with pertinent details. This will ensure your request is routed correctly so we may take a further look. We will keep an eye out for your outreach.
    • That is the funnel kit I bought and for being here in Canada I did get a better deal than what other sources were charging through a certain supplier in town that sources more directly and they ordered it for me. There are other items now on the market which would be perfect as well but this has worked well which was the hope when I bought it. I mentioned the Amsoil quart bottles as they have that squarish shape up top and it props nicely on the rim of the opening without falling into the funnel so I can leave them sit and drip a bit. You may have already figured out that to get the cap off the valve cover unless one is 7 + feet tall its not going to be reached without standing on a step of some sort and so when I do that I put the right adapter in and just leave the elbow on the funnel all the time anyway and open the lid and then if using quart containers for sure I can stand beside the truck and leisurely add the oil, and I can leave that funnel on when starting the engine to let it idle to fill the filter and then add the rest of the oil to top it up before removing the funnel and putting the factory cap back on. I put the cap back on the top and slide the bottom cap on as it fits onto the elbow adapter also and then store the funnel in a clean household plastic garbage bag along with the adapter so I have no reason to be washing out the inside of the funnel as I keep it completely clean between uses.    Draining the oil as per the under the truck portion, yes indeed that is slick as someone was thinking on GM's part there and admittedly I don't drop the oil screaming hot in this truck due to the exhaust being there and makes it safer as far as the oil temp if its just warmed up some instead as I don't have the truck on any ramps etc as I do it as the tires sit on the garage floor. The filter is not boiling hot then either and can drop it off into another pail after pulling the drain plug and just leave it drip out. Go back under a few hours later with new filter in hand and clean off the filter base and put the new filter on and install the drain plug. The filter is a little cramped in there as per wrapping ones hand around the filter and I am so used to using the band style filter removal tool that its no big deal and same for snugging it up. My filter wrench is many years old now but I think this is the current version and sounds like the right size, just in case my explanation was not great ( those nylon strap wrenches that one tool fits all filters are not my favorite tool to use, I much prefer this style personally )     57020 Swivel Gripper - No Slip Filter Wrench - Small | Lisle Corporation   And again about the oil draining and filter setup under these GM trucks, I've watched Ford videos of them struggling with oil flying sideways out of the oil pan on the gas 7.3 due to the sideways drain plug onto other components or cross members and guys trying to make shields out of carboard etc and other Ford pickups that Ford insisted they have sideways drain plugs. One win for GM there anyway with this engine. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...