Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Good morning,

 

So I'm finally going to reach out to my fellow Silverado and Sierra owners. I have been dealing with a harmonic vibration issue with my 2014 Silverado crew cab 5.3 2WD for around 5 months. I have taken my truck into 3 different dealers to only have the driveshaft replaced under the powertrain warranty and it fixed about 40% of my vibration issue. The vibration can be felt in the gas pedal, steering wheel, seat, and it can be heard. It sounds a lot like a phasing boom. The dealer that replaced the driveshaft has said they now believe its my "CHEAP hancook tires" but I can duplicate the vibration with the truck supported on jack stands under the axle housing (not changing the pinion angle) with the wheels removed. Now with the wheels removed the vibration is not as bad but its still the same vibration I'm experiencing. One dealer told me I have a bent axle but I don't have any wobble side to side with the wheel on. the driver side wheel does look like it has a highspot with the wheel installed (you can swap wheels with the same results). the tech that replaced the driveshaft said he checked the axles and the checked out okay... Now I have yet to get a good dry warm day to throw a dial indicator on it myself to check but I wanted to check with yall and see what you think. the next nice day I get I plan on pulling the diff cover and taking a look inside. but any help would be much appreciated. I took it in to see about trading back into a Toyota and they didn't want to give me hardly anything for it and the new TRD Tacoma I drove just seemed so cheap for the $36,xxx they wanted for it. My Silverado has a lot more features plus im a fan of the LS engines so I plan on trying to resolve this issue before I try to trade it again.

 

vibration is felt from 20-70+mph the worst is 55-65mph. running boards have been removed, new trans mount, new complete driveshaft. tires have been rotated and the vibration is still coming from the rear center of the truck. Vibrates in V4 & V8, and in neutral.

 

I also have a case opened with GM on this issue since October 2018 so it's well documented.

 

2014 Silverado LT 5.3L 6l80e 2WD crew cab. (built in the mexico plant)

87,XXX MILES.

 

Please keep the stupid comments to yourself. I just want to get this issue resolved so I can enjoy this truck.

 

 

2014 silverado.JPG

Posted

Road force all the tires and add the gm bulletin listed shims. Then if there is still.a issue I would bet axles. There was a run of bad ones and by run I mean about all of them. 

Oh and hub center wheel centers. What ever they call them. Again cheap.and a listed must for service claim.

Posted
19 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Road force all the tires and add the gm bulletin listed shims. Then if there is still.a issue I would bet axles. There was a run of bad ones and by run I mean about all of them. 

Oh and hub center wheel centers. What ever they call them. Again cheap.and a listed must for service claim.

That's what im leaning towards. I did run through a pot hole one day pulling out of the parking lot at work. and my vibration got a little worse after that. but the first dealer I took it to said they were fine and along with the third dealer. the second said I had a damaged axle and wanted to tear the rear end apart PER GM and see if a pot hole caused damage. if so then I was going to pay $900 for just labor to find out. I said F**K that I will do it myself. I seen one guy on youtube had a problem with his axles and he replaced them with Yukon gear and it fixed his problem. I did notice it looks like my out hub faces aren't round but like I said I haven't put a dial on it yet to see.

Posted

Check these two threads. Sit back and pace yourself. There is ALOT of reading.

 

 

 

 

Posted

I sent Yukon a message the other day. I'm still waiting for a reply. Did yours feel like a buzzing in the gas pedal? I also have noticed it seems like mine is sluggish. If I let off the gas it almost seems like you have the brakes applied very little. but all my pads and rotors look good and I don't have any brake pedal pulsing.

Posted

mattjohn245,

 

Do you notice this vibration being more pronounced between 1500 and 1900' RPM's ?

Posted
5 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

mattjohn245,

 

Do you notice this vibration being more pronounced between 1500 and 1900' RPM's ?

I wouldn't say its much more pronounced.. but most of my driving consists of 60mph at 1500RPM. Everynow and then when I'm driving along I notice it will switch to V4 and the RPM drops to 1,000 or so and ill get a more pronounced buzzing and vibration and when you left off the gas it shudders (it does this really bad when going 35-40 on back roads)

Posted

So you never really notice this just shortly after a dead stop before you reach 35mph?

Does it ever seem to stay in V4 even when pressing the gas pedal to lightly accelerate?

 

Posted
7 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

So you never really notice this just shortly after a dead stop before you reach 35mph?

Does it ever seem to stay in V4 even when pressing the gas pedal to lightly accelerate?

 

yes, It will stay in V4 under load. I can go from 60mph to 10mph turning off the highway onto my road I live on, and once I make the turn and press the gas it will stay in V4 until you goose it pretty good. It goes into V4 at times I don't think it should... my commute to work is all highway at 60mph 16 miles each way and I think it has just learned how I drive possibly.

 

Are you leaning towards torque converter shudder from the dead stop to 35MPH? One shop foreman with a dealership rode with me and said, he thought it was a torque converter issue. they said the fluid pressures checked out and it locked up like it should. I mentioned to them after 4,000 miles of driving with the driveshaft out of spec wouldn't that cause wear on transmission and rear end components? they replied with "well you have cheap hancook tires and an out of round rim. so to continue further you need to purchase a OEM wheel to continue further". The service advisor also told me "well we have replaced everything under warranty that we could so if you want to proceed your going to have to start paying for labor and parts." 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

If it feels like you're going over rumble sticks/ rpm flutter at constant speed. Look up torque converter shudder. There is a service bulletin that can be applied under your drivetrain warranty. I believe mine started the same way until it was a consistent failure on the highway. Don't change anything for a an other 10,000 miles or until it gets worse. The RPM flutter will get more pronounced and then you know it's the torque converter shudder. 

Posted

It shouldn't be the converter if it does it in neutral. Converter should only be under load accelerating.

Posted
9 hours ago, Lsgun1 said:

It shouldn't be the converter if it does it in neutral. Converter should only be under load accelerating.

Missed the neutral comment. 

  • 2 months later...
  • 10 months later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It really doesn’t matter to me. Making a blanket statement that can be refuted will be. As I pointed out the information is out there. Hey google.
    • My area is one of the most affluent areas in Texas. And yet affordable housing is close by. My family business pays top wages and turnover is very low. You can’t but people in a box if you want to succeed the opportunity is there. 
    • It was previously working, but the continually running compressor threw me for a loop. It wouldn't be out of the realm of possibility that a 26 year old AC system had lost some of its charge and could be exhibiting low charge indicators, so I thought I had it licked. Add some refrigerant to get the low and high pressures in range like on the old 134 systems.   I learned the continuously running compressor is normal, and that I need to know how much is in the system, as well as needing to meter what goes in. I'm only used to working on older R134a and R12 systems that aren't variable displacement. This is how we learn...LOL.   Long story short, I had a 20% off coupon for a new Jiffy Lube that opened nearby. I took it up there yesterday and they did an evac/recharge using their brand new machine from Mahle. Had a good conversation with the guy, they loved the car and I was out of there for $159 plus tax. Digitally measured charge, exactly 1.5lb of refrigerant went in.
    • In most areas of the country, wages have trailed CPI increases over time (let's say, since the 70's) and things like housing, energy, and food have vastly outpaced wages on the whole. Can't ignore that, it's very real.   That isn't to say there aren't ways to live in ways that mitigate some of that, including moving to cheaper areas of the country. In KNut's neck of the world, median housing prices in "nearby" Dallas are more like $500k. If you're raising a family and young in a successful career, your economic opportunities are probably going to be better living closer to Dallas than Cornhole. A 3 hour (6+ round trip) daily commute probably isn't tolerable for most folks. Grumpy mentioned economic migration; but we've seen what happens when people populate and grow an area. It becomes more expensive when economic opportunities come to roost.   One thing different now from back in the 70's is our quality and standard of living has changed. Healthcare is light years better, for example. But it's also much more expensive. And we have communication and information/tech tools that folks in the 70's could never imagine, and they're accessible to people of just about all incomes. Cars are light years safer, faster, and filled with tech advances. Homes are larger, more energy-efficient, and more luxurious on the whole, from starter homes to luxury homes.   Seattle was once affordable. My folks came here in the 70's with a lot of other people from California looking to escape uncontrolled sprawl, smog, and rising prices in the Bay Area. Seattle and the surrounding area has grown considerably; The home they bought for, I think it was $70k or $80k in the late 70's is now worth $1.2M today. The same house.   So while there have been obvious boosts in some areas of quality and standard of living, regarding opportunity, that's a bit more nuanced. It's really not possible for young people to get started in similar situations in areas of the country that have become "HCOL" (high cost of living). There are many more areas than before, which is to say they exclude younger workers or make their lives significantly harder. They have to commute farther and longer to afford to live in the area. They have to take outsized risk, take on more debt, significantly delay family planning. Or, they could move somewhere cheaper, but there's usually a loss of economic opportunity that comes with that. Even for the same job, it may pay a lot less in a LCOL.   What I don't like are Boomers with phones thinking they have all the answers and outright saying that if people stopped paying for their cell phone that they'd be rich. It's as stupid and misguided as people who think they'd only be rich if taxes weren't so high. Sorry guys, Elon proved you wrong on that one, I guess you're just lazy and blaming your own situation for the reason you're not wealthy. Mobile communication is basically an expectation in a modern society and workforce and it's often cheaper than having a copper landline these days, so... What's your point?
    • My 2008 started exhibiting similar symptoms, wasn't 'cold' enough. I went through a pretty extensive diagnostic process for a DIY'er with limited OBD access. System evacuation and recharge included.   Noticed one day the passenger side was cold (I'm never over there so took awhile to notice).   Pulled the drivers side blend door actuator out, disassembled it and cleaned it out. Put it back in and did some kind of reset and it fixed the problem.   Long story short, it wasn't the A/C system at fault, the blend door wasn't moving to full cold position. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...