Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 LT CC. I recently purchased tow mirrors and installed them. The tow mirrors I purchased came with the wiring for the lighting if your truck didn’t come with mirror lighting. 

Theres four wires I need to splice in somewhere (per mirror)

The wiring diagram they gave me was vague and I’m not too sure what all of the lights are:

-Signal on the glass (+)

-lights (-)

-Reversing light (+)

-Clearance light (+)

 

I am an avionics guy for airplanes so I’d say I’m ok at wiring. I tried tapping the blinker wire into the BCM but blinker wouldn’t come on. I also read the you really shouldn’t splice into the BCM.

 

Does Anyone have advice for running these wires and where I can tap into ? 

 

P.s. I know someone on here sells a harness, but I don’t want to spend extra money if I don’t have to. 

I already ran the wires in the cab. 

C0677DDB-B409-425F-AAB5-377E8C54C689.png

6599680C-03AE-4F8D-BBC4-1D92AD0C21A3.png

0C621AE8-FF71-46CD-B807-E1BE980020A9.jpeg

BA38243B-2B97-40F1-A292-1C6FD40B7B17.png

Edited by jusd33
Posted

If your truck didn't come with tow mirrors from factory it's not as simple as plug and play for everything to work properly.
Pgamboda can get you squared away as to what u need to do.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Posted
33 minutes ago, doozer78 said:

If your truck didn't come with tow mirrors from factory it's not as simple as plug and play for everything to work properly.
Pgamboda can get you squared away as to what u need to do.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 

I understand it’s not plug and play. And Pgamboda sells the harnesses. I was wondering if anyone knew where I can splice the wires into . 

Posted

Same mirrors I purchased and installed on my 18 hc. Everything is working except for reverse LEDs. I have them as puddle lamps like my small mirrors had. All splicing and diodes were installed in the door. No special harness and no running wires thru the doors. If you had puddle lights on your old mirrors and can live without reverse LEDs you should be able to get everything from inside the door. With 3 diodes. Also my puddle lights now shine right on the door handle.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

X500 Connector Detail.PNG

 

Tow mirrors have:

 

Turn Signals

Cargo Lights (Reverse Light)

Park Lamps (Running Lamp)

 

You want to make sure you add the ground on the mirror plug.  You should have the turn signal in the door jamb plug.  So if you ran it in the cab, splice on the back side of the jamb connector.  The cargo light and running light may not be present on your door jamb connector (it is missing on early model 2015 trucks).

 

Good luck!

 

In the BCM, the left/right turn signal are separate.  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
12 hours ago, pgamboa said:

X500 Connector Detail.PNG

 

Tow mirrors have:

 

Turn Signals

Cargo Lights (Reverse Light)

Park Lamps (Running Lamp)

 

You want to make sure you add the ground on the mirror plug.  You should have the turn signal in the door jamb plug.  So if you ran it in the cab, splice on the back side of the jamb connector.  The cargo light and running light may not be present on your door jamb connector (it is missing on early model 2015 trucks).

 

Good luck!

 

In the BCM, the left/right turn signal are separate.  

Thanks for the clarification! That’d be awesome if I can just wire it there. 

 

So according to the picture you posted my wired would be 

 -Signal on the glass (+) (pin 41)

-lights (-) (ground ?) where would I ground this ? Pin 2?

-Reversing light (+) (pin 9?)

-Clearance light (+) (pin 11?)

 

Posted
Thanks for the clarification! That’d be awesome if I can just wire it there. 
 
So according to the picture you posted my wired would be 
 -Signal on the glass (+) (pin 41)
-lights (-) (ground ?) where would I ground this ? Pin 2?
-Reversing light (+) (pin 9?)
-Clearance light (+) (pin 11?)
 

Yes all correct. Ground is any chassis ground.

3780aa20cd282c397316da59f99a22c3.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Thanks 1
  • Confused 1
Posted
13 hours ago, pgamboa said:

X500 Connector Detail.PNG

 

Tow mirrors have:

 

Turn Signals

Cargo Lights (Reverse Light)

Park Lamps (Running Lamp)

 

You want to make sure you add the ground on the mirror plug.  You should have the turn signal in the door jamb plug.  So if you ran it in the cab, splice on the back side of the jamb connector.  The cargo light and running light may not be present on your door jamb connector (it is missing on early model 2015 trucks).

 

Good luck!

 

In the BCM, the left/right turn signal are separate.  

Thanks for the clarification! That’d be awesome if I can just wire it there. 

 

So according to the picture you posted my wired would be 

 -Signal on the glass (+) (pin 41)

-lights (-) (ground ?) where would I ground this ? Pin 2?

-Reversing light (+) (pin 9?)

-Clearance light (+) (pin 11?)

 

 

 

It looks like the door jam connector runs to this junction... is it possible to just splice it here. (It seems tough to get to that door jam connector ) 

590F17D1-1544-435F-9451-E024EFD91628.jpeg

Posted

Got the blinkers and the running lights working. What is this 3 diode thing ? 

Posted
22 minutes ago, jusd33 said:

Got the blinkers and the running lights working. What is this 3 diode thing ? 

Don't worry bout what I told you. Do exactly what PG tells you and you'll have no problems. I wired mine differently and just made sure I didn't have any back feed. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
3 hours ago, jusd33 said:

Got the blinkers and the running lights working. What is this 3 diode thing ? 

Diodes are used to "jump" power from one circuit to another.  There are several diode mods that can be done in the BCM for things like - Auto Cargo Light On with Reverse, Puddle Lamp follows Interior Dome Lamp, Fog Lights always on when headlights are one, etc.  Also used to prevent back feed voltage.

  • 10 months later...
Posted

Bringing this post back from the dead. Anyone know anything about installing these on a 2018 LTZ? Should it have most everything to make the mirrors work? I'm guessing so since I have the puddle lights and the turn signals. How would I go about getting the running light to work? Thanks any help is appreciated. 

  • 4 months later...
Posted
On 4/6/2019 at 3:11 PM, jusd33 said:

Got the blinkers and the running lights working. What is this 3 diode thing ? 

How did you get the blinkers and runnings lights to work?

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

 Bought towing mirrors for my 2017 1500 Silverado LT.    Went and installed my mirrors. Everything worked good for the first week. followed the wiring shown above for my turn, running, and cargo lights. On my way back home from vacation, my DIS told me my turn signals were not working , this was intermitted. Now that I am home after my trip of towing my trailer, when my lights come on so do my turn signal on the mirror and the front markers continually blink. Was thinking about disconnecting the markers and just using the turn signals. Any help would be grateful.

Edited by razingnut

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...