Gauge cluster and starting

[z97silverado]

So I have a couple issues with my truck. 1997 k1500 silverado with roughly 280k on it. I bought it a couple years ago and the guy put a newish engine in it with 60k on it but it's always had hesitation to start. It would crank a few times before starting, sometimes I have to key off, wait a sec and try again to get it to go. I had the battery (800cca) tested, wires tested, alternator tested and replaced the starter, nothing. Had our mechanic at work look, said the timing was off by -2, and it starts a little better but it still does the thing. No OBD codes except for my exhaust leak. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Second issue, my gauges are reading a bit off. My oil pressure reads high but will go down low if I let off the gas to coast, gas gauge is accurate to about 1/4 of a tank higher than it is, the whole cluster is dim but grows brighter repeatedly, voltage reads 15V or higher, and temp reads way overheating and scares the crap out of me even though I put a scanner on it and read the raw data from the new temp sensor I put in and it shows normal.

 

I can find guides to repair 03 or newer clusters, but nothing about repairing older ones. My guess is all the steppers are shot at nearly 300k miles. I don't know why the dash is so dim though, I thought it might be voltage related. Anyone know about repairing those older clusters? Can I use the same steppers as the 03+ guides use?

[Mikebtte]

I know a few folks on here repair gauges. They may chime in. As for your slow to start, have you checked your fuel filter? Maybe it just builds up fuel pressure slower than you would expect. 

[TW97C1500]

Starting issue could be the anti-drainback valve that I guess is in the fuel pump module on these.  It holds fuel in the line.  If you've noticed, when you turn the key ON (not all the way to START) you can hear the fuel pump run for a second or two.  If the line has drained most of the fuel back to the tank, that is not long enough to get full pressure, or maybe not even liquid fuel, to the injectors.  When you turn the key ON, OFF then back ON before you go to START, the pump runs again and gets fuel up there.

[z97silverado]

16 hours ago, TW97C1500 said:

Starting issue could be the anti-drainback valve that I guess is in the fuel pump module on these.  It holds fuel in the line.  If you've noticed, when you turn the key ON (not all the way to START) you can hear the fuel pump run for a second or two.  If the line has drained most of the fuel back to the tank, that is not long enough to get full pressure, or maybe not even liquid fuel, to the injectors.  When you turn the key ON, OFF then back ON before you go to START, the pump runs again and gets fuel up there.

I have not checked the fuel filter. It's probably due for replacing either way. I've had it for 2 years but only put less than 4000 miles on it.

 

Are you saying that the anti-drainback valve is probably defective? I can't imagine it'd be easy to get to the fuel pump without dropping the tank in this truck. I didn't even know about those valves, either. Thanks for the info!

[TW97C1500]

Yes, that's what I'm saying.  Yes, you can't get to the fuel pump with it up against the bottom of the bed, so either have to drop the tank, lift the bed, or cut a hole in the bed, which I wouldn't do.  On the '98 I had years ago, I changed pumps twice over 380,000+ miles.  The fuel line fittings were the worst part.  If you have some high quality (read: $$$$$) disconnect tools it would likely be a lot easier.  You just don't want to have much gas in the tank at the time.

[wreckdiver230]

southern speedometer repair in florida can rebuild your dash, i have talked to them about my tripmeter repair