For the last 5,000 miles or so, I have noticed a (louder than normal) ticking noise coming from my engine bay. Recently. while navigating a parking garage at the airport, I lost all brake boost vacuum and almost hit a column. I did some research and found all of the info online relating to the NHTSA investigation etc.
I went to my local dealership. They wanted $900 to replace the vacuum pump. It broke out as $615 in labor and $285 in parts. After looking around online, I couldn’t find a detailed write-up or video on this repair. I put together a write-up for anyone else who might want to save a few hundred bucks
Be easy on me, I do a little light mechanical work but and have never done a write-up. I’m sure I screwed some things up…
Supplies I Used:
· Flathead Screwdriver
· Plastic Pry Tool
· Small Hook Pick
· 3/8-in Ratchet
· 3/8-in Torque Wrench
· 3/8-in Drive 3-in Extension
· 3/8-in Drive 6-in Extension
· 1/2-in Drive 24-in Breaker Bar
· 1/2-in Drive 5-in Extension
· 10mm Socket (3/8-in drive)
· 11mm Socket (3/8-in drive)
· 15mm Socket (3/8-in drive)
· 24mm Socket (1/2-in drive)
· 7 Quart Drain Pan
· OEM Stretch Belt Installation/Removal Tool (AutoZone Loaner P/N 27272)
· Red Paint Pen
· Small Bungee Cord
· Medium Strength Threadlocker
· ACDelco GM Original Equipment Vacuum Pump -- P/N 12669488 (I bought it from gmpartsgiant for about $130 shipped)
Step 1 – Prep the Workspace:
Park the truck on a level surface Lock steering wheel about 1/16th of rotation right of center Disconnect the negative battery terminal Remove the plastic skid plate/shielding from below the engine compartment (four 10mm and two 15mm bolts) Place the drain pan on the ground below the vacuum pump Pull the air intake tube away from the throttle body to give access to the crank pulley from above Disconnect the two crank case vent hoses from the intake Disconnect the intake from the throttle body by loosening the clamp and pulling it back Pull the intake up and toward the passenger side. Secure it, out of the way, using a bungee cord Cover the throttle body intake with a plastic bag, secure with a rubber band
Step 2 – Remove the Lower Steering Shaft
With the paint pen, mark the steering shafts at the connection points between the intermediate steering shaft and the steering gearbox input shaft. This will be used for reference at reinstallation. With the steering wheel locked about 1/16th of a rotation right of center, the upper bolt (closest to the firewall) of the lower steering shaft easily accessible. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt. Note: The upper bolt is secured with a collared nut that wraps around the shaft. When the bolt is completely removed, you should be able pop the nut off the shaft. Moving down the shaft, there is an 11mm bolt that fastens the lower steering shaft to the steering gearbox input shaft. I was able to easily access this bolt by unlocking the steering wheel and slightly moving the wheel toward center. Remove the 11mm bolt. With both bolts removed, remove the lower steering shaft from the steering gearbox input shaft by pulling upward. Once the lower steering shaft is separated from the input shaft, slide the lower shaft down and toward the front of the vehicle to separate the lower shaft from the intermediate shaft.
Step 3 – Remove the Vacuum Pump
Place the stretch belt removal tool on the vacuum pump pulley. Using the 1/2-in drive 24-in breaker bar, 24mm socket and 5-in extension, turn the crank pulley until the belt slips off the vacuum pump pulley. Follow the vacuum line from the brake booster to the vacuum pump. Using the plastic pry tool, separate pressure fit fasteners holding the vacuum line in place. Additionally, remove the pressure fit fastener securing a wire loom to the pump Using the hook pick, carefully remove the retaining clip where the vacuum hose is attached to the vacuum pump. Note: There is a heatshield around this fitting the will need to be carefully peeled back. Separate the vacuum hose from the pump and rotate the hose out of the work area. Four bolts secure the vacuum pump in place. Using a the 11mm socket and a combination of the 3/8-in drive extensions, loosen all four bolts. While holding the vacuum pump in place, finish removing all four bolts and separate the pump and gasket from its mounting point. Note: About 1/4 to 1/3 of a quart of oil will leak out into the drain pan during this process. Lift the pump out while rotating it around the wire looms and belts (this will take some finagling).
Step 4 – Install the New Vacuum Pump
Coming from the top, rotate the new pump into position. Note: The pump I bought came with four new bolts and a new gasket. While ensuring that the gasket is firmly in place, use the 11mm socket and extensions to finger tighten the four bolts. With the 3/8-in drive torque wrench, torque the four bolts to 23 ft/lbs. Note: I called my dealership service department and was told the torque specs over the phone. I have no documentation showing the specs Rotate the vacuum hose back into location and attach to the pump. Snap the retaining clip back into place and put the heat shield back into position. Push the pressure fit fasteners back into position Using the reverse process of removal, reinstall the belt. Note: if you are reusing the same belt, be sure to check that it is in acceptable condition for reuse.
Step 5 – Reinstall the Lower Steering Shaft
Lining up the paint pen marks, slide the lower steering shaft back onto the intermediate steering shaft. Once the lower shaft and intermediate shaft are together, slide the lower shaft onto the steering gearbox input shaft. Apply the threadlocker to both bolts. Reinstall each bolt (15mm and 11mm) and torque to 35 ft/lbs. Note: I called my dealership service department and was told the torque specs over the phone. I have no documentation showing the specs.
Step 6 – Reinstallation of Workspace Items
Reinstall air intake tube using the reverse process outlined in step 1. Reinstall the plastic skid plate/shielding from below the engine compartment (four 10mm and two 15mm bolts). Connect the negative battery terminal. Check engine oil. Refill as needed (1/4 to 1/3 quart)
Looking for help/instructions on replacing fuel injector/s for a 2017 5.3L Silverado. Truck has 80K miles on it and a #5 misfire. Dealer ran a diagnostics and said the injector needs to be replaced.
I found a couple pictures on the forum of the fuel injectors but very little information on steps to replace them. The only videos I could find online were for older models with a different injector diagram. Talking to the dealer they quoted me $770 to replace a single injector, gaskets and piping associated with the job. 4 hours or labor and $240 in parts.
Are there any good instructions or videos out there on replacing fuel injectors on a 2017 Silverado?
I've never done a job like this but consider myself mechanically include, is this an easy enough job or should I leave this to the dealer to do?
I know they say if your replacing a single injector you might as well replace all 4 on one bank but is that really necessary, $110 a piece and if the other 3 are fine why replace them?
The dealer said the piping and gaskets must be replaced even for a single injector replacement job. Is this all necessary? I've never had another vehicle with injector problems so this will be a first.
12687650 (1) injector
12626354 (8) gaskets
12677002 (1) pipe
12677004 (1) pipe
Any help, links to instruction/diagrams or videos would be awesome! I enjoy working on these projects rather than paying someone else to do the work since you learn something every time. I also want it done right.
Thanks all in advance!
"The U.S. government is investigating more than 100 complaints of poor brake performance on 2.7 million General Motors big pickups and SUVs."
Hold your receipts if you have done any work, hopefully a recall comes out of this.
I also think reporting your issues to the NHTSA may get this rolling out faster.
Ok so a while back I posted about my 2500HD running rough, I changed the Injectors (2 weren’t firing) and then it ran as bad if not worse and started knocking.
Well today day I finally got around to pulling the engine apart to find #3 rod broke in half and into pieces. Anyone have any ideas on what happened?
I recently did a dod delete on my 2007 suburban. 6.0 200,000 miles. I thought the problem was the afm lifters being that there was a tick at highway speeds. I only had a tick at highway speeds. If I drove on the street I would never get the noise. As soon as I held a steady speed on the highway I would get what sounds like a lifter tick. The dod delete work was done by a Preformance shop. I do not think that dod was the problem. If I hold the throttle steady at 2000rpm while in park I can get the tick to come on. After I let the engine idle about 2-3 minutes the tick goes away. As soon as I hold the rpms back up it will come back and repeat the process. No loss of power while this is happening and no other sounds. Oil pressure is about 10-15 at idle and close to 40 while on highway. I would greatly appreciate any help.
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 161 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,047 Guests (See full list)
- Jon S.
- Chris Thornton
- CAE AT4
- Grumpy Bear
- [email protected]
- Alex Hardy
- Rod S
- Mike Barber
- 14 gmcl83
- L. Stage
- DESERT DOG
- Free home
- Tmac Z71
- Michael Box
- f8l vnm