Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have never liked the bass coming from the Bose door speakers in my AT4. I installed the factory sub and turned the bass down to -12 on the infotainment and up on the sub, better but not happy still.  I bought a couple of PAC BB -1PR bass blocking caps on Amazon $9.00 they are small and go on the hot side of the input to the speaker, right yellow left blue. I cut the wires in the door floor panel tray and just put them in with red butt connectors. The sound is so much better it cuts out 0-300 on 4 ohms and 0-150 on 8 ohms. Not really sure which they are but it works. I can now set the bass to 0 in the infotainment center and turn the bass on the sub down quite a bit, maybe to half. The sound images much better and the mids and highs are much more crisp without all that muddy bass. A huge improvement for $9.00. I want to get in there with a real time analyzer soon and finish it up. The factory sub sounds much better now.

Posted

When you say you installed the factory sub, do you mean the kicker sub?

Posted

The front doors are mid and not bass with the Bose.. you might have cut out all of that..

Posted
4 hours ago, tmo said:

The front doors are mid and not bass with the Bose.. you might have cut out all of that..

Actaully the OP is correct, 

 

Mine do the exact same, Sound like shi*t . To much low frequency trying to come through the door speakers causing a vibrating sound from them.  Bose sends to low of frequency to the door speakers.  Call it mid or bass either way the speakers can not effectively play the low frequency they are being sent. 

Posted

He shouldn’t be trying to turn the bass down and expecting it to drop in the door speakers though.. also without mid his system will sound like an Alexa paired with a sub.. look up YouTube videos.. it’s not great

 

Posted

OK yes the bass is in the 6X9 door speakers, At most I cut out below 300 hz if the speakers are 4 ohm. I think they are 8 ohm so only cut out below 150 hz. This is called a crossover it’s used in many speakers. It does not sound like Alexa. Yes I have the factory Kicker sub I installed. I have been an audio engineer for over 40 years. I have designed $250,000 systems for church’s and $10,000 systems for cars not my own. I never spent more than about $2500 on some killer car systems for myself. I actually do know what I am doing. At this point I question that there is a factory Bose sub included with the Current Bose system, at least on my AT4. I believe it is a 6 speakers system not 7. The shitty bass coming from the doors. My system sounds MUCH better than stock Bose. I spent $610 so far. I was not out to build a ridiculous system. Been there done that. I just wanted to fix the factory one, that’s harder and more fun to me. I know there are better subs and speakers, I want my truck to be close to stock for resale.

Posted
9 hours ago, tmo said:

He shouldn’t be trying to turn the base down and expecting it to drop in the door speakers though.. also without mid his system will sound like an Alexa paired with a sub.. look up YouTube videos.. it’s not great

I don’t expect people who can’t spell bass to understand. It is an in line crossover that just effects the door speakers now. Not that you know what a real time analyzer is but I used one to set up my system. I have a lot of clean bass now from the Kicker sub. Getting rid of the shitty bass from the doors not advised if you don’t have an add on sub.

  • Like 1
Posted

Lol good for you.. mine is architecture and structural engineering not audio. You should be able to defend without attacking if you have been in the field for so long.. but I do know how to spell bass.. I’m not sure why you are feeling so attacked that you have to go after autocorrect on my iPhone.. [emoji23]

 

Posted
On 11/3/2019 at 10:14 AM, Mountain boy said:

I don’t expect people who can’t spell bass to understand. It is an in line crossover that just effects the door speakers now. Not that you know what a real time analyzer is but I used one to set up my system. I have a lot of clean bass now from the Kicker sub. Getting rid of the shitty bass from the doors not advised if you don’t have an add on sub.

 

On 11/3/2019 at 12:22 PM, tmo said:

Lol good for you.. mine is architecture and structural engineering not audio. You should be able to defend without attacking if you have been in the field for so long.. but I do know how to spell bass.. I’m not sure why you are feeling so attacked that you have to go after autocorrect on my iPhone.. emoji23.png

 

Calm down fellas, lol. I have no doubt you are both well versed in your areas of expertise. There is another solution to this, a mechanical/structural one. After all, this is a mechanical/structural problem. Some of the bass frequencies from the front speakers is hitting the resonance frequency of the plastics in the door. This is the reason why the really bad vibrations and rattles only occur with some songs. I'm guessing GM's electrical and mechanical engineers didn't talk to each other when they were designing this. 

 

Anyways, you should be able to dampen these frequencies with maybe different rubber grommets where the speaker mounts to the doors so very little of it gets carried to the doors. This solution should retain all the sound. This is how i intend to fix it on my end whenever i find the time. My 2 cents. 

Posted
On 11/3/2019 at 1:47 AM, tmo said:

He shouldn’t be trying to turn the bass down and expecting it to drop in the door speakers though.. also without mid his system will sound like an Alexa paired with a sub.. look up YouTube videos.. it’s not great

 

Adjusting the bass dramatically affects the door speakers. You would think the bass would only affect the Bose subwoofer , but I’d say all low bass comes from the doors and the mid bass actually comes from the subwoofer . Which makes sense as the stock subwoofer is very small in comparison to the 6x9s in the doors. 

Posted (edited)
On 11/2/2019 at 2:19 PM, Mountain boy said:

I have never liked the bass coming from the Bose door speakers in my AT4. I installed the factory sub and turned the bass down to -12 on the infotainment and up on the sub, better but not happy still.  I bought a couple of PAC BB -1PR bass blocking caps on Amazon $9.00 they are small and go on the hot side of the input to the speaker, right yellow left blue. I cut the wires in the door floor panel tray and just put them in with red butt connectors. The sound is so much better it cuts out 0-300 on 4 ohms and 0-150 on 8 ohms. Not really sure which they are but it works. I can now set the bass to 0 in the infotainment center and turn the bass on the sub down quite a bit, maybe to half. The sound images much better and the mids and highs are much more crisp without all that muddy bass. A huge improvement for $9.00. I want to get in there with a real time analyzer soon and finish it up. The factory sub sounds much better now.

Man, thanks! I'll do this ASAP. Assuming that amp is in the back - are these rear floor panels on both sides? Picture would  be nice for some of us :)

Edited by hardloaf
Posted

I just did the front so far the original post had the complete wiring diagram attached. Remember the amp is in the back so the wires come forward. I like the sound much better without the boomy bass from the front speakers. Still have bass from the door speakers just not as low. My sub has all the bass I need.  

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 11/2/2019 at 4:19 PM, Mountain boy said:

I have never liked the bass coming from the Bose door speakers in my AT4. I installed the factory sub and turned the bass down to -12 on the infotainment and up on the sub, better but not happy still.  I bought a couple of PAC BB -1PR bass blocking caps on Amazon $9.00 they are small and go on the hot side of the input to the speaker, right yellow left blue. I cut the wires in the door floor panel tray and just put them in with red butt connectors. The sound is so much better it cuts out 0-300 on 4 ohms and 0-150 on 8 ohms. Not really sure which they are but it works. I can now set the bass to 0 in the infotainment center and turn the bass on the sub down quite a bit, maybe to half. The sound images much better and the mids and highs are much more crisp without all that muddy bass. A huge improvement for $9.00. I want to get in there with a real time analyzer soon and finish it up. The factory sub sounds much better now.

Mountain Boy...I'd like to also do this mod since I'm an audiophile with a normal stock stereo system for the first time ever....  I just want mine to sound better without adding a sub, etc.

 

Would you be able to take some photos of exactly where you spliced into the wires?

Posted
On 3/1/2020 at 6:23 PM, Codeman00 said:

Mountain Boy...I'd like to also do this mod since I'm an audiophile with a normal stock stereo system for the first time ever....  I just want mine to sound better without adding a sub, etc.

 

Would you be able to take some photos of exactly where you spliced into the wires?

I would love some photos as well. 

 

I have the kicker installed in the bass from the doors is not good. 

  • 9 months later...
Posted

It would’ve been easier and better for Bose to put a 10inch sub on the rear rather than trying to amplify the bass on the door speakers and engineering and enclosure for the 5 1/2inch sub on the console. That itself would get rid of the door rattles. They should add more speakers to the trucks, like I’m skeptical on why only 7 speakers when the ram offers 19! It’s be bad ass if they could use centerpoint and those fancy technologies in the trucks rather than only in the cars. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • How many miles were on the truck when you bought it and was there some form of oil change history generated through a dealer or an independent shop although not much would show up if the owner had changed their own oil. Just curious if it was a maintenance issue or if there was something off from the start, surely one would think the original owner would have realized it was using a lot of oil, its hard to go back in time and find out the true story of mysteries like this. Well hopefully the warranty company will go for it and just install a new engine, that would be the ideal outcome.    I still have so few miles on my truck as per not quite 9000 and will be changing the oil shortly which has around 2700 miles on it or so and its down so little on the dipstick from where it was at the beginning of this oil change that I could make the "claim" that it uses no oil but in reality would be a very small amount, less than a 1/16 of an inch. Just driving empty/not towing and easy driving so hard to say what it would do if it had a load behind it for oil consumption. So far very impressed with the very minimal oil usage. 
    • I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...