Jump to content

Necessary minimum tire pressure

Ben Dover
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ben Dover New Member

Ben Dover

Posted
Posted

I’m new here. First post so forgive me if it’s in the wrong thread. 
I’ve got a 2019 Silverado 2500 W/T which is basically my daily driver, and the first HD truck I’ve owned. The recommended tire pressure is an insane 60psi front, and 80psi in the back (80 being the max for the tire). I understand the need for this when towing/hauling, but with the HD suspension on top of that, it makes for a pretty rough ride. My question is how much can I soften up the tires when driving with no load, without causing any handling problems, or any other potential unknown issues from lowering the tire pressure?  Any help appreciated.  Thanks

 

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

At my previous job we used to put the pressures are 50 front and 65 for the rear on the 3/4 and 1 tons if the person wasn't towing.

 

I don't remember what the min pressure needs to be to keep the tire pressure light off on the dash though.

  • Like 1
r1byker Enthusiast

r1byker

Posted
Posted

Empty, I run low 60's front and rear.  I've experimented a lot with different pressure from as low as 55 in the front to up to 70 in the rear and there seems to be pretty good wear as long as I stay in the mid-60's.  Towing, I'll up the rear to 70, which is close to recommended pressure of 72 for my year.

 

  • Like 1
i82much Enthusiast

i82much

Posted
Posted

i have a 2016 WT crew gasser and I run 55 up front, 50 rear.  Rides pretty decent that way.  TPMS stays on which is annoying, and dealer says they can’t change the tire warning threshold.  So there’s that, but otherwise it is fine.  Tires last a reasonable amount of time.

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

My 2018 2500 called for 60F and 70R

 

Some dealers will reprogram the pressures in the TPMS.  May not be true for all vehicles, but it is for the HD's -- I watched mine done. They used the laptop, connected to the truck wirelessly, and it only took a couple minutes.

 

I had the tpms set to 50F 50 R (whatever tpms numbers are programmed as 'recommended' pressure will show in the mylink app...)

 

For unloaded and not towing I set cold pressures to 55F 50-52R 

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Ben Dover New Member

Ben Dover

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I’ve dropped to 50F and 60R. Weird thing is, it didn’t set my TPMS off for a few days. My understanding is that if it falls below 75% of the recommended pressure, it sets it off. Thing is, I left it at 61 or 60 so with the cold weather drops it wouldn’t do that. It has dropped below that, but I’ve noticed even now, when it hits 61 or 62+, the light still stays on... wtf?

Ben Dover New Member

Ben Dover

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay, so I’m not sure what’s up with this site, but there doesn’t seem to be any category I could find for 2019, 2500’s. So since you guys have been extremely cool in helping me so far (thanks).. I got another question: I bought the OEM, color matched splash guards. I noticed there’s a real problem with the way they described the bottom screw on the rear guards. Either they expect you to secure it only to the the existing molding (which hangs down), or something’s wrong. I don’t see how that’s going to fasten it tight against the panel. 

Also, whaddya think about using a color safe (paint safe) caulk to seal up the cracks between the guard and the fender? Just to make it look nice? 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, Ben Dover said:

Okay, so I’m not sure what’s up with this site, but there doesn’t seem to be any category I could find for 2019, 2500’s. So since you guys have been extremely cool in helping me so far (thanks).. I got another question: I bought the OEM, color matched splash guards. I noticed there’s a real problem with the way they described the bottom screw on the rear guards. Either they expect you to secure it only to the the existing molding (which hangs down), or something’s wrong. I don’t see how that’s going to fasten it tight against the panel. 

Also, whaddya think about using a color safe (paint safe) caulk to seal up the cracks between the guard and the fender? Just to make it look nice? 

Both 2500 and 3500 are considered to be HD's.  (as opposed to 1500's which use lighter frames/axles/suspensions/brakes/powertrain etc.

 

All 2019 2500's have the L5P 6.6L diesel or the LC8 6.0L gas...so...

 

Anyway, the reason it's listed as 2015 to 2019 is they have the same body style, even though there were engine/hood changes. 

 

 

Maybe someone else has splash guard installation info.

Edited by redwngr
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
On 1/3/2021 at 2:59 AM, Ben Dover said:

Okay, so I’m not sure what’s up with this site, but there doesn’t seem to be any category I could find for 2019, 2500’s. So since you guys have been extremely cool in helping me so far (thanks).. I got another question: I bought the OEM, color matched splash guards. I noticed there’s a real problem with the way they described the bottom screw on the rear guards. Either they expect you to secure it only to the the existing molding (which hangs down), or something’s wrong. I don’t see how that’s going to fasten it tight against the panel. 

Also, whaddya think about using a color safe (paint safe) caulk to seal up the cracks between the guard and the fender? Just to make it look nice? 

 

Did you drill and install the two nuts and screws in addition to the two lower re-used fasteners?  Did you also stick the tape on?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
crhoades68 New Member

crhoades68

Posted
Posted

I know this is a bit late but just purchased a used 2016 GMC 2500 Base Reg Cab.  The fronts were at 58 but the rears were at 55/53 and I got the TPMS warnings for the rear tires.  I increased the rears to 58 and no longer get the TPMS warnings.  Also, I now receive the trailer connection messages.

  • 3 months later...
gmacecsko Enthusiast

gmacecsko

Posted
Posted

I have a 2018 Denali dually. I went to the Michelin site ,the lowest recommended pressure for my tires is 35lb. That is what is run when not towing or loaded. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...