Jump to content

Semi floating rear axle

Tech Machine-Tool-Repair
 Share

Recommended Posts

Tech Machine-Tool-Repair Enthusiast

Tech Machine-Tool-Repair

Posted
Posted (edited)

DCF689E8-4CB4-4D2F-A582-F233AB77A074.thumb.jpeg.c6fd0cfdb695e4dad7e4fcfb356827fa.jpegHello guys & lady mechanics, 

I’m in the process of replacing my rear disc brakes, it has 4Wheel anti loc disc brakes. I have the rear rotors with the interior surface for the parking brake shoes. I have new rear backing plates and hardware. But I noticed a little bit of a runout in the axles, I’m assuming it’s normal bearing wear. It has 175,000 miles on it. Plus the brake lines rusted and caused a pedal to the floor issue for me, so I replaced every single brake line with all new stainless steel lines, and new brake hoses. It has new rotors and pads upfront. What I’m trying to find out, since it’s a 14 Bolt GM differential in the rear, what exactly do I have???

 

1) Is it a 9 1/2 inch ring gear, 14 bolt rear end, or is it a 10 1/2 inch ring gear 14 bolt rear end? Where can I find this out. I need to order bearings and seals, and a pinion seal which is leaking.

which is my next question,

2) how do I determine what size my pinion seal is before I order one? 

O’Reilly shows 8 options 🤣

 

3) Last question is, I’m assuming I’m going to have to pull the cover, remove the locking pin for the limited slip differential, and push the axle in, pull the retaining clip, and pull the entire axle out to get to the seals and bearings, correct? 
 

My plan is to put a new B&M aluminum

differential cover and fresh fluid once this is all done…

 

Lastly I wish I would’ve found this side or search prior to doing my brakes, I would’ve found out that GM was offering half off To replace all new brake lines for $500. It’s done now though. 
 

Happy holidays you’ll

Dave 

5E47E1C7-05BB-431E-B600-EE34D795C201.jpeg

Edited by Tech Machine-Tool-Repair
Misspelled words
CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

A 10.5 would be a full floater where you can remove the axles without even touching the rear diff.

 

To remove the axles on a 9.5 you just have to remove the cover and the pin on the differential. Then push the axles in to let the c-clips fall out.

 

 

  • Like 1
swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Tech Machine-Tool-Repair said:

DCF689E8-4CB4-4D2F-A582-F233AB77A074.thumb.jpeg.c6fd0cfdb695e4dad7e4fcfb356827fa.jpegHello guys & lady mechanics, 

I’m in the process of replacing my rear disc brakes, it has 4Wheel anti loc disc brakes. I have the rear rotors with the interior surface for the parking brake shoes. I have new rear backing plates and hardware. But I noticed a little bit of a runout in the axles, I’m assuming it’s normal bearing wear. It has 175,000 miles on it. Plus the brake lines rusted and caused a pedal to the floor issue for me, so I replaced every single brake line with all new stainless steel lines, and new brake hoses. It has new rotors and pads upfront. What I’m trying to find out, since it’s a 14 Bolt GM differential in the rear, what exactly do I have???

 

1) Is it a 9 1/2 inch ring gear, 14 bolt rear end, or is it a 10 1/2 inch ring gear 14 bolt rear end? Where can I find this out. I need to order bearings and seals, and a pinion seal which is leaking.

which is my next question,

2) how do I determine what size my pinion seal is before I order one? 

O’Reilly shows 8 options 🤣

 

3) Last question is, I’m assuming I’m going to have to pull the cover, remove the locking pin for the limited slip differential, and push the axle in, pull the retaining clip, and pull the entire axle out to get to the seals and bearings, correct? 
 

My plan is to put a new B&M aluminum

differential cover and fresh fluid once this is all done…

 

Lastly I wish I would’ve found this side or search prior to doing my brakes, I would’ve found out that GM was offering half off To replace all new brake lines for $500. It’s done now though. 
 

Happy holidays you’ll

Dave 

5E47E1C7-05BB-431E-B600-EE34D795C201.jpeg

Looks like you have a 10.5" full floater according to the blurry picture.  Like Cam says, no need to go inside the pull the shafts.  2500s in that generation didn't run the 14-bolt 9.5" semi-floater.

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, swathdiver said:

Looks like you have a 10.5" full floater according to the blurry picture.  Like Cam says, no need to go inside the pull the shafts.  2500s in that generation didn't run the 14-bolt 9.5" semi-floater.

Yes they did. Tons or 2000+ trucks ran the 9.5 semi float rear axle in the 2500's.

 

His trucks looks like a light duty 2500 as well and not a HD, so my bet is that it's a 9.5 rear axle.

 

His axle would look like this once the lug nut cover was off.

 

screenshot_20180407_212958_9ef7235a2a355

  • Like 1
Tech Machine-Tool-Repair Enthusiast

Tech Machine-Tool-Repair

Posted
  • Author
Posted
17 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

Yes they did. Tons or 2000+ trucks ran the 9.5 semi float rear axle in the 2500's.

 

His trucks looks like a light duty 2500 as well and not a HD, so my bet is that it's a 9.5 rear axle.

 

His axle would look like this once the lug nut cover was off.

 

screenshot_20180407_212958_9ef7235a2a355

Yes that’s exactly what it looks like, it does not have the bolts that you can take the hub off at the end of the axle. 
 

This was a very early 2000 new body style Silverado, standard 2500 4x4, & not the HD model. He bought it new in April 2000, and they only had three door extended cabs around here then.

He only put 1900 miles on it, he said he really liked the truck, he had a stroke and died over memorial day weekend. 
 

so how do I know what size pinion shaft I have? So I can order the front pinion seal for it… Am I gonna get to take out a caliper and measure

  • Like 1
swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
27 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

Yes they did. Tons or 2000+ trucks ran the 9.5 semi float rear axle in the 2500's.

 

His trucks looks like a light duty 2500 as well and not a HD, so my bet is that it's a 9.5 rear axle.

 

His axle would look like this once the lug nut cover was off.

 

screenshot_20180407_212958_9ef7235a2a355

Thanks, I didn't know there were two different 2500s.  I knew about the heavy half tons, boy they had a lot of options back then.  I've got one on my work bench too, with 6 lug axles.

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

I'd just buy both seals and return the one you don't need.

 

I rarely buy parts like these online because it's a pain in the neck if you are missing something or order the wrong part.

  • Like 1
Tech Machine-Tool-Repair Enthusiast

Tech Machine-Tool-Repair

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I was thinking of doing the same thing. Get them from O’Reilly auto parts. Lotta stuff I buy from them has a lifetime warranty.
 

Thanks for the help you guys! 

 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...