Jump to content

Disable AFM without Tuning

Range Technology

Recommended Posts

BlackZ71Silverado Senior Enthusiast

BlackZ71Silverado

Posted
Posted

Yes. We're selling it right now. $199.

 

 

We're anti-tune now too. :)

 

Adam

 

Anti-Tune??

Doesn't your product "tune" (AKA: optimized, not running on factory parameters) the OEM configuration to keep AFM active longer???? :banghead: No matter how you word it, the devices you sell do in fact tune the vehicle.

  • Replies 215
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Range Technology Enthusiast

Range Technology

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Anti-Tune??

Doesn't your product "tune" (AKA: optimized, not running on factory parameters) the OEM configuration to keep AFM active longer???? :banghead: No matter how you word it, the devices you sell do in fact tune the vehicle.

 

Black:

I just responded to another post by you - but I'll write it here as well. This product does not tune your vehicle. We do not write over the factory calibration (which is what all of the tuner companies do). We send messages over the CAN BUS that direct the operation of the AFM system. No one has ever done this before.

 

When Ken & I were at Edge Products, we experimented with this functionality with nitrous controllers. When we left there - we hooked up with one of the engineers who pioneered cylinder deactivation. Through a combination of these talents - we were able to develop a technology that did not overwrite the factory calibration and leaves no footprint for dealers.

 

After dealing with voided warranties my entire career - I specifically wanted to avoid tuning. That is why we started Range.

 

Best,

Adam

CKNSLS Enthusiast

CKNSLS

Posted
Posted

As with everything-someone comes along and builds a better mousetrap. Probably 90% of those who buy a "tune" do it to disable the AFM. Now, Adam has developed a product that doesn't overwrite the software, or leaves a foot print on the ECM.

 

I see those who have already bought a tune defending their purchase, and that's OK. But if this Range device does indeed work as promised, that is disables the AFM and is undetectable, then it's a wake up call for the "tuners".

 

That's what competition is all about.

 

Some Tuners claim not to leave a footprint-but others have stated GM can tell when the "last event" was on your ECM.

 

It';s far too costly to fight GM over a voided warranty issue.

 

Adam, I am interested in hearing from you if IYHO if GM can tell an "event" took place even if the factory tune was reinstalled before taking your truck in to the dealer for any issues.

Range Technology Enthusiast

Range Technology

Posted
  • Author
Posted

CKNSLS:

Great question. Here is the deal. On their factory scan tool - dealers can see that the vehicle has been reflashed, even if it has been returned to stock. With some manufacturers - they can see if the vehicle has been flashed with a calibration that does not match the factory code. With the Range product - there is no reflashing, or "event" in your words. We discovered a way to talk to the AFM system without reprogramming.

 

Not necessarily a better mousetrap if you want the features of a tuner - but f you just want to turn off AFM, no doubt.

 

Adam

BlackZ71Silverado Senior Enthusiast

BlackZ71Silverado

Posted
Posted

Put the money towards a real tune... imho.

I agree with you 100% BUT.......this thing is designed for people who bought a V8 and are disappointed that they don't get 30mpg. Now buyers remorse kicks in because they can't afford rising fuel prices, and they realize they should have bought a car and will do anything to increase MPG's to include keeping half the engine shut down longer (still not a good idea IMO but never liked the idea of afm from day 1)

 

Though it is a good idea for those guys, a tune is the best of both worlds. The thing with that is people believe the "warranty void" scare tactics they hear or read about. Unkonwn to many, there are laws specifically designed to protect us the consumer from such nonsence.

 

This Range, programmer I guess you can call it may work for people but not for those of us that actually use our trucks for trucks.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone4S

using Tapatalk

Gurrzt Enthusiast

Gurrzt

Posted
Posted

Another vote for the dyno tune, most vehicles from the manufacturer have the a/f ratio set way to lean, to help achive maximum gas milage (mpg).

 

My proof? my 2013 Yukon denali does not have ANY light carbon residue in the tailpipe, my 2001 Z28 (Sara (which has been dyno tuned) ) had a stock a/f ratio of 15.4 @ wot, and 15 @ idle. The dyno tuner adjusted it to 14.0 @ idle, and 13.5 @ wot. After driving Sara all day, I have a very light carbon deposit in her tailpipes.

 

The Range gentlemen has his opinion, as do I, I personally will not use a "plug and pray unit" on any of my vehicles.

JrocK817 Enthusiast

JrocK817

Posted
Posted

Hmmm interesting... I absolutely hate AFM and usually put my truck in manual 5 in "City" traffic. Keeps the AFM from kicking in. A tune is out of the question because of my warranty. Once that is up ill be the first in line for a BB tune or something similar but in the meantime, this might be worth it.

 

Need any test subjects for a non bias review?? haha

RVJ Enthusiast

RVJ

Posted
Posted

I've always hated the AFM but have never trusted GM to fulfill their warranty obligations so I've always avoided a tune. I didn't buy the truck to race, save gas, pull a house or spin the tires so I don't have a problem with the functions of the drivetrain except I hate the AFM.This sounds like the cats meow for what I want.

Is there anything that can go wrong if I over ride the AFM?

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

It is my understanding that with the range you aren't doing anything different than you do when driving around in M5, which is harmless. I've done just that since the time I test drove my truck, before I even owned it. :lol:

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Range Technology Enthusiast

Range Technology

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've always hated the AFM but have never trusted GM to fulfill their warranty obligations so I've always avoided a tune. I didn't buy the truck to race, save gas, pull a house or spin the tires so I don't have a problem with the functions of the drivetrain except I hate the AFM.This sounds like the cats meow for what I want.

Is there anything that can go wrong if I over ride the AFM?

 

RVJ:

The truck runs exactly like stock. We don't alter the operating conditions at all. We have a 90 day unconditional money back guarantee. Give it a try.

 

I drive the V8 version every day now - but I'm biased... :)

RVJ Enthusiast

RVJ

Posted
Posted

If I unplugged the Range and took the truck in for service would the dealer or the dealers computer know that my truck had been running in V8 mode only and not switching back and forth between 4 and 8 cylinder mode?

I found it on sale at Amazon, is that the best way to buy it or are there any group sales on it?

Range Technology Enthusiast

Range Technology

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There is no "trace" left behind. Once you unplug the device - it is gone.

 

I'm all for a group buy. If you guys buy 10 - I'll give everyone $15 off.

 

Adam

CKNSLS Enthusiast

CKNSLS

Posted
Posted


To those who hink a tune is a better idea

 

BlackZ71 - I bought my truck and as I have used my truck as a truck, AND I will say I probably have done so more than you and many on this board. I am currently on a trip across the U.S. towing a 29Foot travel trailer that weighs 5,000 pounds. 3,000 towing miles so far-5,000 solo "touring miles". (2011-5.3 Crew Cab)

 

The refinement of the transmission and AFM on these trucks are below par. They clunk, hesitate, and make all manners of strange moans and groans. The AFM takes a proven motor the 5.3 and makes it terrible.

 

The Mag-Moss act is to make all you who have a tune sleep better at night. Go over to the Ford forums and read how Ford is denying fuel pump coverage on their diesels THAT ARE UNDER FACTORY WARRANTY.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-4-motor-problems/131047-6-4-cam-gear-high-pressure-fuel-pump-gear-stripped.html

 

I don't own one of Adam's boxes yet, because I don't want to change anything while on this trip. Since I live not too far from Park City, I will probably purchase one of his "black boxes" upon my return to the Salt Lake Valley in August.

 

GM can tell when changes are made, even if it is to change backto the "factory tune".

 

I will purcahse the box that keeps it in 8cyl mode and makes the 5.3 behave as a V8 should.

BlackZ71Silverado Senior Enthusiast

BlackZ71Silverado

Posted
Posted

Well I hope it works out for you. Still won't do anything for your transmission though. Going to be sloppy with that thing plugged in. It should keep the annoying in and out afm crap under control. Should be better for you when towing. Keep us posted.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone4S

using Tapatalk

RVJ Enthusiast

RVJ

Posted
Posted

All right, sign me up for one. I'm ready to buy now.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...