Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I really don't have a clue on what it could be all I know is that this Thursday my truck is going to get out of the dealer and I will find out if a new drive shaft did the job, Have to wait and see I'll let you know if that fixes it.

Posted

I have the 20" Texas Edition wheels as well. I don't think mine has anything to do with the wheels since I just had them rotated and the vibration is still exactly the same. I will hopefully know more on Wednesday when I take my truck in to have them look at it and see if they can pinpoint where the source is coming from.

Posted

And now it's on the back of a wrecker headed back to the dealer. Surging won't get over 30 mph. This has been one hell of a new vehicle experience.

Oh no! I am truly sorry to learn that your vehicle is headed back into the dealership. I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me including a brief overview of your concern, contact information, VIN, exact mileage, and preferred dealership?

 

Sincerely,

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care

Posted

Silver Spaceship - does the vibration feel like rumble strips for about a second? Thats what mine was/is doing. Symptoms sound very much the same. I also experienced a slip between 2nd & 3rd gears as the truck was accelerating. My truck spent 2 weeks with the dealer as they couldn't figure out the issue. They experienced the same vibration & slip, so there was no denying it existed. No error codes were present. They eventually called in a field engineer who determined the torque converter was out of balance. Their solution was to replace the torque converter. Had it back for 5 days, and it is starting the vibration & slip issue all over again.

Posted

I really think it is the prop shaft for a couple of reasons:

1 Rotating tires does nothing

2 Vibration is inconsistent

3 Weight is a factor

4 Speed is a factor

5 Changing the drive shaft apparently does nothing

6 Changing the torque converter apparently does nothing.

 

 

There are a couple of things that can change the angle at the rear end. The amount of torque being applied, weight in the truck (gas, passengers, payload), terrain, and trailering. Until the angle at both ends of the drive shaft are always identical there will be a vibration. Mine was so bad I changed my trailer tires in a parking lot because I thought they were flat spotted.

Posted

Silver Spaceship - does the vibration feel like rumble strips for about a second? Thats what mine was/is doing. Symptoms sound very much the same. I also experienced a slip between 2nd & 3rd gears as the truck was accelerating. My truck spent 2 weeks with the dealer as they couldn't figure out the issue. They experienced the same vibration & slip, so there was no denying it existed. No error codes were present. They eventually called in a field engineer who determined the torque converter was out of balance. Their solution was to replace the torque converter. Had it back for 5 days, and it is starting the vibration & slip issue all over again.

Hey there,

 

I am truly sorry to hear that you are continuing to experience a vehicle issue after a visit at the dealership. I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me including a brief overview of your concern, contact information, VIN, exact mileage, and preferred dealership?

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care

Posted

I have 20's goodyear on my 2014 LTZ 4wd. Vibration is terrible. Cant stand it. 1st time dealer said the tires were not perfectly round and replaced 3 of them. This didnt fix the problem. 2nd time at dealer and replacing the 4th tire. Not fixed! I spent alot of money for a truck that shakes between 50 and 80 mph. Very upset with the quality.

  • Like 1
Posted

Got a call from the dealer today and they said that their technicians also confirmed the vibration as I described it. They had to call their regional tech and he suggested three possible things that it could be. The easiest of them was to re-time the drive shaft. I forgot the third thing that they mentioned but the other was to have the drive shaft balance checked. So, they took it off, checked for any manufacturing defects and/or damage (found none), turned it 180o and put it back on. They said that they took the truck out and test drove it and that they did not feel any vibration after. So maybe it is just an alignment issue causing all the vibrations. I won't know until tomorrow since they still have the truck. I will let y'all know when I get it back if this fixed the issue or not. I will be making a trip this weekend, so I will be able to fully test it out. I'll keep y'all updated.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Still could be the tires. I had vibration problems and it has always been the tires or drive shaft. If dealer cannot get it done, I would find a good drive shaft shop in your area. Have them check the shaft. If not a fix then I would go to the tires next. Even a road force balance is not always reliable. If at all possible, find a shop that knows how to true tires AND high speed balance on the truck using a strobe.

 

The truing and on truck high speed balance has corrected vibration problems for me. And this is even with Michelins. It is the only way I will balance a tire. We have had the road force from Discount when putting on new tires. Not good on large truck tires. True and balance on the truck and all is like glass at all speeds.

 

If in the San Antonio area, PM me and I will give you the only know shop here. Oh, heck it is Southwest brake and alignment.

Edited by STex
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I

have 20's goodyear on my 2014 LTZ 4wd. Vibration is terrible. Cant

stand it. 1st time dealer said the tires were not perfectly round and

replaced 3 of them. This didnt fix the problem. 2nd time at dealer and

replacing the 4th tire. Not fixed! I spent alot of money for a truck

that shakes between 50 and 80 mph. Very upset with the quality.

 

Hello joeocean,

 

I am sorry to hear that you are

experiencing this vibration on your vehicle as well. I also apologize that

replacing the tired like the dealership has tried has not addressed the issue.

Could you private message us your name, contact info, VIN, mileage, and dealership

you are working with so we can look further into this situation for you? Thank

you very much for your time.

 

Gregory W. (Assisting Jennifer)

GM Customer Care

 

 

 

Edited by GM Customer Service
  • Like 1
Posted

The drive shaft re-time did not fix the problem. It still vibrates exactly the same as before.

 

I talked with the service tech and he seems to think that it is road vibrations that I am feeling. I will have to talk with them next week and see what else they can do.

 

I still think that it has something to do with the rear axle. The amplitude of the vibration changes only when I turn and remains constant at whatever level it reached in the turn while driving straight. So sometimes it is really bad and sometimes it is barely there at all but it never totally goes away.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Evan Williams Bottled in Bond   So pouring the last of a bottle of Evan Williams Black label last night I set off the the state store for a refill only to be denied the by an empty shelf. Rats.    What the did have was a bottle of Evan Williams Bottled in Bond. 100 proof. Hum, a few bucks more but a known distiller. Lets have a swing at it. ( I have before )    Cracked it open and pour a serving over ice. Hum.... more heat, yes. More alcohol naturally. But the barreling not the proof brings the taste and this one came up short.    Oh is was familiar but the heat ran the barrel over like a Peterbilt runs over a squirrel. Could use a heavier toasting of the oak me thinks or perhaps a longer barreling. Who knows. But what I can say is ice or a water back isn't the answer. What kills one kills them both. Sad. It is a pleasant drink....if you have little to compare it to.  
    • I've had exactly one set of Bridgestone. Lasted five year and 125,000 miles and had I known better 15oK would have been a cake walk. I would have bought a like set had they not tripled in price since the first set. I removed them at said mileage with 5/32" remaining in dead even wear all four. They were fuel efficient, quite, comfortable and predictable.    Early on I got a very good alignment checked at least once a year, sometimes twice; kept the tires properly inflated, balanced and rotated. And I've found that many a tire issue can be avoided with great maintenance practices. Lot's of tire dealers will do rotation and balance (simple) for free for as long as you own the tire they sold you so no excuse not to.    Bead prep, alloy integrity and stem health have a huge impact on inflation stability. There are more mountings done poorly that perfectly. Finding a good tire guy is gold and as important as finding a tire you like.    That 3X price increase now two sets of "other tires' later is starting look like a bargain.      Bad maintenance kills more tires than bad tires. 
    • Atlas, you kill me As aggravating as a project like this can be you have been unable to hide your fascination with learning and using that angst against this beast like a Ninjitsu Master. It amuses you, admit it now.      BTW, love your writing style. 😉       
    • I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...