Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, my days as a GM owner are officially done. I was shaking my head on the way to the dealership or maybe it was just the vibration :nopity: . I traded my truck for a 2016 Ford F150 Lariat 4WD Crew Cab with 6.5' box. I tried, but no more GM's in my lifetime.

 

-1995 Chevrolet Silverado 2WD - It started bucking and jerky randomly when warm. The mechanics could not find anything wrong after 6-10 visits. I was already outside the 3/36 and 5 year period (73,000 miles). Service manager told me to trade it on a good day which I did the next week.

-2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 4WD 6.0L gas - Lemon lawed at the 3 year point. I started the process at about 2 1/2 years.

-2015 GMC Sierra 1500 4WD - Traded

I will check back on a more infrequent basis, but wanted to get ahead of the AutoGuide article assuming it affects resale values.

  • Like 1
Posted

point blank the problem is frame/body intensifies all the little imperfection. I am a GM employee and they warned us before the trucks even hit the road about the vibration. I should have listened but thought it couldn't be that bad. Boy was I wrong.

Posted

I thought I was lucky when, last year, the dealer balance my tires and my 2014 Sierra SLT stopped shaking. Recently it began again but in the 75-80mph range (18k on the odo). The dealer's mechanic says he cannot reproduce my concern and the dealer says they won't operate the vehicle at that speed. Take any Turnpike or Parkway in New Jersey and 70-75mph is the speed traffic is moving (65 mph speed limit). So unless you want to be the obstruction, you match traffic's speed. Do you think a call to GM customer care would even help?

Posted

My 70-80MPH vibration is eliminated now, after I tightened the factory U bolts on the leaf springs to 80 ft-lbs and the dealer did a road force balance. The U bolts made about 75% improvement and the rebalance took care of the remainder. Now it is smooth and vibration free. I've put about 500 miles on it and it seems to be holding up. Fingers crossed it doesn't come back.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Went to my new servicing dealer today and took the shop foreman for a ride and discussed all of the issues with the truck... Guess What... HE AGREED WITH ME!!!!!

 

He even admitted that they currently have a few other pick-ups there for the exact same problems and that he has personally helped a good number of other people fight to get a buy back. He and I discussed all of the different scenarios make the vibration worse such as going around a curve, up a hill, temperature differences etc. We also discussed different parts and what we believe the root cause to be, he actually said that he believes that the frames on the trucks are not 100% true, and that the truck is fighting the frame while driving, in addition to the stiffer frame and changed material for the mounts causing all of the resonances to be transferred into the vehicle, he actually called the truck a "tuning fork" lol.

 

According to him, I definitely have the T1 Vibe, possibly a T3 and Prop... hopefully I am remembering this right... I was also able to get him to listen to the issues I have with my radio as well, again he agreed that the radio definitely has problems. However he said hes NEVER seen, let alone heard of the problem I have, where it will randomly lose all of the highs in the audio and fade, the only issue he has seen was with the reception and HD Tuning, and my truck doesn't have HD.

 

Anyway, they are going to call me when they get a loaner vehicle back, to so they can schedule it for me, they will be taking my truck in either this Monday, or next Monday, I am also going to bring my 18" wheels with me so they can run the Picoscope on those aswell, even though I have had every intention of switching the tire to something that is better for A/T... yes I am still arguing with them about paying for and not receiving A/T tires...

 

Now the kicker for anyone with a '14... The foreman told me that when GM ordered the rear ends from American Axle, it was a late order, so AA started just cranking them with little quality control, he then went on to say that they never changed the tool kits when manufacturing them... the tolerances turned to sh*t, and the more they produced, the worse they got... So anyone with a '14.... that could be part of your problem, he was telling me about one truck they had , it registered 56 on the Pico, GM somehow determined that 22 was the threshold. they overhauled the original rear end, then ended up replacing the entire assembly. They obviously did not fix that truck and it was one of the buy backs that he helped with.

 

I asked him if he knew how GM came up with the 22 spec for the reading on the Pico, because that is still a felt vibration, and quite honestly for the amount that we pay for these trucks, any vibration like this is bullsh*t. he said he didn't know where GM came up with that spec, but agreed that if he was a consumer and had purchased one, he'd feel the same way.

Edited by Jesse D
  • Like 2
Posted

Went to my new servicing dealer today (xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) and took the shop foreman for a ride and discussed all of the issues with the truck... Guess What... HE AGREED WITH ME!!!!!

With all the negative talk about GM your dealer agreed to, his business sounds pretty tight so stick with him. But you may want to go back to your post and delete his dealership name, GM might just give him a call.

  • Like 1
Posted

With all the negative talk about GM your dealer agreed to, his business sounds pretty tight so stick with him. But you may want to go back to your post and delete his dealership name, GM might just give him a call.

good call, thank you

Posted

Well, my days as a GM owner are officially done. I was shaking my head on the way to the dealership or maybe it was just the vibration :nopity: . I traded my truck for a 2016 Ford F150 Lariat 4WD Crew Cab with 6.5' box. I tried, but no more GM's in my lifetime.

 

-1995 Chevrolet Silverado 2WD - It started bucking and jerky randomly when warm. The mechanics could not find anything wrong after 6-10 visits. I was already outside the 3/36 and 5 year period (73,000 miles). Service manager told me to trade it on a good day which I did the next week.

-2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 4WD 6.0L gas - Lemon lawed at the 3 year point. I started the process at about 2 1/2 years.

-2015 GMC Sierra 1500 4WD - Traded

I will check back on a more infrequent basis, but wanted to get ahead of the AutoGuide article assuming it affects resale values.

 

How bad of a beating did you take? My second buy back truck is ordered and I'm thinking of driving it straight to the Ford dealer as soon as it comes in. I had one Ford dealer tell me he really wasn't interested in my first buy back.

Posted

How bad of a beating did you take? My second buy back truck is ordered and I'm thinking of driving it straight to the Ford dealer as soon as it comes in. I had one Ford dealer tell me he really wasn't interested in my first buy back]

 

I went from a 2014 taken back by GM to a 2016 and can't believe the improvement. Almost everything works better on the 16. The engine is much more responsive, no clunk, home link has longer range, seats tight, paint great.... I could go on but it's just much better including fit and finish.

My only issues are minor except-I had a scare when I noticed rough roads at about 80 gave my truck the shakes. Turned out it was from the spring U bolts not torqued to spec, 40 vs 78. My Android Auto was acting up but has been solid since the recent phone update of AA. I'm down to one minor issue-some wind noise from driver side. I can see that the door is slightly out from the body so maybe just need to move the door latch in a tad. I'll let the dealer take that one.

If your new truck is anything like mine you won't want to trade.

Posted

Any experiencing the vibrations on 2016s? Can't imagine they changed much on that model year?

Posted

My 14 was flawless, zero issues, traded it last may for a 15 Sil. vib in it was bad, put tires on it in Sept, balances, rotated driveshaft, no change. In Dec they buy backed me into a 15 Sierra, same vib but not as bad as the Sil. In Jan I ordered a 16 Sierra which I'm waiting for. People are still getting the vib with 16's and after a year of this I'm about at the point of washing my hands of GM and moving on. I've known my dealer my whole life and he has really stepped up for me, that's the problem for me.

  • Like 1
Posted

My 14 was flawless, zero issues, traded it last may for a 15 Sil. vib in it was bad, put tires on it in Sept, balances, rotated driveshaft, no change. In Dec they buy backed me into a 15 Sierra, same vib but not as bad as the Sil. In Jan I ordered a 16 Sierra which I'm waiting for. People are still getting the vib with 16's and after a year of this I'm about at the point of washing my hands of GM and moving on. I've known my dealer my whole life and he has really stepped up for me, that's the problem for me.

Yeah..my 16 shakes from 72-75 and up. Pretty unhappy about it. Under 70 it is super smooth. Wheels have been balanced twice. I don't think it's a wheel thing because it seems to change in intensity and location every time I drive.

 

Sometimes it's in the steering wheel at 74 mph. Sometimes the seats are shaking at 75. Sometime it's the whole truck. Really odd. It seems to have gotten worse. Just hit 3k miles.

 

I'm going to ask for a road force balance and hopefully it'll be better.

 

Pretty sure the GY SRA'S are crap. But then again, I'm pretty sure it's in the drive line.

 

Man...38 years buying Japanese vehicles with little or no issues.

 

Really shot myself in the foot here buying American. Between the clunky transmission, the shuttery shifts, the tin can exhaust, the whining tires, and high speed vibrations, this is not a pleasurable vehicle to own.

 

This may be my worst ownership experience. Too bad it's such a great looking truck. I thought the Tundra was butt ugly. I guess I'll take ugly and smooth over pretty and shitty.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
paxtonman, on 02 Apr 2016 - 5:29 PM, said:

 

How bad of a beating did you take? My second buy back truck is ordered and I'm thinking of driving it straight to the Ford dealer as soon as it comes in. I had one Ford dealer tell me he really wasn't interested in my first buy back.

Not as bad as I expected.... my GMC truck stickered by 54800, purchased for 43800 through a military buying program, traded for 38500 after a year and 9400 miles. The new Ford stickered for 61200, bought for 52500, but it has every possible bell and whistle that the GMC was missing despite having every package option installed.

 

38500 trade was the high end per KBB for my truck, so I couldn't have expected more. The most important thing is that Washington state has a 9.2% sales tax on new vehicles. I needed to sell the truck for 42042 just to break even on the sales tax savings gained by trading. It is almost always better to trade a well kept newer vehicle in Washington versus selling it privately just due to sales tax. A $50000 truck without a trade is an additional $4600 in sales tax.

 

I can at least write off the sales tax on my federal tax return next year since Washington does not an income tax.

Edited by GMCSierra4x4
Posted

"I guess I'll take ugly and smooth over pretty and shitty.

"

 

Sounds like the makings of a good Country song to me :)

  • Like 2
Posted

"I guess I'll take ugly and smooth over pretty and shitty.

"

 

Sounds like the makings of a good Country song to me :)

lol, first time I think I actually liked a post you made

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
    • Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !.    Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...