Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ewwa44 New Member

Ewwa44

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

The Picometer measures vibration in the truck. More than likely you will get a 3rd order vibration I believe it is.

What is a 3rd order vibration? I don't understand why they can't fix this crap.

Edited by Ewwa44
  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

What is a 3rd order vibration? I don't understand why they can't fix this crap.

I'm not too familiar with the order, but here is a post from a few pages back

 

No, it can't differentiate between rim or tire from a simple Road Force measurement. But, if the operator follows the instruction in Hunters manual, it can. Step one is to mount the bare wheel (no tire) on the machine and measure the bead runout is (inner and out). This is indexed to a reference (typically the valve stem). The roller is no used, of course, but the reality is, the stiffness of the wheel in likely going to be consistency all the way around.

Next, mount the tire.

Next, measure the Road Force Variation. By then comparing the results of the combined RFV to the wheel runout, the machine can determine if the final is tire or wheel, and where the tire should be rotated to relative to the wheel to minimize the total combined.

Here is the catch....if the wheel has 0 runout, then there is absolutely no opportunity to improve the combined total. Stuck with whatever the tire produces.

As for the machine itself, the roller arm does not take any measurements. It simply applies a force to the tire to deflect/load it similar to on a vehicle going down a road. I say similar because there are two fundamental differences that even Hunetr does not talk about. First, the roller is round, whilst the road is flat. There floor, the deflection pattern of he tread will be different. Second, the tire is spinning at a much lower speed than you are driving at. How much difference does that make, of what kind of errors could that result in? Don't know.

What the machine does measure is vibration of the main shaft. It measures it in two locations along the shaft, likely beside the bearings, and knowing the various distances of the machine and the tire/wheel, it can calculate out of balance at the selected correction planes. This information can also be used for the Road Force Variation calculations, based on a known load of the roller. The RF result is expressed in LB, and from what I understand, Hunter expresses it that way to relate it to the amount of shaking force that would be generated at a reference speed with much that RFV. One could back calculate that to an equivalent static unbalance, for example, to get a better feel for it and it would be in the oz's, as we are used to seeing it.

The specs on the Hunetr are relative to doing the dynamic balancing portion, but are related to the RF, as the same sensors are doing that too.

Back to your truck, if the peak vibration is tracking 3x tire speed, then it it not a resonance. That should come and go at the specific natural frequency. Now, many resonances do have a bandwidth associated with them, because of some damping in the system - does yours start at a speed, get worse to a peak, them diminish back to very low again? If so, that could be a resonance. If it just keeps getting higher and higher in amplitude as speed increases, that is usually simple mass unbalance.

14SLTZ71 Enthusiast

14SLTZ71

Posted
Posted (edited)

OK, not trying to start an argument but I have to ask. With countless owners posting that their truck did not start vibrating until a few thousand miles after purchase, and all the owners who bought a second, even third truck only to discover that they also vibrated, and all the expense and hassle they went through, why would you a) take the risk and b) reward GM, who has known about this problem for three years, by buying another before a real permanent fix or re engineering is done? What am I missing with this blind loyalty?

 

Some people were offered trade in assistance towards the purchase of another GM truck and that's all GM would offer them. They weren't offered Buy-back and that's why some people are on their 2nd or even 3rd GM truck. When you finance and are stuck with payments sometimes you are at the mercy of the manufacture and have to take what you can get, unfortunately some of these guys keep ending up with another vibrator.

I was offered trade assistance towards a 2015 6.2L 4x4 Z71 and when it arrived it vibrated worse than my 2014. I drove 2 more on their lot, a 2015 Silverado and a 2015 GMC Sierra Denali and they both vibrated, so I gave up on GM and traded in for another brand. Lost my ass on the deal too because other dealerships are catching on that the GM trucks vibrate and they won't give you shit for trade in value.

Edited by 14LTZZ71
Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Some people were offered trade in assistance towards the purchase of another GM truck and that's all GM would offer them. They weren't offered Buy-back and that's why some people are on their 2nd or even 3rd GM truck. When you finance and are stuck with payments sometimes you are at the mercy of the manufacture and have to take what you can get, unfortunately some of these guys keep ending up with another vibrator.

I was offered trade assistance towards a 2015 6.2L 4x4 Z71 and when it arrived it vibrated worse than my 2014. I drove 2 more on their lot, a 2015 Silverado and a 2015 GMC Sierra Denali and they both vibrated, so I gave up on GM and traded in for another brand. Lost my ass on the deal too because other dealerships are catching on that the GM trucks vibrate and they won't give you shit for trade in value.

Damn right.... couple months ago when I first started getting the problems and GM wouldn't do anything I went to a few dealers, was offered 32 and 35k for it... today I was offered 27..... truck is 8mo old with 8200mi on it...MSRP was about 62k

Edited by Jesse D
pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

Damn right.... couple months ago when I first started getting the problems and GM wouldn't do anything I went to a few dealers, was offered 32 and 35k for it... today I was offered 27..... truck is 8mo old with 8200mi on it...MSRP was about 62k

Dollars or pesos?

EastCoast HD Enthusiast

EastCoast HD

Posted
Posted

Damn right.... couple months ago when I first started getting the problems and GM wouldn't do anything I went to a few dealers, was offered 32 and 35k for it... today I was offered 27..... truck is 8mo old with 8200mi on it...MSRP was about 62k

 

For an LT 4X4 Crewcab ???

  • Like 1
tnchevy Senior Enthusiast

tnchevy

Posted
Posted

My LT Z71 (probably not near as many options as Jesse's) stickered at $42,500 and I got it for about $32,000 or about 25% off sticker like many on here has. Those "good deals" are nice but they severely hurt resale value. All vehicles depreciate at least 20% right when you drive it off the lot so that would make the truck I paid $32k for be worth around $26k and when trading it in most dealers are of course going to offer me less than that but you can negotiate up some from that whatever they offer. When I was buying in late 2014 both Ford and Dodge dealerships I visited were pricing me around 20% off and if I was serious I am sure I could have got a few more percent off. IMO all of the full size trucks are way over priced and the deep discounts is just a way for the buyer to feel like they got a better deal.

  • Like 2
Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted (edited)

Dollars or pesos?

what do you think, I live in Boston MA

 

 

For an LT 4X4 Crewcab ???

yes, sticker was $46k, and I have about $13k in accessories and other options, plus a $3k 7yr b2b warranty from GM

 

EDIT: Actually that needs to go up a little, I forgot to add the cost of the spray in bedliner and the stock 18" wheels, so its really $63k with everything

My LT Z71 (probably not near as many options as Jesse's) stickered at $42,500 and I got it for about $32,000 or about 25% off sticker like many on here has. Those "good deals" are nice but they severely hurt resale value. All vehicles depreciate at least 20% right when you drive it off the lot so that would make the truck I paid $32k for be worth around $26k and when trading it in most dealers are of course going to offer me less than that but you can negotiate up some from that whatever they offer. When I was buying in late 2014 both Ford and Dodge dealerships I visited were pricing me around 20% off and if I was serious I am sure I could have got a few more percent off. IMO all of the full size trucks are way over priced and the deep discounts is just a way for the buyer to feel like they got a better deal.

completely agree with that sentiment, but even still... $27k is bull sh*t for this truck

Edited by Jesse D
tnchevy Senior Enthusiast

tnchevy

Posted
Posted

Your right, it is BS. I have to take the better halfs Jeep GC in for yet another recall in the next week or two. I might mess with a salesman and see what kind of deal they are offering for a RAM and also what they will give me for trade in.

Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

The Sales manager came over to me yesterday and point blank asked if my truck had the "Chevy Shake".... best of luck

 

I had given up trying to work with my dealer after 4 visits, but I have now decided that I am just going to keep sending it in over and over and Force GM to spend money on it until something happens. I have no doubt that it won't be fixed, but maybe they will finally get the message that I'm not going to accept this... Like I mentioned, I called and left a message with the attorney yesterday afternoon. Hope to hear some good news today, If nothing has moved forward, I'm considering filing suit on my own. I'm done with this shit.

Snoringbear Enthusiast

Snoringbear

Posted
Posted

I'm thinking that the Magnetic Ride Control feature (check out below URL) currently being offered on the Denali may be GM's solution to the vibration problem. 2016 is the second year for this feature. I'm guessing if it proves to be successful it will be rolled out to High Country, and LTZ in the next year or so. Perhaps on down to the LT as the cost drops. Anyway, seems interesting. Wish it was on my 2015 LTZ.

 

http://media.gm.com/media/us/en/gmc/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2014/Jun/0623-sierra-mrc.html

Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

I'm thinking that the Magnetic Ride Control feature (check out below URL) currently being offered on the Denali may be GM's solution to the vibration problem. 2016 is the second year for this feature. I'm guessing if it proves to be successful it will be rolled out to High Country, and LTZ in the next year or so. Perhaps on down to the LT as the cost drops. Anyway, seems interesting. Wish it was on my 2015 LTZ.

 

http://media.gm.com/media/us/en/gmc/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2014/Jun/0623-sierra-mrc.html

The Denali's still have the problem possibly just not as bad, idk but there are fewer of them on the road too. I have a few of them on my list for people who specifically asked to be part of the lawsuit

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted (edited)

what do you think, I live in Boston MA

 

 

Just trying to inject a little humor into this already sad situation. Apparently not successfully.

 

Unfortunately accessories are not worth much when it comes to trading in a vehicle.

Edited by pm26
Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

Just trying to inject a little humor into this already sad situation. Apparently not successfully.

 

Unfortunately accessories are not worth much when it comes to trading in a vehicle.

The accessories were all on at time of purchase, I literally took the truck that was in the showroom. regardless of the fact that they depreciate just as the truck does, they still have value, and when they cost the amount that I have, it is still thousands of dollars.

 

Lets just pretend that I don't have any accessories or extended warranty, my MSRP was approximately $46,000 now take out the incentives of $6,250 and you have $39,750. now lets say you take out another $3,000 for a dealer discount, that leaves $36,750. so take off 20% and your left with $29,400... which is still more than the offer. KBB which is on the low side of values says $29,370 as an average.

 

The true value is according to NADA which is what dealers use when at the auction, and what insurance companies use when a vehicle is totaled... I used to have a dealers license, so I do know this..... NADA says clean trade, which is what mine would qualify for, is $32,775.

 

Again, this is without any of my accessories or extended warranty

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      AFM Experience

      By Atlas · Posted

      When I had a Bumper subscription for a few days when I needed to run title histories on cars I was looking at, I decided to look up a few of my old/past vehicles.   My 2015 Silverado was still actively registered and it last sold in 2024 with 160k on the clock. No idea if that's on the original engine but someone's keeping it on the road or the original AFM stuff is still going.   It used 0w20. I remember feeding it Mobil 0w20 AFE for the first 30k of its life on <5k OCI's.     Edit: Just did a nationwide search on Autotrader for 2015-2025 Silverados with 5.3's and sorted by highest mileage first.   357k 352k 292k 291k 290k 277k 271k 268k 266k 259k 256k   High mileage on a modern 5.3 doesn't seem all that uncommon, but that's just searching mostly dealer ads on Autotrader. FB Marketplace has all kinds of high mileage 5.3's going back to 2007    
    • Chuck FB
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I can't say I have ever heard of someone getting that type of mileage out of a set of tires even though they rotated on a regular basis but without a doubt if the front end gets wear and those tires are no longer able to track straight it scrubs them off, and driving style and road surface make a huge difference as well.    However that is not what prompted me to comment as it was the new tire theme of sitting in storage waiting to be used scenario. I am sure some tires can last for quite a while in storage if its not too warm and out of the sunlight but unfortunately some tires the way they their rubber compound is formulated they can age and dry out even in a reasonably decent storage location. My brother ran into this maybe three years ago when he was looking at the tires that were on his dually truck and a combination of wear on the rear ones and noticing that the front tires had some cracks around the sidewall of the tire not far from the bead but he had replaced only the front ones not long ago with 2 of the remaining 6 he had left from the initial two sets of takeoffs he had all bought at the same time .... 10 years ago ! ( the years fly by, a truck that only gets used a bit to haul a camper during the summer and sits in a shed for a large part of the year ). That second set of 6 tires, two he had put on the front prior like I said and they had very little wear but those cracks were now present. So we go into the shed where the other 4 tires had been stored all this time and every one of them had the same cracks in the sidewalls and so in the end it amounted to throwing away 6 brand new but 10 year old takeoff tires into the dump that he got a deal on at a tire shop because they aged out. They were a Ford factory equipment BFG tire and those tires did not age well compared to some tires I've seen far older then that and did not show that type of aging. True, they always say up here anyway that 7 years is sort of a limit for age by rights, we don't have the intense prolonged heat that many of you have down in the states that just cook tires and depends on where the vehicle sits when not in use. GB, another words maybe had you bought a set of tires to store it would have been fine as long as you used them up fast enough but there are no guarantees when it comes to rubber, tires or of that other type stored in some guys wallets 😆
    • Head South
      Open Door Chimes When Key is Out

      By Head South · Posted

      2020 2500 HD...I had some trouble getting the key into the ignition switch but went in fine after applying some extra effort. Since then, the door chimes when open when the key is out of the ignition. Also, when I lock the doors with the switch on the arm rest, the driver door locks but then unlocks. (I can lock everything fine with the fob) The message on the little screen displays the "Engine Hours"...kinda weird.   I'm guessing something happened to the ignition switch and it thinks the key is still in there. I unplugged the batteries for 20 minutes, no change. There are a number of videos on YouTube but nothing I can find that address this specific issue. Ideas appreciated, thank you.
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
    • AndrewF
      Front End Rattle

      By AndrewF · Posted

      Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer.   The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight.   Most noticeable at slow speeds.    Any insight is appreciated. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...