Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

ducklawyer Enthusiast

ducklawyer

Posted
Posted


IMHO, Because I’ve had both on the same truck. The Ridge Grapplers are much more rugged looking than the KO2’s, very much make the look of the truck. The KO2’s seem to have a bit softer ride to them versus the Ridge Grapplers. Another thing is that the Ridge Grapplers are bigger tires and will take up a bit more room, 1/4”.

My experience with the Ridge Grapplers, over curbs, curb rashes, zero sign of anything. The KO2’s will show everything. That’s why I’m thinking they’re of a softer compound.

I had the KO2’s on for a few days before returning them due to vibrations at high speeds. KO2’s are well known to have some of those issues in the Jeep forums.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went with the 285/65r18 ridge grapplers and 2” level. Will be in the shop on Monday. Ridge graps were cheaper too!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

I went with the 285/65r18 ridge grapplers and 2” level. Will be in the shop on Monday. Ridge graps were cheaper too!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Are you running stock wheels? If you are, be prepared for serious rubbing. I had to buy new wheels with +1 offset. In a couple of weeks it’ll be lifted. [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted


Are you running stock wheels? If you are, be prepared for serious rubbing. I had to buy new wheels with +1 offset. In a couple of weeks it’ll be lifted. [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


He has 18" rims, not 20". 285/65r18 fit fine with 2" level


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted


He has 18" rims, not 20". 285/65r18 fit fine with 2" level


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My bad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

I went with the 285/65r18 ridge grapplers and 2” level. Will be in the shop on Monday. Ridge graps were cheaper too!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Anything smaller than a20” is smaller, sorta wish I went with 18” wheels mostly cause you can find C rated or D but once you get a level or lift, starting with a 20” you’ll start heading into the E and F rated tires. 285/60/20 Nitto Ridge Grappler is close to $400 each, installed with warranty.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

vinnyr27 Enthusiast

vinnyr27

Posted
Posted
On 11/1/2018 at 2:25 PM, Bushleaguechew said:

 


How’s the rubbing? I tried that wheel and tire combo at 3” of lift and it was hitting the cab mount behind the fender liner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Honestly, I don't rub that bad at all. The only rubbing issues I have are at full lock and even at that the tire just barely rubs the carpet fender liner. And I mean just barely touches it. I had ordered a 1.5" body lift that I thought I would need to clear the tires but they fit just fine without it. I take it off road every once in awhile and it does fine. I think it comes down to the offset I guess. I have +18 offset.  

StayInYourLayne Enthusiast

StayInYourLayne

Posted
Posted

For those of you who have a 2017+ and installed 2.25" level without changing the UCAs, have you had any issues. Dealer is offering to install a ProComp kit without UCAs and keep my warranty in tact but I don't want to make the truck unsafe even if they keep the warranty. What good is a warranty if the truck is totaled? 

rudyb Enthusiast

rudyb

Posted
Posted
On 11/2/2018 at 1:32 PM, ShubiSnax said:

275/60/r20 Duratracs

lower res.jpg

low res 2.jpg

I dig it. Any rub with this setup? Are you running stock UCA? Is that a 1.5" level? Thanks

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
For those of you who have a 2017+ and installed 2.25" level without changing the UCAs, have you had any issues. Dealer is offering to install a ProComp kit without UCAs and keep my warranty in tact but I don't want to make the truck unsafe even if they keep the warranty. What good is a warranty if the truck is totaled? 

 

Running a procomp lift will included diff drop which doesn’t need new UCA’s cause with a diff drop your UCA’s will be fine for a while.

 

You should look at CST suspension, much better quality and doesn’t make your track widen up front like it does with all those knuckle replacement kits such as BDS, ProComp. A couple guy on this forum brought it up and I jumped on it.

 

 

Sent from above

StayInYourLayne Enthusiast

StayInYourLayne

Posted
Posted


Running a procomp loft will included diff drop which doesn’t need new UCA’s cause with a diff drop your UCA’s will be fine for a while.

You should look at CST suspension, much better quality and doesn’t make your track widen up front like it does with all those knuckle replacement kits such as BDS, ProComp. A couple guy on this forum brought it up and I jumped on it.


Sent from above

The procomp is just a 1.5" top spacer and .75" spacer on the bottom. Just a regular level


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

The procomp is just a 1.5" top spacer and .75" spacer on the bottom. Just a regular level

 

That’s exactly what I’ve got but I immediately noticed right after I bought it and leveled it with stock tires then the headache started, bigger tires rubbed causing me to spend $3K on new wheels and tires. I’m looking forward to the lift cause apparently it’s going to ride like stock again.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

41de0d8357963c4c9cd72321d0401bcf.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from above

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Just dropped the truck off. Here’s the before 40bff0a952a20ccaaa2be7bcccd88916.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What are you having done?


Sent from above
huntr1117 Enthusiast

huntr1117

Posted
Posted
For those of you who have a 2017+ and installed 2.25" level without changing the UCAs, have you had any issues. Dealer is offering to install a ProComp kit without UCAs and keep my warranty in tact but I don't want to make the truck unsafe even if they keep the warranty. What good is a warranty if the truck is totaled? 
I have a 2017 and have the ProComp 2.25" level. I ran it with the stock UCAs for about 20k miles without any issues. I got my 2017 in August of 2016 and none of the levels were offering replacement UCAs. I added cognito UCAs because I got them used for a good price. I'm not saying you wont have any issues but I'm not easy on my truck and the ball joints were fine when I took the stock UCAs out.

The ProComp kit is just a level and doesn't include a diff drop. It is the exact same kit as the Readylift 2.25" level just in a different box and costs less. Now Readylift is offering replacement UCAs with the kit. 7fdd87731ce40372b9d3b6d7ad7fbf8b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coastie05
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Jsdirt
      07 yukon xl 6.2 stalls at hot idle and wont restart

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • Jsdirt
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • davester
      OBD not ready?

      By davester · Posted

      Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • RW2018GMC
      Me too……..

      By RW2018GMC · Posted

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...