Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Eibach pro level kit (kit includes front springs and shocks and rear shocks) set at 2.5” it is very close to level. I think it’s about 1/2 higher in the back. 

1CEE2E81-9B05-4923-8ACE-266B03978620.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Can i get bilsteins that will raise the rear of my truck a inch? I already have a two inch level kit in the front and it has pretty much leveled it out exactly. I would like to add only a inch in the rear to keep a nose dive. i have a 2018 chevrolet silverado

Posted
1 hour ago, Pig Sooie 4 said:

Can i get bilsteins that will raise the rear of my truck a inch? I already have a two inch level kit in the front and it has pretty much leveled it out exactly. I would like to add only a inch in the rear to keep a nose dive. i have a 2018 chevrolet silverado

Get a 2 inch block to replace the stock 1" block and a set of Bilstein 5100 part number 33-238319 for trucks with a rear lift of 0-2".

 

https://www.shockwarehouse.com/index.cfm?mode=results&selected_model=3820&selected_year=2018

  • Like 1
Posted
22 hours ago, langston1726 said:

 

Nope. They have a range of 0-1” lift I believe

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

0-2" 33-238319

  • Like 1
Posted
22 hours ago, Built2crash said:

Eibach pro level kit (kit includes front springs and shocks and rear shocks) set at 2.5” it is very close to level. I think it’s about 1/2 higher in the back. 

1CEE2E81-9B05-4923-8ACE-266B03978620.jpeg

how do you like the ride?  there arent enough reviews on this forum for the Eibach pro truck set up...

Posted

the ride is good, much better than the stock ranchos. No bouncing, little more stable in the corners. washboard isn't as bad.

Posted

When I had my 15 All Terrain, I had a dealer installed 2.25 Readylift with 3” rear blocks. I was running 275/65-20 KO2’s with no rubbing at all. On my new 19 limited now, I will be installing the Readylift 2.25 kit w/upper control arms and 3” rear blocks. Again I will be running the same tire. Apparently the new stamped steel uca’s are junk.

Posted

When everyone is talking about 2" leveling kits, are the blocks actually 2", or are they 1" (which raises the front about 2")? 

I'm looking to raise the front as high as possible without too much ball joint strain (I was thinking 2" higher), and raise the back an inch higher 

Posted

The front lower spacer is not proportionate to the lift height. On the rear it is but not the front.

There's a million pages of info on this topic but the bottom line is any lift in the front is going to put more strain on your ball joints than no lift.

Most people can agree that 2 inches is a "safe" height without replacing UCA's to correct the ball joint angle but you will find that some people raise it 3" and "don't have any problems" for years...

Jon

Posted
19 hours ago, Kman731 said:

When everyone is talking about 2" leveling kits, are the blocks actually 2", or are they 1" (which raises the front about 2")? 

I'm looking to raise the front as high as possible without too much ball joint strain (I was thinking 2" higher), and raise the back an inch higher 

i called motofab to confirm this before ordering. they advertise based off the amount of lift, not the block size. 

 

i went 2" in front, drove it for about a month and decided i wanted 1" in the rear as well. It is super close fender measurements but still looks like it has some squat. the 1" rear should be perfect. 

Posted

The Readylift kit, 66-3086, the upper strut spacer is 1.5” and the bottom spacer is .75”. This they say will give you 2.25”. My 19 limited had stamped steel uca’s and Readylift says they are prone to premature failure. Something to do with the balljoint.

Posted

My question is do you think it’s nesessary to replace the control arms? Will they fail?

Posted

Perfect, thanks. I think I'll do the 2" front and 1" back

 

On 8/10/2020 at 6:15 AM, Vasa1 said:

The Readylift kit, 66-3086, the upper strut spacer is 1.5” and the bottom spacer is .75”. This they say will give you 2.25”. My 19 limited had stamped steel uca’s and Readylift says they are prone to premature failure. Something to do with the balljoint.

So the 2.25" was too much lift for the ball joints?

Posted (edited)

My truck was lifted to the max I think it had a 3” or 3.5” level kit “I bought it like that with 20x10 on 33s”, but I never had a problem with ball joints or anything...  I just upgraded to a full suspension lift maybe I got lucky...


20x10 on 33s with leveling kit

14BBBC0E-ACBB-412B-88E8-C53EF4AF9818.thumb.jpeg.85bd3482b1d3ef066c6d58431f49b17e.jpeg

 

6E85545D-4A35-4171-8A77-866CD10A5FAF.thumb.jpeg.c62b03cf0c8d6d4d717a8c6f9e6579d3.jpeg

 

A337A022-A833-49E6-8411-491C0988206C.thumb.jpeg.d5b811f7fe118714d57e088d34b9d541.jpeg
 

 

9” Suspension lift with the add a leaf 

24x14 on 37s

(did frontend swap, it’s the same truck)

A8A248D4-C8D0-4115-9494-3FDF19C6DFDF.thumb.jpeg.571198808a18dfe44ea1499782e607b6.jpeg

 

6206505E-7F08-40C9-B92F-D7DE25E4D58F.thumb.jpeg.80fbf6d528a64e1c1eb9324a736b4802.jpeg

Edited by Frankielozano214
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...