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The trouble begins, no start


brendon444

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Posted

As I read about all these starting issues I realize that I kinda like the simplicity of my 1985 Mercedes 300D turbo diesel. A five cylinder in line diesel, all cast iron block and cast iron head, bulletproof Garret turbocharger, all mechanical fuel injection, no catalytic converter, no engine computer, no engine sensors, no exhaust flapper valves, all mechanical valve lifters. All it needs is fuel, air and compression to run. Electric power is required for starting only. After that you can disconnect the battery and alternator and it will continue running. Just like an old diesel tractor. Not as good fuel economy as the new car diesels, but definitely extremely simple and easy to fix. It is a nice classic that I hate to get rid of. And the car is built like a brick shit house. It even has a factory installed hydraulic steering stabilizer like heavy duty pickups. And classic recirculating ball steering mechanism with massive components.

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Posted

Who told you that the valve is for ULEV?

Posted

Who told you that the valve is for ULEV?

That sounds strange to me too, I believe it is for increasing the exhaust back pressure at low speeds for maximum engine torque. It is a very simple system, unlike more sophisticated computer and actuator controlled exhaust valves on certain motorcycles. And on those maximizing the low speed torque by increasing the exhaust back pressure is the reason for the valve.

Posted

Who told you that the valve is for ULEV?

A friend of mine that does emissions testing, said it was in their training that the flapper is there to facilitate the warming of the catalyst in the last converter and if disabled the vehicle should be rejected. If that is true then this is GMs attempt at keeping the exhaust system on the vehicle stock. He has never told me anything that wasn't fact before. Says GM took the idea from the european brands. He said BMW uses them too as well as VW.

Posted

Dealer said that the exhaust flapper? has nothing to do with the problem. Also, the problem with the power steering is a known problem but GM does not have a fix for it yet. Looks like the truck will be in the shop for quite a while.

Posted

Dealer said that the exhaust flapper? has nothing to do with the problem. Also, the problem with the power steering is a known problem but GM does not have a fix for it yet. Looks like the truck will be in the shop for quite a while.

I drove a 2wd CC LT loaner yesterday, felt like I was driving a MAC truck from the 60's. Power steering was non existent for the first 2 to 3 miles. Dash was warped and rattled something awful. Truck had 500 miles on the ODO.

 

Just thought I'd share.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I have had 2 different starting issues with my 2014 silverado since I got it 1 month ago.

-The first was the click and no turn over that someone mentioned above. Then after trying several times it would turn over and start up great. They told me that some of the starters were coming with moisture in them... How did they fix it? They cranked it over 25 times until it heated up so much it dried out. Sounds pretty ridiculous to me...

-Then just 2 days ago I had the exhaust flapper issue.

Not too impressed with this so far.

Posted

I have had 2 different starting issues with my 2014 silverado since I got it 1 month ago.

-The first was the click and no turn over that someone mentioned above. Then after trying several times it would turn over and start up great. They told me that some of the starters were coming with moisture in them... How did they fix it? They cranked it over 25 times until it heated up so much it dried out. Sounds pretty ridiculous to me...

-Then just 2 days ago I had the exhaust flapper issue.

Not too impressed with this so far.

I too have had starting issues. Once, remote started with enormous cloud of black smoke then shut itself off two minutes later and wouldn't start with the key. An hour later started with check engine light. On another occasion, drove 35 minutes and parked at a store for about 15 min then it would not start. Towed to the dealer where it started immediately. Since then every remote start produces a large cloud of black smoke!

 

We cannot trust this truck! Absolutely not reliable!

Posted

Since then every remote start produces a large cloud of black smoke!

 

 

My 1985 Mercedes 300 diesel does it when you floor it. It is a very effective deterrent for tailgaters. :lol:

Posted
Yes, you are correct. If the flapper was in fact the issue, then it had to be from back pressure, because there is definitely no connection between the flapper and anything else on the vehicle. I examined mine with a microscope (so to speak) when we removed it less than 24 hours after I took delivery. I live in Alabama, so there would never be a chance that it would freeze up, but my exhaust guy ( a huge exhaust performance guy in these parts) said the flappers had caused numerous problems on the new Camaros, mainly from noises if makes when flapping back and forth while driving. We removed my entire system from just behind the cats. My current system is absolutely perfect. Glad to hear you resolved the issue. Annother gold star for this forum!

 

Sorry to hijack the thread...

 

Who did the exhaust and what did you have put on? Any drone? I'm an Alabama guy too so might want to use your guy instead of buying bolt on.

Posted

I have had 2 different starting issues with my 2014 silverado since I got it 1 month ago.

 

-The first was the click and no turn over that someone mentioned above. Then after trying several times it would turn over and start up great. They told me that some of the starters were coming with moisture in them... How did they fix it? They cranked it over 25 times until it heated up so much it dried out. Sounds pretty ridiculous to me...

 

-Then just 2 days ago I had the exhaust flapper issue.

 

Not too impressed with this so far.

It is ridiculous, because DC motors like your starter motor are very high torque, high current draw motors that heat up very quickly with repeated cranking and can easily get damaged due to overheating. My deuce and half has a 10 HP starter motor, which is about 7500 Watts or 7.5 kW power, so at 24 Volts, this motor will draw about 300 amperes of current while continuously cranking. This amount of current will heat up things very quick. Your truck starter motor output is probably only about 2,000 Watts or 2 kW, and at 12 Volts it will draw about 170 amperes, which is still a lot of current.

 

Also, DC motors will momentarily draw up to 3 times the continuous current draw when starting.

Posted

Sorry to hijack the thread... Who did the exhaust and what did you have put on? Any drone? I'm an Alabama guy too so might want to use your guy instead of buying bolt on.

I'll send you a PM>

Posted

Took the truck to the Dealer for Heated Seat repair today but they had to order more parts.

 

Also, discovered that the rear window defogger/deicer no longer works. Appointment for tomorrow.

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