Bilstein shocks thread

[2018GMC]

On 7/4/2018 at 5:27 PM, 2liter said:

There is a  post in here about adding washers to center shock bolt. I did this when mine was popping and it fixed the issue. 

I just had this issue. Installed original strut nuts which are deeper than the ones that come with the bilsteins. 

 

Stock nut threads are at top and 1/4” space at bottom (aka no washers needed) if you kept stock nuts. 

 

Edited July 14, 2018 by 2009GMC

[thetruck454]

 

8 hours ago, Silverado-Hareek said:

Did you install the rear lift blocks to maintain a more stock looking forward rake, or did the 3rd setting level the truck and you needed the lift block to add the rake back in?  It's hard to tell from this angle how much rake it has.

 

I wanted rake from the start because I tow and put heavy stuff in the bed.  Having the front end higher than the back even when loaded is a pet peeve of mine.  Hope this picture gives you more of an idea of the rake it has now.  I forgot to take before measurements, but after I'm 3" higher in the back.

[Roscopcoletrain]

36 minutes ago, thetruck454 said:

 

 

I wanted rake from the start because I tow and put heavy stuff in the bed.  Having the front end higher than the back even when loaded is a pet peeve of mine.  Hope this picture gives you more of an idea of the rake it has now.  I forgot to take before measurements, but after I'm 3" higher in the back.

I know it's just the photo, but your front tires almost look larger than the rear. 

[Silverado-Hareek]

Just picked up the truck from getting the 5100’s installed.   It looks great! I’ll post some pictures after I get the tires installed on Monday. 

 

Quick question though....I noticed the steering is tighter now. I also hear what sounds like clicking type noise when I turn the wheel. I don’t Hear it outside the truck but I hear it in the cab when I mute the radio and listen. Did anyone else experience this?

 

i have not done an alignment. I’m going to get that done on Monday with the tires so hopefully that helps. 

[2018GMC]

FYI use your stock nuts when installing bilstein 5100. The nuts bilstein sends usually bottom out on the strut rod threads. If you have a squeaking or banging / clinking when hitting bumps, especially after you put some miles on your 5100s.  If you can turn or move the black top hat below he nut then that’s probably the problem. 

 

First pic 15mm bilstien nut. See how many threads are at top. 

 

Second pic stock GM 18mm nut which is deeper and doesn’t need threaded down to end of strut threads. Aka no bottoming out.  

 

Edited July 14, 2018 by 2009GMC

[Silverado-Hareek]

Yeah the guy I took it to used the stock nuts. 

 

I did some more investigative work and the clicking noise is definitely from the steering assembly. I’m thinking the toe alignment on the wheels is out and causing some pressure and binding and that’s why I hear the clicking at low speed sharp turning like when I park versus general driving around where there’s no clicking at all. I’m thinking (hoping) an alignment will correct this. 

 

***UPDATE***

I've been searching the internet for hours and I'm coming across all kinds of information.  After reading multiple manufacturer forums, the following information seems to pop up in every one:

 

1) The clicking/popping sound and feeling in the steering wheel is extremely common and seems to be a problem unique to electric power steering setups, not hydraulic power steering.  Multiple people are reporting this issue.  In fact, a guy I work with had this problem after installing his rough country leveling kit and I'm going to ask him about it on Monday at the office.

 

2) GM, Ford, and Toyota forums all describe the same problem after leveling trucks their trucks.  Rough Country is the most cited brand of level kit associated with the issue, but folks with Bilstein 5100's are reporting it as well.

 

3) Apparently you're supposed to cut the power to the electric power steering system before installing any kind of level because the work could potentially cause damage to the system.  I did not know this and I'm not sure the mechanic that installed my shocks knew this either.

 

I'm not saying this is definitely what I have going on, but the symptoms described are extremely similar.  I'm still hoping that the new tires and alignment solves the problem but the more I read, the more I'm starting to think that my electric steering assembly is screwed up now.

Edited July 15, 2018 by Silverado-Hareek

[UrbanRage]

This questions is geared more to the individuals that left their truck at the stock height with 5100s. I do understand that the shock will absorb potholes and large bumps better, but cruising down the road, is the ride better? 

 

Thanks to any input you can provide. 

[Silverado-Hareek]

Update on my popping steering wheel:  It does not appear that my leveling shocks caused this problem.  I spoke with 2 individuals that I know that have the same exact issue I'm experiencing.  Both said that theirs started before they even leveled their trucks.  Both have also driven tens of thousands of miles with the "popping" noise and it hasn't gotten worse.  I also spoke with a mechanic on the side and he seems to think that it's more of an annoyance and not likely to be an issue from a safety standpoint.  He said the only way to fix it is to replace the power steering assembly.  In reading this forum, multiple people have had theirs replaced in an effort to correct this issue and the sound ultimately came back.  It seems these power steering assemblies are just junk.  I'll keep this brief so that this thread stays on topic.  I'm keeping the Bilstein's as is on the 3rd setting.  I need to fix a loose ball joint so I can get a proper alignment, and then it's on to tires!  I'll come back here and post some pictures when all the work is done.

[Sierra Dan]

On ‎6‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 11:36 PM, CH15GMC said:

Just ordered the 6112. Look forward to getting them and testing them out. I was going to get .5" spacer for a little more lift. Is it better to get the top or bottom spacer? I'll looking into UCA later. 

 

Will the 6112 have more travel? I wanted to get some 275/65R20 KO2's...should I be concerned? Thanks in advance.

Did your 6112's come in or are they on back order?

[2018GMC]

On 7/16/2018 at 5:35 PM, UrbanRage said:

This questions is geared more to the individuals that left their truck at the stock height with 5100s. I do understand that the shock will absorb potholes and large bumps better, but cruising down the road, is the ride better? 

 

Thanks to any input you can provide. 

Ride is stiffer and more controlled. If you just want to replace shocks and not raise the truck buy the 4600s.

[CH15GMC]

On July 17, 2018 at 8:22 AM, Sierra Dan said:

Did your 6112's come in or are they on back order?

Not yet..I was on the pre-release email/list but I guess that didn't happen. They said they are getting more in Friday and should ship them out that day. I hope to have them early next week.

[Arkangel]

17 hours ago, CH15GMC said:

Not yet..I was on the pre-release email/list but I guess that didn't happen. They said they are getting more in Friday and should ship them out that day. I hope to have them early next week.

From MRT?

[CH15GMC]

8 hours ago, Arkangel said:

From MRT?

Yes, MRT.

[Sooperdave]

On 7/12/2018 at 8:55 PM, Silverado-Hareek said:

Well it's been a long 4 years of being cheap and waiting for the stock tires to wear down.  Tomorrow I finally install the Bilstein 5100's I ordered a couple weeks ago.  BFG KO2 tires go on on Monday.  I'm really pumped to finally make this thing look tougher.

 

What is the consensus on the rear shocks and their orientation?  Traditionally the protective rubber boot goes up, but I'm reading in this thread that people are installing them with the boot down and the Bilstein logo rightside up.  People are saying this is per Bilstein's installation guidelines.  Is this correct?  I have a mechanic doing the install for me tomorrow and I want to make sure he does it correctly.

 

Edit:  I've been doing a lot of reading and everything I can find says to go with the direction that has the Bilstein logo reading correctly rightside up....in my case that would mean that the boot is to the bottom and shock body is to the top.  Seems to be in line with what everyone here is saying.

I don't think it really matters but I installed mine just like factory... boot on top.  I actually removed the label and flipped it so it reads correctly.  

[Sierra Dan]

1 hour ago, Sooperdave said:

I don't think it really matters but I installed mine just like factory... boot on top.  I actually removed the label and flipped it so it reads correctly.  

Same here. Label off, Boot up.

I drove around a while with them Boot down and no difference in ride or handling.

Boot up looks better and makes more sense.