2008 Chevrolet 1500 Silverado WT 4.3L V6 won't turn over or start

[ChevDev]

I just recently parked my Chevy 1500 Silverado WT to do some routine work. when I attempted to start it up all that happened was the key turned and the instrument panel lights went out and there was an audible click from that area. I got out and check the battery connections, battery (which is fairly new) and the starter relay on the fuse block. I even tried jumping it off of a running vehicle, but still the same problem exist. All the lights and radio work fine so I assume the battery is not the cause for the sudden death. I tried swapping the starter relay with another relay (one that was for fog lights which I don't have) and I still get the same response. I then took out the ignition relay fuse and found the power side and connected it to the ground terminal and nothing happened. I repeated the same steps on the starter relay and I heard the starter click. I have never had any starting problems (with the exception of the key getting stuck from time to time) with the truck or any kind of work done recently. I don't have a anti-theft system as far as I know. Since I'm sure the problem is electrical in nature could anyone tell me what could be the cause or what I should investigate next? I understand there could be many failures in the system that could cause this, so I will try and seek out the most likely causes first. Hopefully I can avoid having to tow it to the dealer for a diagnosis and repair with the help of a knowledgeable and friendly mechanic.

 

Thanks in advanced for anyone who can help me.

[txab]

Have the battery checked just to be sure

[Jsdirt]

That usually happens with a bad connection with the battery cables. Check ALL of them, both ends too.

 

Those "emergency clamps" they sell at the autoparts stores pretty much guarantee to make this a regular occurrence - if you have those on there, replace both cables. Make sure the terminals are clean, and the bolt isn't stripped - connection needs to be clean & tight. Even a little lead oxidation can make that happen too. You'll hear it spark under a high amp load, then everything dies. Turn key back, and everything works again ... until you try to start it. Classic symptoms.

[Doug_Scott]

+1

 

the most important part is to actually remove and clean the connections at the battery, do not just assume that since you can't move the cable, and it looks pretty clean that it is actually making a good connection. Years ago I had a car that would not start like you describe, and even a boost would not work. At the time I thought that the connections were tight, and the top of the battery looked really clean(this was back in old vented lead/acid battery time), that if even a boost would not work that it must be the starter, or maybe even a seized engine. As a last ditch effort I actually cleaned the battery connections, and the car started just fine afterwards. You would think that it would crank with just the booster cable connections, but it won't.

[ChevDev]

Thanks you for response guys. I made sure to check the battery connections during the first inspection of the power source. I made sure the bolts were not stripped, there was no corrosion build-up on the battery terminals or connectors, and that there was no break (fault) in the cables coming to or leading away from the battery. I recently purchased a Die Hard battery roughly a year ago and took it out to have it tested and it seemed to be ok. However I would like to look at the ignition, relay, ECM and starter to determine where the problem could be.

[ChevDev]

I brought the battery in and put it on the charger (since I have been trying to crank the engine so many times) and then I took it to the local auto parts store and had they load test the battery. I have also tested the battery and got back a reading of over 12.6V without cranking. I then tested the resistance on both the negative and positive cables leading directly to the starter and it reads 00.0 ohms. Then I tested the relay by swapping it with two of the same relay switches and the results were the same. Since then I jumped the starter relay dock from #86 to #30 and was not able to turn over the starter so I took the started to two different auto parts stores and had it tested only to find out it was and. I bought a new starter and connected it and tried to start with the key again, but the same results "no crank no start". I did a direct wire jump at the relay dock and this time I was able to get the starter to turnover but still no luck with starting from the ignition. I will look and see if there is some other fuse that I might have missed or perhaps I have a anti-theft system that I don't know about (although I highly doubt it) stopping me from starting from the ignition. I do suspect that if it's not the fuse then a ignition component or the ECM might be the culprit, but since I don't have electrical schematic I can't be sure. I will update the post when I have additional news.

[Doug_Scott]

Try moving the shifter to neutral and see if it will crank now. This may be as simple as a neutral safety switch acting up, assuming they still have such a device anymore.

[Tufftruckin]

ChevyDev was wondering what you figured out with your truck I have the same issue going on and was wondering if you had any luck with it in the last couple years lol