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Towing a Toy Hauler with 5.3L

Josh121

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George C Enthusiast

George C

Posted
Posted

Another issue I've seen with 1/2 ton trucks especially due to softer springs is when the drop hitch on the truck isn't the right size the nose of the trailer can be too low, or high. Also pulling a boat if the trailer weight is distributed more behind the axles due to the engine weight of the boat, this leads to the trailer "fishtailing" or basically the trailer sways left to right as you get to highway speeds. If the trailer is level, and it still does it. Make sure the tire pressure are at spec on the truck, and trailer. Max cold psi on the trailer is best. Then take 3-5 lbs of air pressure out of the front axle tires on a tandom axle trailer. This will help with the trailer sway by sending some of the weight towards the tongue. Hope this helps everyone!

 

Tire pressure won't cure fishtailing, and fishtailing has nothing to do with the size of the truck. I've had a semi trailer fishtail off the back of a Peterbilt 389 because the fifth wheel was slid too far back on the frame. It's a simple matter of incorrect weight distribution. The same type of control loss can happen on any size rig, big or small. fifthwheel or rear bumper trailer ball.

 

In the case you are describing a fix for, fishtailing comes from too much load weight on the trailer axles, and not enough on the tongue/rear of the truck. Correcting this requires shifting weight back to the tongue/truck. Towing with this condition is downright dangerous.

I had the exact same problem with my 26' boat trailer, and it's a half hour fix.

Simply loosen the axle to trailer "U" bolts that connect the axle and spring package to the trailer frame and slide the trailer tandems back towards the rear a foot or two, and retighten. This transfers weight off of the trailer axles and transfers weight back on to the rear of the truck. Then, you can tow at any speed safely without dangerous fishtailing.

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1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

Tire pressure won't cure fish tailing. This problem comes from too much load weight on the trailer axles, and not enough on the rear of the truck. Correcting this requires shifting weight back to the tongue/truck.

simply loosen the axle to trailer "U" bolts and slide the trailer tandems back a foot or two and retighten. This transfers weight off of the trailer axles and on to the rear of the truck. Then, you can tow at any speed safely without dangerous fishtailing.

I week disagree with you on this. I've done it for years to cure a trailer's fishtailing problems until I could get new axles under a used trailer I've bought granted I'm not talking about a trailer swaying 3-4 feet but a minor swaying of 1-2 feet. On boats rear weight is a big problem as is the hitch height of the trailer (sometimes it's as simple as an upside down mounted drop hitch putting too much weight to the back.) As for moving axles on most of the trailers we're talking about it wouldn't be worth the time considering you would be moving the trailers fenders as well to move the axle back. On a top deck gooseneck yeah but not a toy hauler, or boat trailer unless he's got a pontoon boat that had the small tires without the fenders.
George C Enthusiast

George C

Posted
Posted

I week disagree with you on this. I've done it for years to cure a trailer's fishtailing problems until I could get new axles under a used trailer I've bought. On boats rear weight is a big problem as is the hitch height of the trailer (sometimes it's as simple as an upside down mounted drop hitch putting too much weight to the back.) As for moving axles on most of the trailers we're talking about it wouldn't be worth the time considering you would be moving the trailers fenders as well to move the axle back. On a top deck gooseneck yeah but not a toy hauler, or boat trailer unless he's got a pontoon boat that had the small tires without the fenders.

You can disagree all you want. The fact remains.

Hitch height, tire pressure has nothing to do with the root of the problem you were struggling with. To think that you never needed replacement axles on you boat trailer....

 

The problem is still results from weight distribution, probably because the teenager who put the boat trailer kit together doesn't have a clue to the weight of the boat the trailer will be carrying.

On a boat trailer, th fenders are mounted on the tandem package, and move with the axles.

 

On a toy hauler or any other suspension/axle package that is welded in place, the axles are pre set for correct distribution according to the designed load when the trailer was engineered.

1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

You can disagree all you want. The fact remains.

Hitch height, tire pressure has nothing to do with the root of the problem you were struggling with. To think that you never needed replacement axles on you boat trailer....

 

The problem is still results from weight distribution, probably because the teenager who put the boat trailer kit together doesn't have a clue to the weight of the boat the trailer will be carrying.

On a boat trailer, th fenders are mounted on the tandem package, and move with the axles.

 

On a toy hauler or any other suspension/axle package that is welded in place, the axles are pre set for correct distribution according to the designed load when the trailer was engineered.

You're seriously telling me that dropping the height of the hitch ball a couple inches doesn't change the handling of a trailer. I guess it's just been magic making the fishtailing stop when I did it on my trailers over the years as our trailers we're hooked up to various trucks, or when we picked up the trailers that were slightly misloaded on weight.

 

The fenders on the two powerboats I had were welded to the trailer. Looks like we'll stay in a respectful disagreement as we feel we both have different facts remaining here.

George C Enthusiast

George C

Posted
Posted

Changing height an inch or two doesn't transfer more than a few pounds, especially when the boat engine is still too far back from the axles and a couple hundred pounds need to be transferred to the tongue for safe operation.

 

Visit a scale sometime to get the real weight differential on a ticket.

If you are satisfied with your solution, then I'm happy for you, I respectfully ask that you don't suggest this to others as some sort of fix.

It's not.

 

The other possible fix is to move the boat forward. More weight up front is always better.

1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

Changing height an inch or two doesn't transfer more than a few pounds, especially when the boat engine is still too far back from the axles and a couple hundred pounds need to be transferred to the tongue for safe operation.

 

Visit a scale sometime to get the real weight differential on a ticket.

If you are satisfied with your solution, then I'm happy for you, I respectfully ask that you don't suggest this to others as some sort of fix.

It's not.

 

The other possible fix is to move the boat forward. More weight up front is always better.

I have a usdot # I'm quite familiar with scales. One example of what I explained happened when we purchased our latest 2500hd. The trailer I pull with it had the same equipment mounted in the same places since we purchased it 8 years ago. The trailer never fishtailed once in those 8 years. I do my morning inspection before the 1st drive with the new truck. I get on the highway, and I get a bad fishtail that is so bad I have to slow down 20mph and pull over. After putting out my safety triangles I immediately chalk the trailer, jack it up, and lower the ball height 2 inches. The trailer measured 3/4 inch high in the front when we first hooked it up. I get back on the road and the fishtailing diminished to maybe 2-3 inches of sway at 75 mph. When at the job site I let the pressures go to cold psi, and I lower 5 lbs out of the front tires. On the drive back to the shop I had zero sway at any speed on the highway. The next day I move some of the smaller equipment that I could up towards the tongue, and put the air back in the tires. So please explain why what I did didn't fix the problem, or call me a liar. Your choice.

1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

Before this thread gets derailed anymore than it has. The Fast lane trucks on YouTube tests every truck they can on the Ike gauntlet. Which is an 8 mile uphill pull at 60 mph with a 7% grade. They just tested a 1500 5.3l 8 speed with the max towing 3.73 rear end towing a 9000lb horse loaded horse trailer with a 900lb tongue weight. It did a very close time to a 6.2l with an 8 speed, 3.23 rear end.

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted

Before this thread gets derailed anymore than it has. The Fast lane trucks on YouTube tests every truck they can on the Ike gauntlet. Which is an 8 mile uphill pull at 60 mph with a 7% grade. They just tested a 1500 5.3l 8 speed with the max towing 3.73 rear end towing a 9000lb horse loaded horse trailer with a 900lb tongue weight. It did a very close time to a 6.2l with an 8 speed, 3.23 rear end.

Are you sure about the rear end on the '16 5.3 8 speed max tow? I could swear both the '16 6.2 and 5.3 8 speed Max tow came with 3.42 rear end.

1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

That's what they showed in the video. I don't have the link but just look up "The Fast Lane Truck" on YouTube. It's the newest video they posted. It pops up on the video at the 1:57 mark in the video that the truck has a 3.73 rear end.

xelli Enthusiast

xelli

Posted
Posted

Are you sure about the rear end on the '16 5.3 8 speed max tow? I could swear both the '16 6.2 and 5.3 8 speed Max tow came with 3.42 rear end.

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Badass69 Senior Enthusiast

Badass69

Posted
Posted
1300c, on 29 Jan 2016 - 7:35 PM, said:1300c, on 29 Jan 2016 - 7:35 PM, said:

That's what they showed in the video. I don't have the link but just look up "The Fast Lane Truck" on YouTube. It's the newest video they posted. It pops up on the video at the 1:57 mark in the video that the truck has a 3.73 rear end.

 

Which unless the truck has the 6 speed in it the truck doesn't have. I take their tests with a grain of salt..... they are all over the place constantly and have misinformation in about the same frequency too. The truck did well either way though.... but unless they are running the 2 trucks side by side that same day I really don't care what they ran lol. I have varied by nearly half a second on naturally aspirated street rides depending on the density altitude on the given day. That's just drag racing in a quarter mile.... running up a mountain might vary by 30 seconds..... again.... grain of salt.

George C Enthusiast

George C

Posted
Posted

I have a usdot # I'm quite familiar with scales. One example of what I explained happened when we purchased our latest 2500hd. The trailer I pull with it had the same equipment mounted in the same places since we purchased it 8 years ago. The trailer never fishtailed once in those 8 years. I do my morning inspection before the 1st drive with the new truck. I get on the highway, and I get a bad fishtail that is so bad I have to slow down 20mph and pull over. After putting out my safety triangles I immediately chalk the trailer, jack it up, and lower the ball height 2 inches. The trailer measured 3/4 inch high in the front when we first hooked it up. I get back on the road and the fishtailing diminished to maybe 2-3 inches of sway at 75 mph. When at the job site I let the pressures go to cold psi, and I lower 5 lbs out of the front tires. On the drive back to the shop I had zero sway at any speed on the highway. The next day I move some of the smaller equipment that I could up towards the tongue, and put the air back in the tires. So please explain why what I did didn't fix the problem, or call me a liar. Your choice.

Nobody is calling you a liar.

 

If your distribution is so out of wack that an inch or two difference in ball height can throw your trailer into a tizzy, common sense should tell you that there is a major problem that may take you, and other innocent people out some day.

 

I had the same problem with my boat as you do. I drove truck for many years, so sliding axles or fifth wheels to make scale was an everyday thing.

Took me five minutes to figure out the proper adjustment.

Now, I could run down the freeway at 80 mph with one finger on the wheel and day of the week, and the boat won't budge, no matter the wind interferences. Doesn't matter what height ball is in the reciever because the right amount of weight sits on it.

Take my suggestions for what it's worth to you.

Back on subject.

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted

2016 Sierra 1500 Trailering Chart.PNG

See where it has both ratios listed for 5.3 max tow? The 3.42 is for the trucks with 8 speeds, the 3.73 is for the 6 speed Max tows.
1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

Nobody is calling you a liar.

It's simple weight distribution. You are dancing around a problem, but it's still there, and it will rear its head again.

 

Want to solve all of your fishtailing problems where you could tow at 80 mph with one finger on the wheel without a care in the world?

Transfer weight from the trailer wheels to the tongue/rear end.

It's that simple.

Moving the ball or playing with air pressure may massage your problem, but it doesn't solve your issue.

I really think there has been a misunderstanding between us. My comments were in regard to getting the trailer home safely if you can't move the weight forward. If you see in my post I mentioned that some things were moved forward the next day. They are bolted down so I couldn't do it immediately.

George C Enthusiast

George C

Posted
Posted

I really think there has been a misunderstanding between us. My comments were in regard to getting the trailer home safely if you can't move the weight forward. If you see in my post I mentioned that some things were moved forward the next day. They are bolted down so I couldn't do it immediately.

Please reread my post above since I edited it.

 

After reading your last post, I think we were simply on different pages.

Thanks.

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