Jump to content

Towing a Toy Hauler with 5.3L

Josh121

Recommended Posts

jamin87ss Senior Enthusiast

jamin87ss

Posted
Posted

What if I will only be pulling around 10K lbs 3 to 5 times a year and a boat that weighs around 5,500 lbs a few times a year? In your opinion, would that warrant stepping up to a 2500 diesel? I know people on here like their 6.0 2500 trucks and that is fine but if I'm going to get a 2500 I would only consider the diesel motor.

See my post, similar predicament to me, I chose a half, part of that is driving 18k a year also, if I had a daily driver and my truck was more of just a puller I may have chose a 3/4

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply
SouthpawHD Enthusiast

SouthpawHD

Posted
Posted

What if I will only be pulling around 10K lbs 3 to 5 times a year and a boat that weighs around 5,500 lbs a few times a year? In your opinion, would that warrant stepping up to a 2500 diesel? I know people on here like their 6.0 2500 trucks and that is fine but if I'm going to get a 2500 I would only consider the diesel motor.

 

I think it depends on what your non-towing driving is like. For example, I take a fair amount of short trips and that is not good for a diesel as they need to warm up more than those short trips will allow. If you do a lot highway driving while not towing, a diesel would be a good option.

 

I read an interesting article in Truck Trend that compared the differences between the Duramax and the 6.0, performance aside, with the cost of owing a diesel they estimate the break-even mark around 100,000 miles because of that extra cost of owning a diesel. Something to consider if you are not towing a lot.

George C Enthusiast

George C

Posted
Posted

I tow trailers every day weighing between 4,500, and 10,000 lbs, and have for 12 years. My father has since 1975. In our family business we have both new 2500hd duramax trucks, and 1500 5.3l trucks. My biggest two concerns towing are not if the engine can pull but can the truck properly stop what I'm towing in just about every single situation, and in a Reese hitch trailer making sure the weight is distributed for a proper tongue weight. So make sure that the toy hauler at least has electric brakes on both axles.

But since power is what everyone is talking about I believe the more the better. This won't be popular probably but 5,000-7000lbs a 5.3l with 3.73 would be fine. 5,000-10,000lbs the 6.2l with an 8 speed works well. If you can swing a diesel than 10,000lbs, and over a duramax, or nothing for me.

Also being a tow hauler the wind resistance becomes a bigger issue for a smaller engine like a 5.3l in a half ton truck. Our 3/4 trucks really shine when it gets windy because they are designed to pull those loads better like that.

If it were me I'd get a 2500hd with the duramax, and enjoy the drives better with your family. I wouldn't even consider the 6.0l. I pulled our trailers test driving one and it stayed at 4,000 rpms the whole time.

This^^.

 

Yes, one can hook up a double wide mobile home to a small truck and move it down the road. Others who have been towing weight with a truck with power and brakes know the difference.

 

If one chooses to drive cross country with their 1500 towing a toy hauler, more power to you (no pun intended).

But, some of us object at the suggestion to others that it's a truck that can handle it without major shortcomings in power, suspension and brakes.

George C Enthusiast

George C

Posted
Posted

I think it depends on what your non-towing driving is like. For example, I take a fair amount of short trips and that is not good for a diesel as they need to warm up more than those short trips will allow. If you do a lot highway driving while not towing, a diesel would be a good option.

 

I read an interesting article in Truck Trend that compared the differences between the Duramax and the 6.0, performance aside, with the cost of owing a diesel they estimate the break-even mark around 100,000 miles because of that extra cost of owning a diesel. Something to consider if you are not towing a lot.

I agree. There is no real economic advantage when buying a diesel when leaving it stock. It's an option that is chosen strictly for power AND potential. Add a tuner and you add a ton of extra power and better mileage to make up the difference faster.

My 2500 is equipped with a 6.0L because its primary job is to plow snow. Lower front end weight was the goal for me. As for towing, it's not 5.3l bad, but not far from it.

380 lbs or whatever it is for torque isn't enough IMHO. But it does have the suspension and brakes to make it safe. Drop in a Duramax, and you have a truck.

 

I understand that a rig of this expense isn't in the cards for everyone, but if you don't have the right truck, you shouldn't really expect it to pull a large heavy trailer safely and efficiently, especially in a headwind.

1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

What if I will only be pulling around 10K lbs 3 to 5 times a year and a boat that weighs around 5,500 lbs a few times a year? In your opinion, would that warrant stepping up to a 2500 diesel? I know people on here like their 6.0 2500 trucks and that is fine but if I'm going to get a 2500 I would only consider the diesel motor.

At 3-5 times a year if its not cross country I wouldn't worry much if the truck has a brake box, transmission cooler, at least a 3.42 rear end, and the trailers you're pulling have proper braking. A 5000lb boat also pulls easier because it's actually pretty aerodynamic from being designed to go through the water efficiently. Like I said just make sure you can stop it easily.

 

One unique advantage to a 2500 is if in the future you get a large heavy trailer, that might be too much for a 2500 you can upgrade the rear springs, and shocks to the 1 ton spec for about a $1,000. The front end on the 2500, & 3500 suspension are identical part number for part number. The rear axles are the same too. That, or the price difference between a 2500, and 3500 isn't big to begin with.

 

As for going with a diesel since you don't tow a lot. It depends on if your comfortable spending the extra money for the diesel which I think is around $8,500 above the price of the 6.0L. The ride is noticeably rougher with a 2500 because it's sweet spot ride wise is when is pulling a trailer.

99-ls1-ss Enthusiast

99-ls1-ss

Posted
Posted

 

I think it depends on what your non-towing driving is like. For example, I take a fair amount of short trips and that is not good for a diesel as they need to warm up more than those short trips will allow. If you do a lot highway driving while not towing, a diesel would be a good option.

 

I read an interesting article in Truck Trend that compared the differences between the Duramax and the 6.0, performance aside, with the cost of owing a diesel they estimate the break-even mark around 100,000 miles because of that extra cost of owning a diesel. Something to consider if you are not towing a lot.

My daily non-towing driving is all short trips. My longest trip would be 15 minutes at most. I have very limited highway driving for my daily activities.

ewbldavis Enthusiast

ewbldavis

Posted
Posted

This is the Pro Pride http://www.propridehitch.com/

Hensley is similar. Both designed by the same guy.

 

Very expensive. I have a Equal-i-zer 4 point that works very well and is 1/3 the price.

I tow a 34' TT loaded weighs 8,200.

 

Ignore the dry weights of a trailer and plan on towing weight being the dry weight + carrying capacity. Keep the total trailer weight 80-85% of the truck towing rating.

 

Then you have to figure out what your tongue weight is. Figure about 15% of the trailer weight. This is where most 1/2 tons lack capacity.

 

I really doubt your truck will pull what you are thinking of.

 

We have same setup and very similar TT's. Mine handled very well at 65 MPH on a very windy day (head and cross). Proper loading, a 1500 that is properly equipped,and proper hitch setup make the difference. Driver experience also DOES come into play. Much more comfortable with my 34' now than the first time I towed my 28' camper.

 

Each situation is different. You don't need a 2500 to tow everything larger than a lawn mower, but you need to evaluate the conditions and what YOUR needs are as well as what YOU are comfortable with. If that means a 2500 diesel to tow a 4000# trailer, than that is what you feel you need. Legally, I am within limits of truck and it handles very well.

 

I think the OP's question has been answered and this thread took a serious dive (like any with a tow question). Maybe a Mod should close it.

 

Sidebar on brakes: Proper towing also means proper brakes ON THE TRAILER. My trailer stops itself, and should a failure occur I am certain it will manage.

99-ls1-ss Enthusiast

99-ls1-ss

Posted
Posted

At 3-5 times a year if its not cross country I wouldn't worry much if the truck has a brake box, transmission cooler, at least a 3.42 rear end, and the trailers you're pulling have proper braking. A 5000lb boat also pulls easier because it's actually pretty aerodynamic from being designed to go through the water efficiently. Like I said just make sure you can stop it easily.

 

One unique advantage to a 2500 is if in the future you get a large heavy trailer, that might be too much for a 2500 you can upgrade the rear springs, and shocks to the 1 ton spec for about a $1,000. The front end on the 2500, & 3500 suspension are identical part number for part number. The rear axles are the same too. That, or the price difference between a 2500, and 3500 isn't big to begin with.

 

As for going with a diesel since you don't tow a lot. It depends on if your comfortable spending the extra money for the diesel which I think is around $8,500 above the price of the 6.0L. The ride is noticeably rougher with a 2500 because it's sweet spot ride wise is when is pulling a trailer.

Is the ride rougher than the 1500 with the Max Towing, since it has the heavier duty rear springs? I drove a High Country diesel 2500 and the ride wasn't that bad but, I also have a 84 C10 with a 3" lift and 33" kevlar tires. Anything rides smoother than that.

1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

Another issue I've seen with 1/2 ton trucks especially due to softer springs is when the drop hitch on the truck isn't the right size the nose of the trailer can be too low, or high. Also pulling a boat if the trailer weight is distributed more behind the axles due to the engine weight of the boat, this leads to the trailer "fishtailing" or basically the trailer sways left to right as you get to highway speeds. If the trailer is level, and it still does it. Make sure the tire pressure are at spec on the truck, and trailer. Max cold psi on the trailer is best. Then take 3-5 lbs of air pressure out of the front axle tires on a tandom axle trailer. This will help with the trailer sway by sending some of the weight towards the tongue. Hope this helps everyone!

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Is the ride rougher than the 1500 with the Max Towing, since it has the heavier duty rear springs? I drove a High Country diesel 2500 and the ride wasn't that bad but, I also have a 84 C10 with a 3" lift and 33" kevlar tires. Anything rides smoother than that.

I ran 2500 Dmax trucks for 10+ years before switching back to 1500's in 2015.

 

Today's 2500's ride much better than those from years ago. There is no doubt that a 1500 max Tow rides better than the 2500. The 2500 will ride better loaded than empty.
2500/3500 chassis (frame, front end and brakes) were changed starting with the 2011 model year and are a significant upgrade from the 2010 and earlier.
1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

Is the ride rougher than the 1500 with the Max Towing, since it has the heavier duty rear springs? I drove a High Country diesel 2500 and the ride wasn't that bad but, I also have a 84 C10 with a 3" lift and 33" kevlar tires. Anything rides smoother than that.

No difference in ride quality. The 2500 rides good, but I jump between the 2 so much I'm sensitive too it. The C10 is a world of difference, but I love C10 trucks!

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

At 3-5 times a year if its not cross country I wouldn't worry much if the truck has a brake box, transmission cooler, at least a 3.42 rear end, and the trailers you're pulling have proper braking. A 5000lb boat also pulls easier because it's actually pretty aerodynamic from being designed to go through the water efficiently. Like I said just make sure you can stop it easily.

 

One unique advantage to a 2500 is if in the future you get a large heavy trailer, that might be too much for a 2500 you can upgrade the rear springs, and shocks to the 1 ton spec for about a $1,000. The front end on the 2500, & 3500 suspension are identical part number for part number. The rear axles are the same too. That, or the price difference between a 2500, and 3500 isn't big to begin with.

 

As for going with a diesel since you don't tow a lot. It depends on if your comfortable spending the extra money for the diesel which I think is around $8,500 above the price of the 6.0L. The ride is noticeably rougher with a 2500 because it's sweet spot ride wise is when is pulling a trailer.

Making sure it will stop is a spot on recommendation.

 

Bumping the spec is a little misleading. 3500's have different specs for single wheel vs dually and for 6.0 vs Duramax (6.6)

 

For ball hitch trailering, the single wheel one ton ball hitch spec is the same as the 2500. It takes changing to the 3500 dually (drw) and 5th wheel or gooseneck to get a big bump in trailering spec. Springs and air bags might level an overloaded vehicle, but it will still be overloaded.

 

Of course, a dually means it is also an 8ft box.

 

1500 crew 4wd std box max tow 6.2 - 11,700

2500 crew 4wd std box 6.0 - 13,000 bumper pull (and it's the same rating for all 3 engine codes)

3500 crew 4wd std box 6.0 - 13,000 bumper pull (same rating as 2500, and again same for all 3 engine codes)

 

The dually long box, ball hitch:

3500 crew 4wd long box drw 6.0 - 13400, (20,000 with dmax)

Changing to 5th wheel or gooseneck:

3500 crew 4wd long box drw 6.0 - 13,300. (22,600 with dmax)

 

 

Ratings from the GM fleet order guide. Picking another truck configuration will give different, but similar, ratings.

http://www.gmfleetorderguide.com/NASApp/domestic/proddesc.jsp?year=2016&addOptions=true&regionID=1&divisionID=2&vehicleID=18904&section=trailer_specs&pagenum=2&butID=8

1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

Making sure it will stop is a spot on recommendation.

 

Bumping the spec is a little misleading. 3500's have different specs for single wheel vs dually and for 6.0 vs Duramax (6.6)

 

For ball hitch trailering, the single wheel one ton ball hitch spec is the same as the 2500. It takes changing to the 3500 dually (drw) and 5th wheel or gooseneck to get a big bump in trailering spec. Springs and air bags might level an overloaded vehicle, but it will still be overloaded.

 

Of course, a dually means it is also an 8ft box.

 

1500 crew 4wd std box max tow 6.2 - 11,700

2500 crew 4wd std box 6.0 - 13,000 bumper pull (and it's the same rating for all 3 engine codes)

3500 crew 4wd std box 6.0 - 13,000 bumper pull (same rating as 2500, and again same for all 3 engine codes)

 

The dually long box, ball hitch:

3500 crew 4wd long box drw 6.0 - 13400, (20,000 with dmax)

Changing to 5th wheel or gooseneck:

3500 crew 4wd long box drw 6.0 - 13,300. (22,600 with dmax)

 

 

Ratings from the GM fleet order guide. Picking another truck configuration will give different, but similar, ratings.

http://www.gmfleetorderguide.com/NASApp/domestic/proddesc.jsp?year=2016&addOptions=true&regionID=1&divisionID=2&vehicleID=18904&section=trailer_specs&pagenum=2&butID=8

Good point I should've clarified that better. Upgrading the rear leaf springs to the heavier 1 ton springs, and shocks was for us on a 5th wheel 43ft toy hauler that has a dry weight of 18,000lbs, and a tongue weight of 3,350. A good friend of ours did the same, and it handled his much better with the additional leafs.

vonshep Enthusiast

vonshep

Posted
Posted

Clearly butthurt because his 2500 can't fit into starbucks drive-thru. Lol

 

If they are within the towing and payload why do they need a 2500?? So 1500s are cruisers and if you want to tow a lawnmower you need a 2500?? Get real.

 

 

 

Sent from my Note 4 on Tapashit

those tow ratings are all lies just because GM says it can tow 9200 and the independent j208whatever SAE calls it confirms it don't matter . you cant even tow a lawn tractor unless you have a 3500 dually with retro rockets or you will surly lose control of the load and kill a bus load of nuns holding puppies .OH THE HUMANITY

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...