Jump to content

2016 Silverado buyer vibration?

silveradobuyer16

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Severado Enthusiast

Severado

Posted
Posted

My 2015 is in the shop now for the 5th or 6th time in 3 months of ownership. The 2016 crew cab LT loaner with 1500 miles on it shakes pretty friggin' bad. It needs motor mount shims and a RF balance for sure. Disgusting.

blk07sierra Enthusiast

blk07sierra

Posted
Posted

I have the vibration on my 15. It comes and goes like most of the others. I'm patiently waiting for a real fix for it. Doesn't really bother me. I know it's there but tune it out.

  • 1 month later...
Hailofatime New Member

Hailofatime

Posted
Posted

I just replaced my 2014 Silverado LTZ Z71 with a lightly used (4,200 miles) 2016 GMC Sierra Denali 1500 thinking moving up to the 6.2L engine and the 8-speed tranny was going to be a nice step up, not to mention getting my truck back to full warranty. The only thing that I had an issue with on my 2014 Chevy was the 6 speed transmission was pretty hard shifting and the 5.3 is somewhat lackluster in power when pulling anything, other than that, great truck. Long story short I purchased the GMC yesterday and on my 300 mile journey home I began noticing my passenger seat making a noise and vibrating a great deal. This persisted the entire trip at 70-80 mph. The vibration varies, but is so bad that I can't rest my head on the headrest without getting sick and is especially bad when cornering on the highway.

 

My question for anyone that has had this issue is should I head to the dealer, can't get me in until next week, and try and get this fixed? My other option as of right now is to take this truck back to the dealer I purchased it from and get my old truck back. I love everything else about this newer truck, but I don't want to deal with a headache of something that they may or may not be able to fix. I'd appreciate feedback from anyone who has had this issue.

 

My personal opinion is if you pay 50K for a truck, this isn't the way to get the massaging seats option.....

TexMex007 New Member

TexMex007

Posted
Posted

The dealer replaced both tires on the right side of my truck. Vibration went away. I expected it to come back when they rotated tires during oil change but no, so far it's been good.

steelcity Enthusiast

steelcity

Posted
Posted

My 2016 vibrated at speeds above around 71 or 72. Unloaded it for a 2016 Jeep Rubicon.

Gofas Enthusiast

Gofas

Posted
Posted

Demand test driving over all surfaces situations and long hwy duration. Put at least 100 miles on the truck test driving. These trucks have differences on how they drive and feel. So take your time test driving. Don't trust anyone except what you feel in the test driving. Don't go in blindly like I did.

Towerhog Enthusiast

Towerhog

Posted
Posted

New 2017 Dbl Cab standard box 6.2L 4x4.

 

Well, only 175 miles on her and Ive got the dreaded vibration. Happens around 66 mph (it does it at other speeds as well) while cruising with a very light load on the engine (1500 rpm), even happens while going up a slight incline (1-2 degrees), just as long as there is a light load on the engine. Going downhill, smooth as silk at any speed. The vibration seems to oscillate (vibration for 1-2 secs, then smooth for 1-2 secs, then repeats). I know its not the tires (just rotated them), vibration exactly the same. I played around with the engine rpm at 66 mph while it was in the vibrate mode. I notice the oscillating vibrations around 1500 rpms, when I shift to a lower gear (6th) while cruising, it raises the rpms to around 2500. Poof, vibrations disappear.

 

Havent been to the dealer as of yet, still trying to collect data on where it does it each and every time so I can sent the tech on that same route so I dont get a "problem can not be duplicated" answer when I pick up my vehicle. But it will go in sometime in the next 2 weeks for this. And yes. It was test driven before purchased.

Willyone Enthusiast

Willyone

Posted
Posted

Demand test driving over all surfaces situations and long hwy duration. Put at least 100 miles on the truck test driving. These trucks have differences on how they drive and feel. So take your time test driving. Don't trust anyone except what you feel in the test driving. Don't go in blindly like I did.

 

Good advice. I've had GM 4x4s for the last 30-35 years and never had any vibration issues. Went in and test drove my current '16 Z71 only to discover the vibration problem about a week or so after picking it up from the dealer, after a ride on the highway. Didn't test drive on the highway before buying it... very big mistake.

OmniCamaro Enthusiast

OmniCamaro

Posted
Posted

Mine came back after they rotated the tires. I'll be going through this crap all over again! Such an odd thing. It's severity isn't constant which is baffling.

 

Here's one video: https://youtu.be/JCXlz4sFT8Y

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

I suspect that what greatly contributes to these vibration problems is the factory transmission shift calibration, which forces the highest possible gear at low speed. this early shifting into high gear, combined with the AFM system cylinder deactivation, possibly at the same time, is most likely a huge contributor to vibration. I would try aftermarket tuning and turning the AFM off before zeroing in on something else.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

I have the vibration on my 15. It comes and goes like most of the others. I'm patiently waiting for a real fix for it. Doesn't really bother me. I know it's there but tune it out.

The "fix" is trading in the truck and passing the problem onto someone else.

OmniCamaro Enthusiast

OmniCamaro

Posted
Posted

The "fix" is trading in the truck and passing the problem onto someone else.

I wish I had that option! Like, really really wish!

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...