Jump to content

Where can one find reliable OEM Chevrolet parts online?

Silveroofer

By Silveroofer
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

Silveroofer New Member

Silveroofer

Posted
Posted

Hey everybody,

Has anybody come across a good reliable website for OEM genuine GM parts? I have seen many different websites online claiming to sell GM parts direct from General Motors. However, I have looked further into these websites & have found many bad reviews relating to them. Along with people who have had their money stolen by these websites. I figured somebody out there must know a rock solid website to order OEM GM parts from. Any suggestions would be a big help for many people!

---

My specific reason for this question is because of a off-roading accident with my 16 Silverado 2500HD WT. My air deflector & front bumper were damaged & require replacement. I figured if i'm going to replace the front bumper, I might as well replace it with the OEM front bumper equipped with fog light ports. However, many components are required & it will all cost a bit. The last thing I want to do is get scammed by a hack website or read about more people who have gotten scammed.

Thanks!

post-167446-0-85115500-1486154482_thumb.jpg

post-167446-0-87395000-1486154492_thumb.jpg

post-167446-0-85115500-1486154482_thumb.jpg

post-167446-0-87395000-1486154492_thumb.jpg

post-167446-0-85115500-1486154482_thumb.jpg

post-167446-0-87395000-1486154492_thumb.jpg

post-167446-0-85115500-1486154482_thumb.jpg

post-167446-0-87395000-1486154492_thumb.jpg

cody251 Enthusiast

cody251

Posted
Posted

I've had luck with a few, and honestly, eBay has several dealerships that do discount business there. No special names, but you know what dealership you are buying from.

 

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

Have you considered trying to see if a local dealer can compete/price match one of the various GM online retailers? I've had some folks ask me in the past and I've gained a couple sales (part was in stock and they needed it asap kind of deal). Your dealer would appreciate the business I'm sure.

 

Some of those dealers that sell online will sell you the part for next to nothing, but then rape you on shipping and make their money they lose up front back really fast.

Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

Many years ago, gmpartsdirect.com was all the rage on here and I've used them several times to order parts from, no problems ever.

Silveroofer New Member

Silveroofer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Many years ago, gmpartsdirect.com was all the rage on here and I've used them several times to order parts from, no problems ever.

I was looking at them & noticed two websites. "www.gmpartsdirect.com" & "www.gmpartsdirect.co". Which you would assume is likely the same people. However, they have different logo's posted on each site. Although it appears each site uses the same platform.

 

After looking up reviews for the ".com" site I found a public page rating them at 1/10 with many people who struggled to reach customer service. Or, they had recieved the wrong parts. However, I found great reviews pretaining to the ".co" site. I noticed the listed prices on each site was different as well. The ".co" listing higher prices than the ".com" site.

 

Which all lead me to believe the ".com" site may be some sort of knock off site of the ".co" site. I can't really say for sure though.

Silveroofer New Member

Silveroofer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Have you considered trying to see if a local dealer can compete/price match one of the various GM online retailers? I've had some folks ask me in the past and I've gained a couple sales (part was in stock and they needed it asap kind of deal). Your dealer would appreciate the business I'm sure.

 

Some of those dealers that sell online will sell you the part for next to nothing, but then rape you on shipping and make their money they lose up front back really fast.

I've thought about just going to the dealer, although I haven't thought about whether or not they may match or compete an online price. It would be worth a shot, no doubt. I'll give it a go.

 

An I definitely hear you on the shipping. I've looked at a few shipping rates for a bumper, (which I understand is a big ass box) & it comes out to damn near 1/3 of the cost of the bumper

Big Whiskey Senior Enthusiast

Big Whiskey

Posted
Posted

I agree with the others. Shipping costs for a whole bumper will probably negate any "savings" you might find online. I'd shop around at a few dealers within driving distance. No shipping/handling costs to deal with, and a much better chance of them making things right if there's a problem of any kind.

  • 4 weeks later...
KLRV6 Enthusiast

KLRV6

Posted
Posted

For the parts you are looking to replace, I would go to the dealer and ask to get the best price for all. If you order a fender or bumper online and it's damaged you will be weeks behind in your repair and still may not get a good one the second time... or third.

 

I am looking to replace all the springs on my 15 with ones from a 17. The local dealer is within $50 of major internet GM parts houses. So in this case, the local dealer ends up making at a sale a better price than the online guys. This is not always true for all parts though and sometimes the local dealer is twice what the online have a part for.

azsheepdog Enthusiast

azsheepdog

Posted
Posted

Just did a tow mirror upgrade on my 16 LT. Bought the mirrors and harnesses in a bundle on ebay. They had the best price i could find out there.

  • 2 years later...
djm86 New Member

djm86

Posted
Posted

Warning: gmpartsheadquarters.com

 

I think I got ripped off - order went through yesterday, got the web based confirmation with order # - it said I would receive a confirmation e-mail within 5 minutes... did not get one.  Have not been able to reach customer service via phone or e-mail, literally no response.  BEWARE!!!!

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, djm86 said:

Warning: gmpartsheadquarters.com

 

I think I got ripped off - order went through yesterday, got the web based confirmation with order # - it said I would receive a confirmation e-mail within 5 minutes... did not get one.  Have not been able to reach customer service via phone or e-mail, literally no response.  BEWARE!!!!

...well, if you paid via credit card, it's easy enough to get your money back...

djm86 New Member

djm86

Posted
Posted

Right, I did use credit and I will... as for others, don't use your debit, or this website at all... pitiful or fraudulent, either way not cool

BigBlueLB756 Senior Enthusiast

BigBlueLB756

Posted
Posted

Here's three.  Shop to your heart's content.

https://www.gmpartsprime.com/

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/

https://www.cheapestgmparts.com/

 

They're all valid GM sources.

  • 1 month later...
Chad Walker Enthusiast

Chad Walker

Posted
Posted

Ebay isn't a terrible source for that sort of thing.  Tasca auto parts is great.  I have bought a bunch of parts from them over the years for my F150.  

Become friends with the parts counter guy at your local dealer.  They should be able to give you 10% off which is fairly standard from a lot of online shops.  

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...