Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone have a lot of vibration in there tow mirrors when on the highway ? Mine shake a lot and not sure how to fix them. Maybe a tension screw to tighten ?

Posted

Try removing mirrors and checking the plastic connection to the metal backing, i just installed my mirrors this weekend and right out of the box the plastic was loose,  i heated it up with a torch lighter and pressed the plastic onto the metal with the head of a 1/4" bolt

Posted
15 hours ago, Tauro_Z71 said:

Try removing mirrors and checking the plastic connection to the metal backing, i just installed my mirrors this weekend and right out of the box the plastic was loose,  i heated it up with a torch lighter and pressed the plastic onto the metal with the head of a 1/4" bolt

What area are you referring to ? The actual upper glass plastic ? 

Posted
[mention=159655]pgamboa[/mention]
 
Do the cargo light switch work  while in reverse? I never tried before jumping the fuse block. 

Yes. The Cargo light activates with the switch. If I recall, it works on all gears except while in drive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I've been wanting tow mirrors since I bought my new to me 2017! This is a great thread with some very good information, but now I have more questions than ever. I haven't read through all 136 pages, but did read the first 20 or so and the last 30 and I'll try to read more before asking alredy answered questions. It seems like the biggest confusion on adding tow mirrors is on the harnesses that are needed

Posted
I've been wanting tow mirrors since I bought my new to me 2017! This is a great thread with some very good information, but now I have more questions than ever. I haven't read through all 136 pages, but did read the first 20 or so and the last 30 and I'll try to read more before asking alredy answered questions. It seems like the biggest confusion on adding tow mirrors is on the harnesses that are needed

I make this super easy now and build the harnesses specifically for your truck and the mirrors you want to upgrade to. It’ll be PnP for your truck. PM for more info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

TIME OFF NOTICE:

 

I will be taking some time off between 10/30 - 11/9.  I will have very limited access to cell service/internet and will respond as I am able to.  

 

For any orders placed during this time, those orders will be fulfilled when operations resume (in the order they came in) on 11/10.

 

I will aim to ship all open orders before I go and will provide my best lead time expectation for any new orders. 

 

Thanks all!

 

Orders can be placed on my new website - www.HarnessDR.com

 

  • Like 2
Posted
6 hours ago, Mike619 said:

How do I order the harnesses?

Go to HarnessDR and at the top mouse over "Vehicle Make".  It will bring down a drop menu, mouse over either "Chevrolet" or "GMC" and it will open up a ton of harnesses that are available to purchase.  Just find the one you need or if you need help, send pgamboa a message and he will help you!  GL

  • Like 1
Posted
How do I order the harnesses?

You can also send me a PM here to validate your truck and needs first. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Go to HarnessDR and at the top mouse over "Vehicle Make".  It will bring down a drop menu, mouse over either "Chevrolet" or "GMC" and it will open up a ton of harnesses that are available to purchase.  Just find the one you need or if you need help, send pgamboa a message and he will help you!  GL

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
On 10/19/2019 at 5:50 PM, Flameout said:

I've been wanting tow mirrors since I bought my new to me 2017! This is a great thread with some very good information, but now I have more questions than ever. I haven't read through all 136 pages, but did read the first 20 or so and the last 30 and I'll try to read more before asking alredy answered questions. It seems like the biggest confusion on adding tow mirrors is on the harnesses that are needed

I could not wait 2 months, got the Plug n play from Phil aka harness Dr. (Do not swap those names in a search online) and use memory 1 for tight mirror to see down the sides of truck and memory 2 to move them out for better blind spot area (mine is a LTZ with memory of course). This how the truck should have come from the factory.

 

 

IMG_3585.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

Great looking truck!

Yes - www.HarnessDR.com

:)

Thanks again!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Just want to say thanks to@pgamboa for doing this write-up and for the DIY harness. Easy to do and easy to follow steps.

Also. For anyone that screw up like me and puts the wire in the wrong hole for the X510/X610 you can remove it with a small screwdriver. Just put it in the hole above the pin and push out. Hard to see but I took a pic of how I did it below.

 

f235b65a040742ebf977bc0388047fcb.jpg

ba0b64c01da1d5feacdecbb81a229d07.jpg

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 

Edited by gabbygenier

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...