Jump to content

SURPRISE: 2019 Silverado unveiled in Texas during 100 year celebration

Zane

By Zane
in Article & Review Archive (Pre-2019)

Recommended Posts

sk Senior Enthusiast

sk

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, EChavez said:

Those steering wheel controls remind me of the Tesla Model X. Interested in seeing how GM handles it.

Those steering wheel controls are already available in some GM vehicles (most of the new Buicks, the new Traverse and Equinox, and some others).

  • Replies 143
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Loco-diablo Senior Enthusiast

Loco-diablo

Posted
Posted
Now this is the truck I've been waiting for. Didn't like the last version much except for the CC LTZ's. 

What made the CC LTZ stand out from the rest for styling?
All have the same nose, rear, interior, etc...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
jimmyboy8301 Senior Enthusiast

jimmyboy8301

Posted
Posted

What made the CC LTZ stand out from the rest for styling?
All have the same nose, rear, interior, etc...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Chrome grille inserts, led lighting , chrome trim


2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L
4.5" Zone
22x10 American Force Grips
33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
Instagram @wildchevys
Northman Enthusiast

Northman

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, Loco-diablo said:


What made the CC LTZ stand out from the rest for styling?
All have the same nose, rear, interior, etc...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Different wheels, trim, grills, or a combination of all of these I guess. I actually liked the 2014/2015 fronts in the LTZ. After 2015 not so much. I liked the new grills in the pictures but in person they looked like a little "gaudy". Like a desperate attempt to toughen up the look? Something like that.

 

Don't get me wrong they look ok, just not something I would buy. When they are lifted a little with bigger tires etc, they look good. Lots of people like them though so what do I know :)

revrnd Senior Enthusiast

revrnd

Posted
Posted

Reading an article in the Toronto Star from Bloomberg, they state that braking by wire will be intro'd on the new pickups, eliminating several metal parts. Any idea what they are talking about?

RDKILL Enthusiast

RDKILL

Posted
Posted
On 12/20/2017 at 1:30 PM, EChavez said:

I agree with you, I think we all felt this way about the K2's in 2014 and the slightly updated front ends on the 16's etc. This new T1 is a bit much to take in, but the more I look at it the more I like it. Really want to see the Denali interior and all the small improvements GM is saying they'll make.

 

Since trucks have seem to have taken off again in popularity here's hoping for another Silverado SS maybe even Sierra SS. ZR1 7.0 liter anyone?

I agree...take the lead and have a RCSB SS ZL1 LE AWD! Bring back the Cyclone on full size mode!

Ok, back to reality, the next move will be an All Electric Silverado...sad!

  • 3 weeks later...
ksfarmdude Enthusiast

ksfarmdude

Posted
Posted

I'm not a fan of painted bumpers and wheels too much black trim makes it look tacky I like chrome appearance easier to clean and maintain so from the pic that I'm seeing on here that color and trim scheme wouldn't interest me

  • 2 months later...
MountainBound118 Enthusiast

MountainBound118

Posted
Posted

When they unveiled this, and them the new sierra, I decided to start upfitting my 2016, rather than looking for a new one like I usually do every 2 years. 

 

Sorry, I just don't like it. The outside is too ford to me, and the inside doesn't offer enough of a refresh. 

 

I like some of the features they're coming out with, but, not feeling it. It may grow on me. I know when the 2003s came out I HATED them. Now I like them the best out of that body style. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...