Jump to content

krzyd's 2014 Denali


krzyd

Recommended Posts

Posted

The Beginning

 

These build threads are always inspiring and there is some amazing work and creativity out there. So I have decided to make some significant changes to my DD, it started life as a run of the mill 2014 Denali 5.3 4WD with 20" chrome rims and the BS Goodyear tires that came stock. 

 

20140406_160342.jpg

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Life went on as it does, and I made some minor changes, I did a resonator delete and added an INGEN CAI with a Diablo tune. I added wireless phone charging to the center console, kicker subwoofer. HID headlamps, putco luminix fogs added, as well as led on all aux lighting. I also replaced shocks (Rancho's 1.5 ' level lift) and shoehorned 34.5" tires underneath, and Hellwig swaybars front and back.

20170321_124010.jpg

20180118_162701

 

I added a LineX bed and tool box.

20161019_161150

 

 

Posted

At some point I decided I needed lights under the hood.

20161112_122922

 

Posted

So this has all been very vanilla and unexciting, and maybe what's to come will end up being MEH, I don't know. These are big plans to me, so here goes, the truck is going under the knife next week or so for about a month, here are the plans:

 

-3/5 drop, 22" Foose wheels, these in gunmetal finish, undecided on tire size yet, depends on fitment, going as wide as possible in backSpider-Black-Machine-w_1000_2105.png

-Whipple supercharger (9psi boost planned), gunmetal powdercoating on body, reservoir will approx 3x larger, and possibly a larger intercooler, cuz Florida, the goal is 450 to the wheels.

LT1_CAD_800.jpg

-Dual exhaust with cutouts after cats, black tips, barely visible

-Nerf bar delete (obviously)

-Mechanical AFM delete

-Wheel well trim painted body color

-Chrome delete for most trim/door handles in favor of body color

-Grill insert, Denali logo and door bumper strips will be gunmetal

 

That is my current vision, let's see how it progresses.

Posted

I like that you are leveling your truck by lowering it. It will look nice. Hopefully not too low, just nice as it should come as a sport pkg from the factory.


Sent from device. Excuse errors.

Posted

Tuned in... this should be a solid investment in $$$ and forum enjoyment!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Slight light with 34.5" tires to 3/5 drop with 22" rims is quite a different direction!  With that much of a drop a 24" rim would look killer!

 

Good luck on the build and update us on the progress!

Posted

So Foose doesn't make many 6 lug wheels, I've changed to this. I will get the first set in the U.S., so I'm told.:rolleyes:

niche_wheels_m204_vosso_gloss_anthracite

Posted
1 hour ago, CMoore711 said:

Slight light with 34.5" tires to 3/5 drop with 22" rims is quite a different direction!  With that much of a drop a 24" rim would look killer!

 

Good luck on the build and update us on the progress!

I agree, I don't want to give up too much ride/handling though.

Posted

So finallized parts orders today, with a couple of changes, changed supercharger to Magnacharger unit, something about the bypass actuator design, and better warranty. Oh...added one of these to each corner :).

brake_kit_140-8992-D-med-lg.jpg

Should have enough parts to get started next week!!!

Posted
On 1/18/2018 at 12:55 PM, krzyd said:

So finallized parts orders today, with a couple of changes, changed supercharger to Magnacharger unit, something about the bypass actuator design, and better warranty. Oh...added one of these to each corner :).

brake_kit_140-8992-D-med-lg.jpg

Should have enough parts to get started next week!!!

those are the ones I want. But need to see if I'm keeping the 24" Also want small in the rear for slicks. PLEASE photos and write up on them. 

I find braking have been compromised. With the boost on there is no vacuum and the pedal isn't "right" there. 

Is there a power level you are trying to hit? 9lb is 500ish power. Or 620hp at the flywheel. 

Have you thought about Meth/alcohol/water. On a boost switch and a controller it is amazing!!!!  

Posted
On 1/16/2018 at 4:19 PM, CMoore711 said:

Slight light with 34.5" tires to 3/5 drop with 22" rims is quite a different direction!  With that much of a drop a 24" rim would look killer!

 

Good luck on the build and update us on the progress!

I have that rim and that drop. Looks and drives great but traction with that rim is another issue. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/25/2018 at 11:36 AM, 1SLOW1500 said:

those are the ones I want. But need to see if I'm keeping the 24" Also want small in the rear for slicks. PLEASE photos and write up on them. 

I find braking have been compromised. With the boost on there is no vacuum and the pedal isn't "right" there. 

Is there a power level you are trying to hit? 9lb is 500ish power. Or 620hp at the flywheel. 

Have you thought about Meth/alcohol/water. On a boost switch and a controller it is amazing!!!!  

I would like to be 500 to the wheels,  I've looked at the Meth systems, seems like a cost effective add. I kind of want to see how the current plans change my world view :).

 

 

Posted

Brakes are finally here, everything else confirmed next week, so truck is going in next Friday, I'm going to get a couple of the cosmetic things done early next week, so there will be some actual progress pics soon.

20180130_153438

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...