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Remove rear block to level truck

Mileguru

By Mileguru
in Modifications & Accessories

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Mileguru Enthusiast

Mileguru

Posted
Posted

Have any of you ever removed the rear block to level (or somewhat level) the truck? I have a 2017 Sierra 1500 SLT Crew Cab and am just trying to level it. I have no need to lift it and will not be towing anything at any point. It seems like just removing the rear block would be less invasive than messing with the geometry of the front end with a 5100 set at max height.

 

4 Wheel Parts has a great President's Day sale on the adjustable 5100s + free install (great deal for the fronts) + $152 alignment + tax...so $535 out the door price for me in southern CA. But removing the rear block is free.

 

My goal is to level the truck as much as I can and probably keep the stock tire size.

I have a supercharger too, so maybe lowering the rear an inch and a half is better than raising the front.

 

Is it a wise idea to remove the rear block to accomplish this level?????

austingta Enthusiast

austingta

Posted
Posted

Sounds reasonable to me. Especially with your supercharger. It may handle better than stock with it removed. 

 

I have no idea what is involved or whether it's a good idea. Someone will chime in soon!

SirenRed16 Senior Enthusiast

SirenRed16

Posted
Posted

Removing the rear block will give you 1.25" but I believe you will need longer u bolts for the leaf springs. If you want perfect level you'll need 2" shackles and either removing the block or flipping the block from under the leaf springs to the top of the leaf springs.

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KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

I removed the blocks on my 14, didn’t need to get any added parts.


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StinkyCheese Senior Enthusiast

StinkyCheese

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Mileguru said:

Have any of you ever removed the rear block to level (or somewhat level) the truck? I have a 2017 Sierra 1500 SLT Crew Cab and am just trying to level it. I have no need to lift it and will not be towing anything at any point. It seems like just removing the rear block would be less invasive than messing with the geometry of the front end with a 5100 set at max height.

 

4 Wheel Parts has a great President's Day sale on the adjustable 5100s + free install (great deal for the fronts) + $152 alignment + tax...so $535 out the door price for me in southern CA. But removing the rear block is free.

 

My goal is to level the truck as much as I can and probably keep the stock tire size.

I have a supercharger too, so maybe lowering the rear an inch and a half is better than raising the front.

 

Is it a wise idea to remove the rear block to accomplish this level?????

 

Well crap I saw their sale but didn't see the free install part.  Ordered a set of 4600s from Amazon Sunday.  I guess I'll be installing them myself.  If you haven't ordered from 4wheelparts yet try coupon code 4WPAFEXAPR5 for another 5% off.  I don't know if it specifically works with Topcashback or not, supposedly another 6% cashback if you go through that CB site as well.  With all that it would have come out about the same as amazon and not having to install myself.

  • 1 year later...
grav898 Enthusiast

grav898

Posted
Posted

I installed a set of Bilstein 5100s on my '16 Silverado yesterday and immediately started wondering if removing the leaf blocks is a good idea with these shocks? 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
On 12/3/2019 at 9:02 AM, grav898 said:

I installed a set of Bilstein 5100s on my '16 Silverado yesterday and immediately started wondering if removing the leaf blocks is a good idea with these shocks? 

What is your concern? 

grav898 Enthusiast

grav898

Posted
Posted

My #1 concern is that the shock will run deeper in the valving and either ruin the ride quality or bottom out. 

 

ALSO i have read numerous comments about re-using the stock u-bolts where some people say you don't need to add washers or spacers and some people say you absolutely do. I cannot seem to find a clear concise answer on this. And then you have people saying to replace the u-bolts.

 

Thanks in advance for any help on the matter as I really want to remove the blocks to accomplish some sort of rear leveling of the truck.

SierraHD17 Senior Enthusiast

SierraHD17

Posted
Posted

I pulled mine on my 15 and reused the u bolts.  The damn things weren't hardly more than finger tight when I went to take it apart so I wasn't concerned... other than I had been driving around with loose u bolts from the factory.  The truck rode exactly the same and nothing changed beyond 1" lower rear ride height.  

pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, grav898 said:

My #1 concern is that the shock will run deeper in the valving and either ruin the ride quality or bottom out. 

 

ALSO i have read numerous comments about re-using the stock u-bolts where some people say you don't need to add washers or spacers and some people say you absolutely do. I cannot seem to find a clear concise answer on this. And then you have people saying to replace the u-bolts.

 

Thanks in advance for any help on the matter as I really want to remove the blocks to accomplish some sort of rear leveling of the truck.

The 5100 rear shocks are actually 1" longer than the factory shocks, so I wouldn't run them without the rear block.  Unless you add shock extensions like these http://mcgaughys.com/products/rear-shock-extenders-34044 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, grav898 said:

My #1 concern is that the shock will run deeper in the valving and either ruin the ride quality or bottom out. 

 

ALSO i have read numerous comments about re-using the stock u-bolts where some people say you don't need to add washers or spacers and some people say you absolutely do. I cannot seem to find a clear concise answer on this. And then you have people saying to replace the u-bolts.

 

Thanks in advance for any help on the matter as I really want to remove the blocks to accomplish some sort of rear leveling of the truck.

Shocks work best when they are mid stroke as you would be normally loaded and sitting on the ground. The factory shock is sized for this task at full payload. Meaning if your normal is empty they are more than 3 inches above centered in the stroke. They top out frequently. Your good to go. I run stock length Kings on a 3-1/2 drop and have for years. 

 

The U bolts are NOT torque to yield. They are not magic fasteners. If it makes you nervous replace them. If not don't. That fastener won't care one way or the other. 

mitchely03 Enthusiast

mitchely03

Posted
Posted

removing the rear block on my 15 silverado needed no extra parts. But the rear end feels a little more springy now...

 

 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, mitchely03 said:

removing the rear block on my 15 silverado needed no extra parts. But the rear end feels a little more springy now...

 

 

Likely. It is no longer sitting at the top of it's travel. :thumbs:

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