Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I always thought the upgrade had to be programmed to your vin, I have no use for nav which most of them want to sell you, I just want Android Auto. If I buy a 2.5 module and usb port this will be plug and play?

Posted

It has to be programmed to your vin otherwise it won’t work.  Digital dash Solutions is where I got my CarPlay HMI.

Posted (edited)

Supposedly, the guy I ordered it from on EBay programmed it to my VIN. 

 

If that that ends up not being the case, this forum, YouTube and eBay will know the truth. 

Edited by Darmichar
Posted
37 minutes ago, Druder said:

I always thought the upgrade had to be programmed to your vin, I have no use for nav which most of them want to sell you, I just want Android Auto. If I buy a 2.5 module and usb port this will be plug and play?

Read through the YouTube comments. It seems that if your truck is a 2015 or newer your odds are much better. 

 

It it does appear the android requires a little more bandwidth than iOS, but the upgraded 2015’ or newer seems to be able to handle it better. 

Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, Darmichar said:

Read through the YouTube comments. It seems that if your truck is a 2015 or newer your odds are much better. 

 

It it does appear the android requires a little more bandwidth than iOS, but the upgraded 2015’ or newer seems to be able to handle it better. 

 

 

14 hours ago, Darmichar said:

Supposedly, the guy I ordered it from on EBay programmed it to my VIN. 

 

If that that ends up not being the case, this forum, YouTube and eBay will know the truth. 

I think you’ve gotten an error message if the HMI wasn’t programmed to your VIN. I think you’re right on having to have at least a 2015.5 model in order for CarPlay to work. Anything before that, the hardware probably can’t handle the phone projection correctly   

Edited by risk235
  • Like 1
Posted

It is crazy to me that in the course of 3 model years they changed so much with just the radio. I would love to have android auto or mirroring but I'm at the point where if I keep adding stuff from the 16+ I might as well have just bought one. Anything over $400 is going to be a hard pass for me when it comes to this radio.

Posted
2 hours ago, Druder said:

It is crazy to me that in the course of 3 model years they changed so much with just the radio. I would love to have android auto or mirroring but I'm at the point where if I keep adding stuff from the 16+ I might as well have just bought one. Anything over $400 is going to be a hard pass for me when it comes to this radio.

Wait this out with me. If I have to go full tilt I will have spent:

$115 for the HMI, delivered

$24 for the USB, delivered

~$299 for the radio module if I have to go that far. 

 

That's far better than the ~$600-700 I would have had to spend to replace it all with aftermarket. 

 

I'm into this truck for two or three more years so this is worth it to me. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I went ahead and ordered the HMI and USB connector for my 2015.5 

It should get here Thursday. I will provide an update after I install it. Hopefully all goes and  I don’t need to get the radio updated but if need be I’ll do it. 

Posted (edited)

Ok, so I received the 13509942 plug today, plugged it in, plugged my phone in and...  it worked! (kinda)

 

I have music, I have maps, i have SMS (kinda).  Siri is muted.  The interface activates and the line squiggles, she can hear me, but she apparently has laryngitis.

 

Here's the disclaimer, I'm running the beta of iOS 12 on my phone.  I don't want to revert because I've been on it for a while and I would have to go back to my most recent backup from like 2 months ago.  Too much data loss for me. 

 

Right now I have what I wanted out of Carplay.  I can still listen to music and apple maps shows up on the screen.  

 

Once iOS 12 officially releases and the new version of Carplay releases with it, I'll assess the damage then and proceed accordingly.

 

*EDIT* Forgot to add, since Siri is muted, she reads your SMS messages to you, so it all works you just can't hear what she's saying.

Edited by Darmichar
  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Darmichar said:

Ok, so I received the 13509942 plug today, plugged it in, plugged my phone in and...  it worked! (kinda)

 

I have music, I have maps, i have SMS (kinda).  Siri is muted.  The interface activates and the line squiggles, she can hear me, but she apparently has laryngitis.

 

Here's the disclaimer, I'm running the beta of iOS 12 on my phone.  I don't want to revert because I've been on it for a while and I would have to go back to my most recent backup from like 2 months ago.  Too much data loss for me. 

 

Right now I have what I wanted out of Carplay.  I can still listen to music and apple maps shows up on the screen.  

 

Once iOS 12 officially releases and the new version of Carplay releases with it, I'll assess the damage then and proceed accordingly.

 

*EDIT* Forgot to add, since Siri is muted, she reads your SMS messages to you, so it all works you just can't hear what she's saying.

Glad it worked it out for you (sort of). I

will post an update of my experience once I install it. BTW how hard is it to replace the USB connector. Any tips?

Edited by risk235
  • Like 1
Posted
40 minutes ago, risk235 said:

Glad it worked it out for you (sort of). I

will post an update of my experience once I install it. BTW how hard is it to replace the USB connector. Any tips?

If you have the armrest jump seat, take the rubber insert out of the plastic cupholder piece and take the 4 screws and the plastic piece out.  There is a USB plug and a 10 pin plug, the 10 pin is tied off inside pretty short and you wont be able to connect it without removing the cup holders.  The rubber piece just pulls out, it doesn't feel like it will, but t does.

Posted

When I posted that earlier, I was home with my 4 year old daughter and didn't really have a chance to hammer on it and see what worked and what didn't.

 

I was able to take a drive tonight and the only thing that doesn't work is Siri talking to me, there's just no audio.  Siri can hear me, and can do what I ask her to do.  I asked for directions to the local grocery store, there are three of them, three options popped up and I chose the one I wanted.

 

That said, the only thing I currently don't have is Siri reading my text messages to me.  That's probably a deal breaker for most but I don't get many texts, and I really don't care if I can't hear them while I'm driving.

 

I started this to get two things, the apple music interface on my truck stereo, which I got, and apple maps, which I now have.  If Siri ever graces me with her voice in my truck, it will be a bonus.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...