Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

image.png.af4fa6f7eca0945d819713118f0c8f28.png

 

Out of curiosity I charted the number of pages of posts by month to see if a trend is forming.  My leaks were all after washing, not rain because I'm in California.  But still not exactly scientific because obviously leaks are gonna be noticed more in the wet months so impossible to say it's temperature related... Still interesting.  We'll see if there is another massive spike in Jan/Feb.

  • Like 5
Posted
2 hours ago, n8huntsman said:

My second window failed after exactly one year, to the day.  I noticed after washing it both times.  This time was shortly after our first frost.  Thermal cycling maybe?  Took about 9 days to replace with another new window.  I took it to a different dealer this time.  They did a much better job but unfortunately the damage had already been done by the first dealer.  However, as soon as I opened the door I immediately heard the sound of the pressure equalization flapper valve between the cap and bed.  Took a peak in there and guess what!  It was dislodged again lying between the bed and cab just like last time.  Took them over a month to get the part last time and a week to install it.  This time they ordered the part in about a week and we'll see how long the install takes.  They have to remove the bed to get to it apparently.  I've got a case open with GM waiting to see if theyll do a buy back.  I had the caulk job done, and now two windows so that should count as 3 repairs for the same issue.  If they don't do something to satisfy me I'll investigate the lemon law route because I have zero faith that this new window wont be leaking come next November.

Can someone from GM just please read this, this is too common with this attempted repair, and why people are frustrated!

  • Like 1
Posted
Doesn't the lemon law only go for the 1st year of ownership?
Depends on the state. Some allow for duration of warranty.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted
Can someone from GM just please read this, this is too common with this attempted repair, and why people are frustrated!
I have a simple fix for the bulk of GM's problems. They need to stop telling suppliers to "sharpen your pencils". I knew a guy who was a GM supplier. He gave them the best price for the best parts that he could provide. He got fed up with GM coming back to him every time he submitted a competitive bid, being told "sharpen your pencil". Last I heard he became a beta tester with HPTuners, started doing work for other companies, and started working with some NASCAR teams for electronic tuning when the cars jumped over to EFI. To him, "sharpen your pencils" was another way of saying, "use inferior products". Look at what it has done to GM over the decades. GM isn't alone with this problem. "Saticficing" seems to be a business term GM hasn't figured out yet.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Well I picked up my truck from a detailer and he told me my rear window leaked a little. Scheduled for the dealership to see it Friday. After reading this thread I’m not super excited about all this.  It’s a 2020 1500 RST crew cab that I got in January.  Really enjoy the truck but not thrilled about a possible repeating issue like this happening. Wish me luck. 

Posted (edited)

2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ (Black Ops edition by Tuscany). 

Not sure how to check when it was built but according to my VIN it was in Mexico.  I cant seem to find the date on the door.  

 

I joined the leaky rear window club yesterday morning.  Well probably before then since I had weird moisture building up on the interior of the cab and for some reason my windows just kept getting fogged up so easily.  Driver side is leaking pretty good, passenger side is a couple drips. 

I called the dealership and I'm scheduled for Dec 18th and they wont let me have a loaner.  They want to charge me $35 a day to get a rental car through them.  I opened a case with GM already.

 

After reading about 120 of the 173 pages here, I'm tempted to do the silicone fix since I'm pretty good with shipboard electronics and use the marine stuff already.  I'm just not too familiar with cars/truck maintenance repairs if its not an oil change or tire change.  I'd also have to rent a dry space/garage since my truck doesn't fit in mine. 

 

I'm really concerned with water getting in and since its freezing at night here in Washington it will just cause further damage.  Which I suspect is what triggered the water to be large enough for me to see it now.  I've got a waterproof truck cover on its way but its going to be a huge hassle taking that off and on if I want to drive the truck and now on rainy days I need to leave it covered at home.  I feel extremely robbed of the new car/truck experience from GM.  I really wish there was a recall and permanent fix from GM already.  I love the truck even though this will be the second time in the shop(a front left shaft broke already, J, F, or S, I don't remember but I still have the paperwork).  I've owned the truck for 4 months and its spent 1/5th of its time at the dealership and with this it will only extend the time spent away from me.  

 

 

Edit 1, Dec 3rd:  Changed dealerships to fix my truck.  Going 30mins further to the next chevy dealership since the tech I talked with knew exactly what my problem was and said he just fixed one two weeks ago and I'm having the exact symptoms.  Still they don't have a loaner vehicle either... its a Chevy Equinox for $35 a day.....  

Edited by jason1derful
Posted

I'd go to a different dealership. I did not buy my truck from the dealership that I have handle my warranty issues and they have no problem giving me a loaner (car) for as long as I need.

Posted
38 minutes ago, Jac365 said:

I'd go to a different dealership. I did not buy my truck from the dealership that I have handle my warranty issues and they have no problem giving me a loaner (car) for as long as I need.

X2

Posted
On 11/28/2020 at 10:24 PM, RadBrad said:

This would be great news if indeed there is a new design for that back window that has a more robust frame.  I think that just might help mitigate some of these leakers.  

I might be able to tell you soon. Mine is going in for new window tomorrow. I’ll see if I can get the part number off it or any other info from them. Hoping they don’t mess up my truck putting it in...

 

Posted

Well, update on mine. Went in on Monday for new exhaust, there was a rattle at cold start and they found something broke off inside... and the new window that came in. They fixed the exhaust Monday but didn’t get to the window... then on Tuesday their “window” guy had an emergency and couldn’t get to my truck. Then today I get a call that he removed my old window but when they went to get the new one they saw a hole in the box and then they found a “blemish” on the window frame on the outside portion. They texted me and sent me the pic I’ve attached and said that they don’t think I want that window and I said NO! So now I’m waiting until next Monday for the newest window to arrive! Ugh.... and so it continues.... I just texted my service guy and asked him to look at my old window tomorrow and see if there are any cracks and to send me pics as I’m keeping track of everything for when this new window fails and I have bullets for GMC....

067180FB-3D9E-482B-A172-65BEB8953BAE.jpeg

Posted

Just looked over my paperwork from the window installed last week. It is the new part number 84944319. The frame might be a bit thicker but without measuring the old one with a caliper I can't be sure. If anyone measures theirs I can measure mine too ?

Posted
On 12/2/2020 at 10:18 PM, n8huntsman said:

Just looked over my paperwork from the window installed last week. It is the new part number 84944319. The frame might be a bit thicker but without measuring the old one with a caliper I can't be sure. If anyone measures theirs I can measure mine too ?

 

Can you post a picture of your new glass like this ?

 

 

 

image.thumb.png.5113b10b5a862b982adbf471381eb4ab.png

Posted (edited)
On 12/4/2020 at 2:51 AM, UGADawgs said:

 

Can you post a picture of your new glass like this ?

 

Here are my numbers on the window. Also, the frame measured about .160" from the glass to the plastic frame. 

 

Resized_20201204_122150.jpeg

Resized_20201204_121814.jpeg

Edited by n8huntsman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Counterpoint.   There is no used EV trucks on the market sub $30,000 with low mileage or no mileage.  Cheapest F150 Lightning I can find is $30,500 and its got 66,000mi.  Next cheapest was $33,000 and had 81,000mi.  So going on 5 years old, and that leaves only 2-3 years left of battery warranty, or 20,000-40,000mi left of that time.     Maverick has the hybrid but its still ICE, and Colorado/Canyon/Frontier/Tacoma/Ranger are all ICE.  If someone was set on an EV, they wouldn't cross shop.  
    • Oil change before Thursday's track day at NCM    
    • $2.69 yesterday.  Definitely dropping fast here.  
    • My nephews 7.3 got noisy right around 100K miles. While replacing the engine he drove his old 6.0 Chevy that had over 200K miles on it. It an old reliable backup. I haven’t been around the old shop lately. I’m curious to find out if there using the new GM heavy duty gas.
    • I don't know if you or anyone enjoys it or not but, why not share it. It's GM "truck" related and we're in the right place to discuss that 😉 I'm also working on some creative writing skills, I'm not quitting my day job to pursue that, either!   As I said, I've hit a wall because I'm not making any progress, and the progress is the fun part for me.   The idler pulley and EGR valve came in. Against better judgement, I went out there last night and put both of them in. I was able to get a nut on the back of the bolt on the side with the broken flange. There's enough flange still there that I can get that side of the EGR to snug down. It's not perfect, it's not "right", but this is the fix I have for now. If I decide to keep the rig, I talked to a guy locally who will sell me a complete intake for $100. If it's my truck, a broken flange like that would bug me too much. Yes, I'm crazy. But I embrace it.   Pulley on, EGR installed, started the truck. Great...still have a pulley squeaking like mad. That was the first disappointment. I thought I had pinpointed the problem. Before I replaced it, I sprayed the back of that pulley with PTFE and it would shut up for about 30 seconds. Is the squeak actually the belt? I'm frustrated.   SO then I decided why not disappoint myself twice, so I took it for a spin and sure enough, the CEL set for P0401 insufficient EGR flow again.   I had some extra time, so when I arrived home, I decided to ask AI about my EGR code. We had an interesting conversation.   I asked how to tell if my MAP sensor is bad and if that could be setting an EGR code since a bad MAP may not be sensing the requisite drop in manifold pressure when the EGR activates. I gave it the MAP value at idle and it told me to blip the throttle hard and watch the MAP reading. It said no, the values appear normal and it's reactive to pressure changes, and then instructed me to test voltage at the harness. I don't think it's the MAP sensor. Interesting, though, I gave it MAP reading values in inHg, and it thought I was using PSI, so I had to correct it. AI is a very dangerous tool if you aren't treating it like the machine that it is.   Then it walked me through testing the EGR and harness. It took me down an interesting path. It was referencing a gray wire and a white wire so I told it I can't tell the difference on my harness because it's dirty and old and both could be white or gray, I'm not sure. So it gave me a more accurate description of the ABCDE pins on the connector and started referencing pins instead of colors. Helpful.   The EGR harness has 12v power, and it also has 5v reference power from the PCM. What I'm unclear on is there's a ground wire and I thought AI had said that one of my tests revealed the ground in the harness was likely bad and it instructed me to wire a test ground. I got distracted and navigated away from the AI conversation, and when I went back and asked for clarification it said I must have misunderstood. (how rude- next time I'm saving the conversation!)   But I think it was onto something. I recall NOT getting 12v when I tested the power wire to the ground wire, but I did when I tested the power wire, grounding the voltmeter to the engine block. AI said no, the ground wire is actually for the PCM, that's how it commands the EGR on by grounding it and so the circuit should be open with the key on (i.e. EGR off). But I think there's also a static/overall ground that should always be grounded, and if that's bad, then the EGR isn't activating when the PCM commands it on, and thus setting the code.   There's a bunch of other tests it suggested, back-probing with the EGR plugged in and engine running. I need to get some time to focus, and not just tinkering after a long day.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...