Jump to content

2.5 HMI Custom Boot Logo and Animations


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey crew!

 

As many of you know, I've been hard at work on these HMI's for about 9 months now ever since I purchased my GMC Sierra last summer. I have since started programming modules for many of you right here on these forums and I could not be more grateful for all of your support and kind words.

 

A feature that has been requested from me many times over has been custom boot animations/logos/sounds and I am very happy to announce that after a lot of research and many nights of testing and programming I have finally achieved this task!

 

Please see the video below for a small demonstration. If any of you are interested in getting this done to your vehicle equipped with a 2.5 HMI please send me a PM and we can discuss this upgrade! Also, Please post ANY programming requests you'd like done on your truck and I'll do my best to make it a reality.

 

P.S. - This is just the beginning, there's lots more to come. Stay tuned...

 

-Mag

 

 

Posted

Does anyone know if CarPlay maps will display on the Denali cluster? I would be willing to put the Denali in my truck if I knew I could see the maps behind my steering wheel. 

Posted
5 hours ago, Trippster said:

Does anyone know if CarPlay maps will display on the Denali cluster? I would be willing to put the Denali in my truck if I knew I could see the maps behind my steering wheel. 

On the Denali cluster in stock form, the only nav directions that show up in the cluster are from the built in truck Nav system.  Carplay navigational directions only appear on the radio display, not the cluster behind the wheel.

 

I'm not aware of a tuner who is offering to make any of the Carplay features display on the cluster behind the wheel for any of the trim packages on K2 vehicles.

Posted
1 minute ago, Grinnen said:

Do you also unlock the nav and other features ?

I also do 2.5 HMI retrofits to add carplay and Android Auto to older trucks. 

Posted

I have a 2018 but hate the fact that one a expensive truck GM locks the nav out. Dodge pretty well tosses theirs into every vehicle.

I also hate the crap stock colors, not sure what blind lemming they have making the decisions but sweet jesus...

Posted
4 minutes ago, Grinnen said:

I have a 2018 but hate the fact that one a expensive truck GM locks the nav out. Dodge pretty well tosses theirs into every vehicle.

I also hate the crap stock colors, not sure what blind lemming they have making the decisions but sweet jesus...

Currently working on VIM as well as NAV in motion. Hoping to allow for full carplay functionality as well. (Right now you'll notice you cant scroll through all of your songs/episodes while the vehicle is in drive).

 

Keep your eyes peeled. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...