Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

First time posting on here, I’ve tried Facebook for answer and have gotten nowhere. 
 

I have seen all of the cargo/reverse light mods and can’t seem to find what I’m looking for. 
 

I am wanting to add a set of reverse bumper lights to my truck, my problem that I’m trying to figure out is I want to either add a switch on my dash or use the existing cargo lamp switch to power them. I am only wanting my reverse lights to come on when I put my truck in reverse or turn the cargo light switch on but when I put my truck in reverse I do NOT want my cargo lights to come on. I want to be able to use my bumper lights anytime I please no matter if I’m parked or driving down the road but I also don’t want my tail light reverse lights to be on when I turn the switch on. Only when I put my truck in reverse do I want the factory reverse lights on, I don’t want them to be on if I’m driving down the road. I also don’t want my truck to display the R on the dash if I’m driving down the road and I turn them on. 
 

I figure I’m gonna need a couple of relays and diode or two but I not exactly sure what I will need or how to add them all to the truck and it function how I want it. 
 

I want to be able to add a switch into the bed for the bed lights as well so I need the cargo/bed light switch that I add to work with this setup I’m wanting to add. 
 

 

Posted (edited)

Relays wouldn't be needed. 2 diodes would though.

Run a line with diode face correct position from cargo switch wire to "reverse bumber lights" and do the exact same thing to the reverse signal from the taillights. That's how to make them work automatically without manually turning on and off. 

 

Now to achieve the manual option, you'll need to do the same as I described earlier but also hook the switch up to a 12v input and run that to your "reverse bumber lights" as well. 

Then you should have what you were wanting. 

Edited by stljim2005
Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, stljim2005 said:

Relays wouldn't be needed. 2 diodes would though.

Run a line with diode face correct position from cargo switch wire to "reverse bumber lights" and do the exact same thing to the reverse signal from the taillights. That's how to make them work automatically without manually turning on and off. 

 

Now to achieve the manual option, you'll need to do the same as I described earlier but also hook the switch up to a 12v input and run that to your "reverse bumber lights" as well. 

Then you should have what you were wanting. 

I will try this and see how it works. Just want to be sure that my cargo lights don’t come on when I put my truck in reverse. With just the diodes in, if I add a switch in the bed for my bed lights, will that power the cargo lights and reverse bumper lights as well? 
 

also, do you know the diode number I need?

Edited by Nathan Gwin
Posted

You WILL need a relay. Adding any additional load on the factory lighting causes it to overload the circuit and the lights blink 3 times and go off. I'm using 10amp 1000 volt diodes. I have lights I mounted to my hitch and have them wired to a relay with the trigger coming from the reverse lights and also the cargo lights. You can't turn on your cargo lights while driving. I think Boost or someone sells a kit to over ride this function.

Posted (edited)

Throwing my write-up from another thread here to help others:

 

I added the GM light kit for my multi-flex tailgate as well as swapped the lights to brighter aftermarket LED units. I added some 2"x2" LED cubes I had purchased for my Avalanche but never used. The current draw tripped the BCM and they would blink 3 times then go off. I also hooked the cube lights up to the reverse signal so they come on in reverse and at night when the approach lights turn on when you unlock the truck or lock it and leave. I had added a Curt 5th wheel wiring harness expecting I could get my signals from there for what I was originally wanting to do. I found on here that only the 12V+ wire has signal at all times. I pulled the tail light and looked at the wiring. I have LED bed lights in the corners from factory. I tapped that wire on the passenger side(or could use drivers side) and ran that to the 86 wire on a waterproof relay. I added a 10 amp 1000 volt diode to it so current can't back feed to the bed light circuit. I also tapped the reverse light on the same side, added another 10 amp 1000 volt diode here so current can't back feed the circuit and added it to the 86 wire. There is a harness that plugs in under the bed and connects to the tail lights. I purchased a new harness to keep as a spare in case I ever had electrical issues that required me to take it to the dealer. I can unplug everything I added and return it to stock. 30 wire I connected to the 12V of the Curt 5th wheel harness I added. This plugs in via T to the factory trailer plug. I have the actual 7 wire plug running into the blank in the passenger bed side where the 120V outlet would be if I had that option. 85 wire can be tapped into the trailer harness ground wire or find a suitable ground wire elsewhere on the chassis or trail light harness. 87 connects to your additional lights. I didn't add a fuse to mine since I'm using the 12V+ from the trailer harness and it is already fused. 87a is NOT used and can be removed or taped off. I heat shrunk/electrical taped up connections and then zip tied the relay to the Curt 5th wheel harness along the tail panel of the bed.

 

For those not wanting to read it all:

Waterproof relay

30 wire - 12V+ from trailer wire circuit

85 wire - 12V- ground to trailer wire ground, taillight ground, or other suitable chassis ground

86 wire - 12V+ input from LED bed lights and/or reverse lights, using a 10 amp 1000 volt diode on each input wire to prevent back feeding trigger circuit

87 wire - 12V+ to your additional lights

87a wire - NOT used and can be removed from relay harness or taped off. Not all relays have this pin/wire

Edited by GETGONE
Added diode details
  • Like 1
Posted
20 hours ago, GETGONE said:

Throwing my write-up from another thread here to help others:

 

I added the GM light kit for my multi-flex tailgate as well as swapped the lights to brighter aftermarket LED units. I added some 2"x2" LED cubes I had purchased for my Avalanche but never used. The current draw tripped the BCM and they would blink 3 times then go off. I also hooked the cube lights up to the reverse signal so they come on in reverse and at night when the approach lights turn on when you unlock the truck or lock it and leave. I had added a Curt 5th wheel wiring harness expecting I could get my signals from there for what I was originally wanting to do. I found on here that only the 12V+ wire has signal at all times. I pulled the tail light and looked at the wiring. I have LED bed lights in the corners from factory. I tapped that wire on the passenger side(or could use drivers side) and ran that to the 86 wire on a waterproof relay. I added a diode to it so current can't back feed to the bed light circuit. I also tapped the reverse light on the same side, added another diode here so current can't back feed the circuit and added it to the 86 wire. There is a harness that plugs in under the bed and connects to the tail lights. I purchased a new harness to keep as a spare in case I ever had electrical issues that required me to take it to the dealer. I can unplug everything I added and return it to stock. 30 wire I connected to the 12V of the Curt 5th wheel harness I added. This plugs in via T to the factory trailer plug. I have the actual 7 wire plug running into the blank in the passenger bed side where the 120V outlet would be if I had that option. 85 wire can be tapped into the trailer harness ground wire or find a suitable ground wire elsewhere on the chassis or trail light harness. 87 connects to your additional lights. I didn't add a fuse to mine since I'm using the 12V+ from the trailer harness and it is already fused. 87a is NOT used and can be removed or taped off. I heat shrunk/electrical taped up connections and then zip tied the relay to the Curt 5th wheel harness along the tail panel of the bed.

 

For those not wanting to read it all:

Waterproof relay(as shown above)

30 wire - 12V+ from trailer wire circuit

85 wire - 12V- ground to trailer wire ground, taillight ground, or other suitable chassis ground

86 wire - 12V+ input from LED bed lights and/or reverse lights, using a diode on each input wire to prevent back feeding trigger circuit

87 wire - 12V+ to your additional lights

87a wire - NOT used and can be removed from relay harness or taped off. Not all relays have this pin/wire

Which diode did you use?

Posted
On 10/22/2022 at 11:20 PM, GETGONE said:

I'm using 10amp 1000 volt diodes.

I posted it in the previous post.

Posted
11 minutes ago, LTgone said:

 

Maybe OP is too lazy. He can now just click the link 🤣.

 

Nah... Just helping out when able to that's what Forum's do 👍.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I hope to high heaven this is wrong. My Chevy farm trucks frame is lasting way longer than a newer Nissan Titan XD I got for a steal, and it only pulls trailers. A decade younger and it's frame is already way rustier than the waxed Chevy I drive across longs and ditches. Also, hasn't Ford been having tones of troubles with rusted frames? 
    • Batteries don’t always show signs of a few years ago my vehicle started fine in the morning and took me to work. After work the battery was completely dead and I needed a jump. No, I didn’t leave anything on and the battery was only a couple months old. It was replaced under warranty. 
    • AFM is confirmed in the Corvette engine, so I'm assuming the higher volume trucks will get it as well
    • If his battery was that bad I would think it would have been showing signs before this that were ignored. Stinks that it happened the way it did in rush hour traffic, but this seems like a pretty fringe scenario. I don't mind it that bad and never turn it off. The only slight annoyance for me is the slight delay between brake to gas, but I have gotten used to it and figure if it can save a little gas why not.
    • That is a good correction. I think “severity” was probably the wrong word for what I meant. What I really mean is closer to event priority, relevance, and actionability — not “this code is severe” or “replace this part.” I agree that a truck can have a lot of trivial or historical communication codes, and if the product starts pushing alerts for every stored or low-value event, people will ignore it very quickly. So the alert logic would need to be filtered. For example, I would not want a random old communication code to generate a push notification by itself. A useful alert would probably need to be based on things like: - new vs historical - active vs stored - repeated vs one-time - duration of the event - whether it happened near the driver-marked symptom - whether it happened together with voltage drop, reset, bus-off, misfire, oil-pressure change, etc. - whether the same pattern repeats under similar conditions So instead of saying “severity,” maybe the product should organize events by affected system and priority. For example: Misfire event: Show misfire counts / roughness first, then fuel trims, RPM/load, DFM/AFM state if available, coolant/oil temp, voltage, and related DTCs. Oil-pressure event: Show oil pressure first, but only in context — RPM, load, oil temperature, coolant temperature, DFM/AFM state if available, voltage, and baseline comparison. Communication event: Show which module/network/message dropped, whether voltage dropped, whether the recorder reset, whether it was active or historical, and whether it repeated. Voltage/reset event: Show battery voltage, crank/wake/sleep state, module reset, communication dropouts, and what came back online first. That also solves the display-order problem you mentioned. The main report should not always show the same fixed list first. It should show the system that appears abnormal first, and then the supporting values for that system. I also agree that the truck already has an oil pressure gauge and MIL. The point would not be to duplicate those. The value would be in showing what else was happening before and after the warning or symptom. For example, if the MIL comes on for a misfire, the truck already told the driver there is a problem. The useful part would be: - which cylinder or bank looked abnormal first - whether it happened after an AFM/DFM transition - whether fuel trims were already moving - whether oil pressure or voltage changed at the same time - whether the same pattern happened previously without a MIL On the OBD port point, I think you may be right for a consumer-facing version. OBD is much easier for the average owner: - easier install - easier removal - inside the cabin - easier phone connection - easier data download - easier to include a pass-through port for another scanner OBD is also the right place for DTCs, freeze frame, VIN, calibration information, Mode 6, and normal scan-tool parameters. The reason I was looking at ECM-side recording is that some events may be gone by the time someone plugs in a scanner, and some powertrain-side network evidence may not be available the same way through the DLC. But I agree that if an OBD-based version can capture enough useful evidence for most owners, that is probably the cleaner consumer product. Maybe the split is: - OBD/DLC version for most consumers - ECM-side version only if it proves it adds evidence that the OBD version cannot get - shop/pro version if deeper powertrain-side event evidence is actually useful So I would not want to force the inline approach if the OBD workflow solves most of the real-world problem. Your last point is probably the key product requirement: the report should be specific to the system showing the abnormality. Not “here are 50 parameters.” More like: “Misfire-related event detected. Here are the misfire/fuel/DFM/context values.” or “Oil-pressure-related event detected. Here is oil pressure compared with RPM/load/temp/baseline.” or “Communication event detected. Here is what dropped, when, and whether voltage/reset happened first.” That is a much better way to think about the report.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...