Adding Bumper Reverse Lights

[Nathan Gwin]

First time posting on here, I’ve tried Facebook for answer and have gotten nowhere. 
 

I have seen all of the cargo/reverse light mods and can’t seem to find what I’m looking for. 
 

I am wanting to add a set of reverse bumper lights to my truck, my problem that I’m trying to figure out is I want to either add a switch on my dash or use the existing cargo lamp switch to power them. I am only wanting my reverse lights to come on when I put my truck in reverse or turn the cargo light switch on but when I put my truck in reverse I do NOT want my cargo lights to come on. I want to be able to use my bumper lights anytime I please no matter if I’m parked or driving down the road but I also don’t want my tail light reverse lights to be on when I turn the switch on. Only when I put my truck in reverse do I want the factory reverse lights on, I don’t want them to be on if I’m driving down the road. I also don’t want my truck to display the R on the dash if I’m driving down the road and I turn them on. 
 

I figure I’m gonna need a couple of relays and diode or two but I not exactly sure what I will need or how to add them all to the truck and it function how I want it. 
 

I want to be able to add a switch into the bed for the bed lights as well so I need the cargo/bed light switch that I add to work with this setup I’m wanting to add. 
 

 

[stljim2005]

Relays wouldn't be needed. 2 diodes would though.

Run a line with diode face correct position from cargo switch wire to "reverse bumber lights" and do the exact same thing to the reverse signal from the taillights. That's how to make them work automatically without manually turning on and off. 

 

Now to achieve the manual option, you'll need to do the same as I described earlier but also hook the switch up to a 12v input and run that to your "reverse bumber lights" as well. 

Then you should have what you were wanting. 

Edited October 22, 2022 by stljim2005

[Nathan Gwin]

14 hours ago, stljim2005 said:

Relays wouldn't be needed. 2 diodes would though.

Run a line with diode face correct position from cargo switch wire to "reverse bumber lights" and do the exact same thing to the reverse signal from the taillights. That's how to make them work automatically without manually turning on and off. 

 

Now to achieve the manual option, you'll need to do the same as I described earlier but also hook the switch up to a 12v input and run that to your "reverse bumber lights" as well. 

Then you should have what you were wanting. 

I will try this and see how it works. Just want to be sure that my cargo lights don’t come on when I put my truck in reverse. With just the diodes in, if I add a switch in the bed for my bed lights, will that power the cargo lights and reverse bumper lights as well? 
 

also, do you know the diode number I need?

Edited October 22, 2022 by Nathan Gwin

[GETGONE]

You WILL need a relay. Adding any additional load on the factory lighting causes it to overload the circuit and the lights blink 3 times and go off. I'm using 10amp 1000 volt diodes. I have lights I mounted to my hitch and have them wired to a relay with the trigger coming from the reverse lights and also the cargo lights. You can't turn on your cargo lights while driving. I think Boost or someone sells a kit to over ride this function.

[GETGONE]

Throwing my write-up from another thread here to help others:

 

I added the GM light kit for my multi-flex tailgate as well as swapped the lights to brighter aftermarket LED units. I added some 2"x2" LED cubes I had purchased for my Avalanche but never used. The current draw tripped the BCM and they would blink 3 times then go off. I also hooked the cube lights up to the reverse signal so they come on in reverse and at night when the approach lights turn on when you unlock the truck or lock it and leave. I had added a Curt 5th wheel wiring harness expecting I could get my signals from there for what I was originally wanting to do. I found on here that only the 12V+ wire has signal at all times. I pulled the tail light and looked at the wiring. I have LED bed lights in the corners from factory. I tapped that wire on the passenger side(or could use drivers side) and ran that to the 86 wire on a waterproof relay. I added a 10 amp 1000 volt diode to it so current can't back feed to the bed light circuit. I also tapped the reverse light on the same side, added another 10 amp 1000 volt diode here so current can't back feed the circuit and added it to the 86 wire. There is a harness that plugs in under the bed and connects to the tail lights. I purchased a new harness to keep as a spare in case I ever had electrical issues that required me to take it to the dealer. I can unplug everything I added and return it to stock. 30 wire I connected to the 12V of the Curt 5th wheel harness I added. This plugs in via T to the factory trailer plug. I have the actual 7 wire plug running into the blank in the passenger bed side where the 120V outlet would be if I had that option. 85 wire can be tapped into the trailer harness ground wire or find a suitable ground wire elsewhere on the chassis or trail light harness. 87 connects to your additional lights. I didn't add a fuse to mine since I'm using the 12V+ from the trailer harness and it is already fused. 87a is NOT used and can be removed or taped off. I heat shrunk/electrical taped up connections and then zip tied the relay to the Curt 5th wheel harness along the tail panel of the bed.

 

For those not wanting to read it all:

Waterproof relay

30 wire - 12V+ from trailer wire circuit

85 wire - 12V- ground to trailer wire ground, taillight ground, or other suitable chassis ground

86 wire - 12V+ input from LED bed lights and/or reverse lights, using a 10 amp 1000 volt diode on each input wire to prevent back feeding trigger circuit

87 wire - 12V+ to your additional lights

87a wire - NOT used and can be removed from relay harness or taped off. Not all relays have this pin/wire

Edited October 24, 2022 by GETGONE
Added diode details

[Nathan Gwin]

20 hours ago, GETGONE said:

Throwing my write-up from another thread here to help others:

 

I added the GM light kit for my multi-flex tailgate as well as swapped the lights to brighter aftermarket LED units. I added some 2"x2" LED cubes I had purchased for my Avalanche but never used. The current draw tripped the BCM and they would blink 3 times then go off. I also hooked the cube lights up to the reverse signal so they come on in reverse and at night when the approach lights turn on when you unlock the truck or lock it and leave. I had added a Curt 5th wheel wiring harness expecting I could get my signals from there for what I was originally wanting to do. I found on here that only the 12V+ wire has signal at all times. I pulled the tail light and looked at the wiring. I have LED bed lights in the corners from factory. I tapped that wire on the passenger side(or could use drivers side) and ran that to the 86 wire on a waterproof relay. I added a diode to it so current can't back feed to the bed light circuit. I also tapped the reverse light on the same side, added another diode here so current can't back feed the circuit and added it to the 86 wire. There is a harness that plugs in under the bed and connects to the tail lights. I purchased a new harness to keep as a spare in case I ever had electrical issues that required me to take it to the dealer. I can unplug everything I added and return it to stock. 30 wire I connected to the 12V of the Curt 5th wheel harness I added. This plugs in via T to the factory trailer plug. I have the actual 7 wire plug running into the blank in the passenger bed side where the 120V outlet would be if I had that option. 85 wire can be tapped into the trailer harness ground wire or find a suitable ground wire elsewhere on the chassis or trail light harness. 87 connects to your additional lights. I didn't add a fuse to mine since I'm using the 12V+ from the trailer harness and it is already fused. 87a is NOT used and can be removed or taped off. I heat shrunk/electrical taped up connections and then zip tied the relay to the Curt 5th wheel harness along the tail panel of the bed.

 

For those not wanting to read it all:

Waterproof relay(as shown above)

30 wire - 12V+ from trailer wire circuit

85 wire - 12V- ground to trailer wire ground, taillight ground, or other suitable chassis ground

86 wire - 12V+ input from LED bed lights and/or reverse lights, using a diode on each input wire to prevent back feeding trigger circuit

87 wire - 12V+ to your additional lights

87a wire - NOT used and can be removed from relay harness or taped off. Not all relays have this pin/wire

Which diode did you use?

[GETGONE]

On 10/22/2022 at 11:20 PM, GETGONE said:

I'm using 10amp 1000 volt diodes.

I posted it in the previous post.

[RedLT]

10 hours ago, GETGONE said:

I posted it in the previous post.

 

OP probably wanted a link.

Just search on Amazon in terms of "Diode 10 amp 1000 volt".  It will result with something like so.  https://www.amazon.com/s?k=diode+10+amp+1000+volt&crid=3HN7RE827OTGG&sprefix=diode+10+amp+1000+volt%2Caps%2C125&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

 

[LTgone]

16 minutes ago, RedLT said:

 

OP probably wanted a link.

Just search on Amazon in terms of "Diode 10 amp 1000 volt".  It will result with something like so.  https://www.amazon.com/s?k=diode+10+amp+1000+volt&crid=3HN7RE827OTGG&sprefix=diode+10+amp+1000+volt%2Caps%2C125&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

 

 

Maybe OP is too lazy. He can now just click the link .

[RedLT]

11 minutes ago, LTgone said:

 

Maybe OP is too lazy. He can now just click the link .

 

Nah... Just helping out when able to that's what Forum's do .

[RedLT]

Ran across this thread, might help with your application.
Link Here