Jump to content

2005 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 5.3 Oil Pickup Tube O-ring Replacement

jmpidgeo

By jmpidgeo
in Ask A GM Technician

 Share

Recommended Posts

jmpidgeo Enthusiast

jmpidgeo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Waiting to get the call back from the dealer, patiently. :crackup:

Supposed to be buttoning the truck up and test driving it this morning.

jmpidgeo Enthusiast

jmpidgeo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

LOL. Just got the call. As luck would have it, he got it put back together with new pump, seals, gaskets, coolant, and oil, started it up, and it had 0 oil pressure at all. Guess they think that the brand new pump is faulty, so they're doing it all over again with a new pump arriving in the morning. I don't mind driving this new truck more, so at least I have that going for me. It just seems odd to me that the brand new pump is faulty, but I'm also not sure what else could cause 0 oil pressure when the pump and seals are all that has been changed from the 208k mile stuff.

jmpidgeo Enthusiast

jmpidgeo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Aaand I have my truck back. Just as I thought in the back of my mind, the tech messed up installing the pump so the pickup tube wasn't properly sealed to it. All good now, $700 in labor later plus parts. 40 psi at idle sure makes me feel better than the previous 3-15 psi

jmpidgeo Enthusiast

jmpidgeo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Wait, THEY messed up and YOU had to pay?

No, I only paid for one round of the oil pump R&R.

 

$700,?? what is their door rate ? $200/hr ?

 

get out your receipt ,,,how many hrs labour?

The oil pump was quoted as a 7.5 hour job by the service advisor when I called them up to discuss how much it might cost. Overall he quoted me $950 for the oil pump R&R and around $350 for the pickup tube seal(s) job separately (parts + labor). They charged me a flat $700 for labor.

Edited by jmpidgeo
jmpidgeo Enthusiast

jmpidgeo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Not too far off then, probably rounded it off to 7 hrs @ $100/hr. $100/hr seems like the going rate for a dealership, if not more expensive in some cases.

 

I especially don't feel bad since they had all day yesterday and half the day today working on it, so I bet they put a solid 12 hours of labor into it between diagnosis, oil pump and seals round 1, and the oil pump seals round 2

Edited by jmpidgeo
jmpidgeo Enthusiast

jmpidgeo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not to mention that they went through 2 oil changes worth of Mobil 1 since they dropped the pan twice, LOL. Obviously only charged me for 1 oil change worth.

  • 4 years later...
edjenc1 New Member

edjenc1

Posted
Posted

I had similar issue with my 2005 Suburban 1500 270k miles. On cold starts, the oil pressure was very slow to rise and would cause the oil light to come on. Once at operating temperature, the pressure would stabilize slightly below normal at cruise RPM. When the engine was still below normal operating temperature, the pressure would drop off very low at idle RPM to the point that the engine would begin to knock,

 

Based on everything that I have read, I have a worn O-ring on the oil pickup tube.

 

Here is what I did and the problem has completely gone away.

 

The o-ring is above the oil level. When the oil is cold and thick, the oil pump would suck in air around the o-ring rather than suck oil up the pickup tube, causing the very low oil pressure on cold starts.

 

I simply changed my oil from 5w30 to Mobile 1 0w30. The 0w allows the oil to flow much easier when cold, allowing it to be sucked up the pickup tube rather than the pump sucking in air around the worn o-ring.

 

Go figure. It worked! The oil pressure is perfect now, even on cold starts.

  • 5 years later...
Jworks Enthusiast

Jworks

Posted
Posted
On 4/12/2017 at 10:03 AM, edjenc1 said:

I had similar issue with my 2005 Suburban 1500 270k miles. On cold starts, the oil pressure was very slow to rise and would cause the oil light to come on. Once at operating temperature, the pressure would stabilize slightly below normal at cruise RPM. When the engine was still below normal operating temperature, the pressure would drop off very low at idle RPM to the point that the engine would begin to knock,

 

Based on everything that I have read, I have a worn O-ring on the oil pickup tube.

 

Here is what I did and the problem has completely gone away.

 

The o-ring is above the oil level. When the oil is cold and thick, the oil pump would suck in air around the o-ring rather than suck oil up the pickup tube, causing the very low oil pressure on cold starts.

 

I simply changed my oil from 5w30 to Mobile 1 0w30. The 0w allows the oil to flow much easier when cold, allowing it to be sucked up the pickup tube rather than the pump sucking in air around the worn o-ring.

 

Go figure. It worked! The oil pressure is perfect now, even on cold starts.

Man, thats weird changing to 0-30 oil to solve the problem.  No arguing though that it worked for you.  I had a similar issue.  Long story short:  Oil pressure dropped to 21 at hwy speed.  An online friend in this forum advised changing oil & filter.  I did.  Pressure went back to 40 hwy speed.  But still idles lower...like 20-30 at idle.  Mechanic told me it was still within GM specs and not to worry.  He said it'd be costly to replace the O ring (which would be my next step).  And he said if it dropped below 20 to let him know.  I'm thinking that would be a $700 job min.  For now I'm at 40 hwy speed and 22-30 at idle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • KARNUT
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By KARNUT · Posted

      He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
    • Atlas
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Atlas · Posted

      Yes, you must have seen my thread on the Blazer. HOT GARBAGE, but I love them anyway. I'm convinced every car guy has a soft sport for an S/T series somewheres. Probably even a Panther too, if I'm being an honest car guy. That doesn't mean they aren't junk. And they definitely don't get better with age. I sometimes play with old cars, but that's by choice. I don't rely on them and they aren't my everyday fleet.   Derek plays the common man on Youtube and that's no doubt where he started. Now he has Youtube money (and Motortrend, etc). You think his crews and his wife ride around in old beaters when they're chasing him and his wrecks across the country? No he's got newer and nicer stuff for that, you'll see glimpses of it in the footage.
    • Atlas
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Atlas · Posted

      You refuse to own anything made in this century yet you reportedly own... a 2007 Silverado, which is now almost 20 years old. The dissonance.... turn up your hearing aid?   You clearly don't understand the government contracting process, brother. We send people to die on front lines, keep the public safe, and make people's husbands, wives, children enter burning buildings with equipment from .....wait for it.....   ...the lowest bidder....   Just because something is used for a long time doesn't mean it's good. But it might be cheap and plentiful.   Please, continue to whine about new trucks in a thread dedicated to new trucks, which you've said you'll never own. We get it. Go tell everyone how you're stuck in time on a Panther forum. I mean, Jesus, an 86 isn't even one of the good Panthers.
    • KARNUT
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By KARNUT · Posted

      It really is comical when people don’t agree or see the reason some people prefer the older vehicles. They become condescending. All the while they may be busting their knuckles on old vehicles. I have found memories of swapping out engines in my old GM cars in a weekend without much hassle. Unlike today. One wrong move a computer will shut you down. Even on something as easy as a brake job. There’s a pretty comical YouTuber called the car wizard. A garage owner who puts it all in perspective. Another Vicegrip garage that’s shows just how tough the old stuff is. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...