HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[chromanowski]

Well i went out and double checked guess it wasnt as tight as i thought it was. I got it all tightened up for sure this time and it started up and the check engine light is gone. But one odd thing i noticed was the temperature on the radio seems to be stuck at 32degrees now.

[GMC-AT]

normal... that should fix itself in about an hour of driving.

[Zasker1]

take a look at this page- get what I got for my Sierra http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/152762-hid-headlight-bulbs-hid-projector-retrofit/page-32

 

 

Thanks for the assist, UPS says it will be here today by 4pm

[citius]

Please help. I got a pair of hids from the hidguy.net and installed them. However, the driver side keeps turning off. I ordered the plug and play, plus the capacitors.

 

It's not the ballasts, I swapped them to opposite sides and it works, but the driver side still turns off.

 

I cut one of the wires on the factory fog light harness and reattached it, could that be the problem? I currently have the VLED bulbs in it and they work fine.

 

if anyone knows anything, please help.

[Spurshot]

Thi,

When a ballast starts up, the current draw is at its maximum. If the wire you cut is just twisted together, it may have more resistance. The fog light circuit may be near its limit during the start up of the ballast and the extra resistance might not allow enough current flow to sustain the ballast thru the warm up.

 

I'd recommend soldering that wire together and trying it again.

 

If that doesn't work, you should just use a relay to power the lights. First try to solder the repaired wire.

[FastWS6TA]

The led rings JaronM3 has are 80mm Led concepts colormorph halos. Just keep in mind guys that these will also run in a white color which looks real nice. Colors for fun and having something different.

The FXR upgrade is a huge improvement as well.

[Liquidfx17]

I just installed a morimoto hid set up on my 2014 silveardo. Have the hd relay and the capicator. My question is on the capicator plug in. I keep reading that it needs to be flipped (red to black, black to red) Will the HID's still turn on and properly function if its plugged in red to red, black to black?

 

Ive also noticed since the install, My radio has trouble finding the HD signal. I mounted the ballasts right by each headlight housing. Where did everyone ground their kits? I grounded the passenger side under the batter tray. Found 3 bolts underneath, took the top one out, got the paint off and wired the ballast and capicator to that one bolt. Is that maybe the issue? Where did everyone ground on the driver side?

Edited September 21, 2014 by Liquidfx17

[bdbake01]

 

 

If your relay is *NOT* buzzing then your good. I don't think I notice a difference in the HD Signal on mine. It has always aggravated me how long it takes to lock on a signal. Also kill me how when you go to change the channel on the steering wheel how you have to hit it twice sometimes.

What???

[colton_m]

Hey guys after reading through all this I ordered what I thought was best from Morimoto. I have a '14 silverado LTZ. I ordered a 5000k H11 kit with an HD relay and a standalone canbus. Install went good, but I just thought I would share that the lights function perfectly with or without the canbus so I guess it isn't necessary. Recently some people have mentioned needing the "capacitor link" I don't have that either.

 

So to summarize I ended up using:

Morimoto 5000k H11

5five DSP (50 watt ballast)

HD relay harness

 

No buzzing, flickering or bulb out errors. I'm also pleased to report that lights warm up to full power and color In about 3 seconds from stone cold.

 

Lots of pics coming soon!

 

EDIT: Turns out it was dark enough when I tested that DRL's were not running. I tried it today in full sunlight and the relays were buzzing. I put one canbus between the OEM light bulb wire and my relay and all is good again with DRL or normal headlights with a towel over the light sensor. Contrary to the diagrams at the beginning of this thread you don't seem to need a canbus between the relay and ballast. That idea never made sense to me anyways.

 

Stock signal > Canbus > HD Relays > HID Bulbs

Running good! Again lol

Edited September 21, 2014 by colton_m

[Liquidfx17]

No buzzing. Still having HD Radio issues. Where did everyone end up grounding? This kit has 3 grounds. 2 passenger side. One driver side

[arkenzo]

why does that kit have so many ground points ?????? pretty ridiculous , i guess that gives off the impression that its a higher quality unit? dunno..

[Spurshot]

Hey guys after reading through all this I ordered what I thought was best from Morimoto. I have a '14 silverado LTZ. I ordered a 5000k H11 kit with an HD relay and a standalone canbus. Install went good, but I just thought I would share that the lights function perfectly with or without the canbus so I guess it isn't necessary. Recently some people have mentioned needing the "capacitor link" I don't have that either.

 

So to summarize I ended up using:

Morimoto 5000k H11

5five DSP (50 watt ballast)

HD relay harness

 

No buzzing, flickering or bulb out errors. I'm also pleased to report that lights warm up to full power and color In about 3 seconds from stone cold.

 

Lots of pics coming soon!

 

The fast warm up must be due to the 50 watt ballasts. The Morimoto 35 watt ballasts take about a minute or more to get my bulbs to full color.

[Mike1220]

Hey guys after reading through all this I ordered what I thought was best from Morimoto. I have a '14 silverado LTZ. I ordered a 5000k H11 kit with an HD relay and a standalone canbus. Install went good, but I just thought I would share that the lights function perfectly with or without the canbus so I guess it isn't necessary. Recently some people have mentioned needing the "capacitor link" I don't have that either.

 

So to summarize I ended up using:

Morimoto 5000k H11

5five DSP (50 watt ballast)

HD relay harness

 

No buzzing, flickering or bulb out errors. I'm also pleased to report that lights warm up to full power and color In about 3 seconds from stone cold.

 

Lots of pics coming soon!

I think that you only need the canbus r error decoder when you have the smaller 35W kits. Once you go up to 50 or 55W, the ballast must be strong enough for the computer to recognize that all is working as it should. Just somethig I have noticed across the board with people who have 50W or 55W kits.

[Liquidfx17]

No help on the HD Radio issue? If the hids are off HD comes in fine. 10 secs after I turn on the lights. HD goes out

[nevadaguy]

No help on the HD Radio issue? If the hids are off HD comes in fine. 10 secs after I turn on the lights. HD goes out

try moving your grounds. see page 24, post 357.