Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

jcr3 Enthusiast

jcr3

Posted
Posted

I really don't have a clue on what it could be all I know is that this Thursday my truck is going to get out of the dealer and I will find out if a new drive shaft did the job, Have to wait and see I'll let you know if that fixes it.

thehad Enthusiast

thehad

Posted
Posted

I have the 20" Texas Edition wheels as well. I don't think mine has anything to do with the wheels since I just had them rotated and the vibration is still exactly the same. I will hopefully know more on Wednesday when I take my truck in to have them look at it and see if they can pinpoint where the source is coming from.

GMCustomerService Senior Enthusiast

GMCustomerService

Posted
Posted

And now it's on the back of a wrecker headed back to the dealer. Surging won't get over 30 mph. This has been one hell of a new vehicle experience.

Oh no! I am truly sorry to learn that your vehicle is headed back into the dealership. I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me including a brief overview of your concern, contact information, VIN, exact mileage, and preferred dealership?

 

Sincerely,

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care

Jwilk New Member

Jwilk

Posted
Posted

Silver Spaceship - does the vibration feel like rumble strips for about a second? Thats what mine was/is doing. Symptoms sound very much the same. I also experienced a slip between 2nd & 3rd gears as the truck was accelerating. My truck spent 2 weeks with the dealer as they couldn't figure out the issue. They experienced the same vibration & slip, so there was no denying it existed. No error codes were present. They eventually called in a field engineer who determined the torque converter was out of balance. Their solution was to replace the torque converter. Had it back for 5 days, and it is starting the vibration & slip issue all over again.

Szyikowski Enthusiast

Szyikowski

Posted
Posted

I really think it is the prop shaft for a couple of reasons:

1 Rotating tires does nothing

2 Vibration is inconsistent

3 Weight is a factor

4 Speed is a factor

5 Changing the drive shaft apparently does nothing

6 Changing the torque converter apparently does nothing.

 

 

There are a couple of things that can change the angle at the rear end. The amount of torque being applied, weight in the truck (gas, passengers, payload), terrain, and trailering. Until the angle at both ends of the drive shaft are always identical there will be a vibration. Mine was so bad I changed my trailer tires in a parking lot because I thought they were flat spotted.

GMCustomerService Senior Enthusiast

GMCustomerService

Posted
Posted

Silver Spaceship - does the vibration feel like rumble strips for about a second? Thats what mine was/is doing. Symptoms sound very much the same. I also experienced a slip between 2nd & 3rd gears as the truck was accelerating. My truck spent 2 weeks with the dealer as they couldn't figure out the issue. They experienced the same vibration & slip, so there was no denying it existed. No error codes were present. They eventually called in a field engineer who determined the torque converter was out of balance. Their solution was to replace the torque converter. Had it back for 5 days, and it is starting the vibration & slip issue all over again.

Hey there,

 

I am truly sorry to hear that you are continuing to experience a vehicle issue after a visit at the dealership. I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me including a brief overview of your concern, contact information, VIN, exact mileage, and preferred dealership?

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care

joeocean New Member

joeocean

Posted
Posted

I have 20's goodyear on my 2014 LTZ 4wd. Vibration is terrible. Cant stand it. 1st time dealer said the tires were not perfectly round and replaced 3 of them. This didnt fix the problem. 2nd time at dealer and replacing the 4th tire. Not fixed! I spent alot of money for a truck that shakes between 50 and 80 mph. Very upset with the quality.

  • Like 1
thehad Enthusiast

thehad

Posted
Posted

Got a call from the dealer today and they said that their technicians also confirmed the vibration as I described it. They had to call their regional tech and he suggested three possible things that it could be. The easiest of them was to re-time the drive shaft. I forgot the third thing that they mentioned but the other was to have the drive shaft balance checked. So, they took it off, checked for any manufacturing defects and/or damage (found none), turned it 180o and put it back on. They said that they took the truck out and test drove it and that they did not feel any vibration after. So maybe it is just an alignment issue causing all the vibrations. I won't know until tomorrow since they still have the truck. I will let y'all know when I get it back if this fixed the issue or not. I will be making a trip this weekend, so I will be able to fully test it out. I'll keep y'all updated.

  • Like 1
Stex Senior Enthusiast

Stex

Posted
Posted (edited)

Still could be the tires. I had vibration problems and it has always been the tires or drive shaft. If dealer cannot get it done, I would find a good drive shaft shop in your area. Have them check the shaft. If not a fix then I would go to the tires next. Even a road force balance is not always reliable. If at all possible, find a shop that knows how to true tires AND high speed balance on the truck using a strobe.

 

The truing and on truck high speed balance has corrected vibration problems for me. And this is even with Michelins. It is the only way I will balance a tire. We have had the road force from Discount when putting on new tires. Not good on large truck tires. True and balance on the truck and all is like glass at all speeds.

 

If in the San Antonio area, PM me and I will give you the only know shop here. Oh, heck it is Southwest brake and alignment.

Edited by STex
  • Like 1
GMCustomerService Senior Enthusiast

GMCustomerService

Posted
Posted (edited)

I

have 20's goodyear on my 2014 LTZ 4wd. Vibration is terrible. Cant

stand it. 1st time dealer said the tires were not perfectly round and

replaced 3 of them. This didnt fix the problem. 2nd time at dealer and

replacing the 4th tire. Not fixed! I spent alot of money for a truck

that shakes between 50 and 80 mph. Very upset with the quality.

 

Hello joeocean,

 

I am sorry to hear that you are

experiencing this vibration on your vehicle as well. I also apologize that

replacing the tired like the dealership has tried has not addressed the issue.

Could you private message us your name, contact info, VIN, mileage, and dealership

you are working with so we can look further into this situation for you? Thank

you very much for your time.

 

Gregory W. (Assisting Jennifer)

GM Customer Care

 

 

 

Edited by GM Customer Service
  • Like 1
thehad Enthusiast

thehad

Posted
Posted

The drive shaft re-time did not fix the problem. It still vibrates exactly the same as before.

 

I talked with the service tech and he seems to think that it is road vibrations that I am feeling. I will have to talk with them next week and see what else they can do.

 

I still think that it has something to do with the rear axle. The amplitude of the vibration changes only when I turn and remains constant at whatever level it reached in the turn while driving straight. So sometimes it is really bad and sometimes it is barely there at all but it never totally goes away.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...