Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The two times we've noticed it being worse after getting it back from the dealership were AFTER rotating the tires. It's going in for its final repair attempt with an engineer on the 16th, if we get it back and it's "fixed", my husband is taking it to get the tires rotated to make sure it really is fixed! Haha!

 

 

 

 

 

I finally got a chance to test it out after the re-balance and rotation and I am Happy to report that it is much, much better... It was so bad that it may still have some vibe but it feels like nothing to me now... I am headed on a couple hundred mile trip in a week and should get a better idea of where I am at... I will keep an eye on it and keep you all posted...

 

Keep the Faith

Posted

Keep your service records and get rid of it if you can. Why should we even have to have almost 400 pages of dialogue to convince gm there's a problem. Eventually they'll be sued for this...everyone here has had the same recourse and no resolution. I will get my money back one way or another for having to get rid of my truck. I'm enjoying my toyota but I bought Silverado because that's what I wanted. Good luck.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

We're going in for our final repair attempt (after 8 total visits for 4 different issues) with a GM engineer on the 16th. After that we'll let the FL lemon law take over.

Posted

Well, could be. If the whole issue is vibration causing a resonant response of the entire frame/body/interior system, then changing the stiffness of something in that system will affect the natural frequency and/or damping. In the case of rubber suspension and cab mounts, both stiffness and damping would be reduced when the rubber gets hot. This would have a big effect on the total system response. Same for tires - hot rubber is softer!

 

You know, I pointed out on the SUV forum that GM has advertised that they have gone to new style "shear type" body mounts. The rubber is secured laterally to reduce horizontal body movement, in an attempt to give these full size trucks a more firm, "sports car" -like ride. I still wonder how much of and effect it is having on all the vibration (and noise for the SUV's) issues we are seeing.

 

Anyone else seeing different characteristics in the hot weather?

We're in FL and it's getting to be in the 90s and the vibration is horrible, although it has been since the beginning!

Posted

Are you guys who have gone to the Michelin's for a smoother ride running the Tweel? Seems like the only tire that might actually help ?

 

Posted (edited)

Today I was told by a GM District Manager of aftersales that he has "fixed them all" and the vibrations are "within spec" and at least i dont have to use my 2 feet to get around.

 

But yet his only solution is more tires, we are up to 13 tires on this truck so far, I dont think that is the issue, and its obvious hes done trying.

Edited by medicconnor
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

We're going in for our final repair attempt (after 8 total visits for 4 different issues) with a GM engineer on the 16th. After that we'll let the FL lemon law take over.

 

I am talking with a lemon law layer tomorrow how is your case going? I'm in north fl.

Edited by medicconnor
Posted

It's really sad the way Chevrolet has handled this issue. One thing I have always praised Chevy on is their quality control; but lately I'd say they are worse than just about any other mfg when it comes to problems and resolutions.

 

How many future Chevrolet customers are they costing themselves with this debacle. After leaving the Ram family to try out a Chevy again, I can say I will never go back. Not only are they well behind the curve when it comes to hp, transmissions, and interior features; they are just pushing crap out of the factory with no regards to the consumer.

 

Mine will be going back in again. I've balanced the tires twice, swapped wheels off another Chevy in my inventory, and balanced the drive shaft. All to no avail. Mine is so bad it actually starts vibrating at around 30 which rules out tires. The other odd thing is it shakes during low speed braking. When pulling up to a stop sign it feels like I'm driving over a cattle guard. When pulling a trailer the vibes increase 10 fold.

 

My service manager thinks it might be a yoke issue as they had similar issues with Chevy trucks about 10 years ago. We are going to throw that at it and after that I will be on the phone with Chevy having a discussion about them "re-acquiring" this wonderful piece of machinery.

Posted

 

I am talking with a lemon law layer tomorrow how is your case going? I'm in north fl.

So far we haven't gotten a lawyer involved yet, I have his number very handy though! I'll update as soon as we get any info after dropping it off on Thursday. Make sure you send in the defect notice that's in the back of your lemon law book to notify them it will be their final repair attempt if you bring it in again. I also have a few videos from this last month documenting the vibrations if we go the lemon law route those will come in handy. Our service manager and advisor are also very much on our side which also helps a lot.
Posted

Alter Ego Trip... That sounds like my truck. I don't notice vibes when braking though. Slip yoke was going to be my next undertaking. Mine seems to have a lot of rotational slop in it. I don't know how much is allowed though. My dealer told me the vibes were normal, so now I'm doing this on my own. Let us know what you find out about your yoke.

Posted

Alter Ego Trip... That sounds like my truck. I don't notice vibes when braking though. Slip yoke was going to be my next undertaking. Mine seems to have a lot of rotational slop in it. I don't know how much is allowed though. My dealer told me the vibes were normal, so now I'm doing this on my own. Let us know what you find out about your yoke.

I'll keep you updated. I will take it in next week and get that done. The driveshaft on mine was out a balance quite a bit but balancing had zero effect on the vibration. It's also strange that mine is much worse when it's cold, then when it's hot out. That's the toughest thing about chasing this gremlin; it doesn't follow any pattern of consistency.

 

My service writer thought I was blowing things out of proportion till I had him drive it. He was blown away how noticeable and obnoxious it is. The other thing I'm noticing is an audible resonance from the vibration. My tech thought it was coming from the rear cab vents, so he blocked them off, with no change.

 

I really wanted to like Chevrolet, after owning them for years prior to switching over to Ram. My last one was an 07 and it was a great truck. Zero issues or complaints. Seems like those days are gone. I mean come on Chevy; if you are going to build a truck that is miles behind your competitors; at least build one that's reliable.

Posted

I'll keep you updated. I will take it in next week and get that done. The driveshaft on mine was out a balance quite a bit but balancing had zero effect on the vibration. It's also strange that mine is much worse when it's cold, then when it's hot out. That's the toughest thing about chasing this gremlin; it doesn't follow any pattern of consistency.

 

My service writer thought I was blowing things out of proportion till I had him drive it. He was blown away how noticeable and obnoxious it is. The other thing I'm noticing is an audible resonance from the vibration. My tech thought it was coming from the rear cab vents, so he blocked them off, with no change.

 

I really wanted to like Chevrolet, after owning them for years prior to switching over to Ram. My last one was an 07 and it was a great truck. Zero issues or complaints. Seems like those days are gone. I mean come on Chevy; if you are going to build a truck that is miles behind your competitors; at least build one that's reliable.

I think the yukons and subrubans have the same drone noise, if I remember right it was caused by the roof liner.

Posted

I think the yukons and subrubans have the same drone noise, if I remember right it was caused by the roof liner.

You're right, but I have yet to hear of the issue on a truck. Strange to say the least.

Posted

Well it looks like I'm regretting buying my 2015 Silverado two weeks ago, I just joined this forum today and lucky me, I have all the same issues everyone else does.

 

My other two posts are in the radio reception area. I used to install home theater, and own some of the best speakers in the world, and they are trying to tell me that the radio in the truck has nothing wrong with it... yea right. :banghead:

 

The thing I have noticed with the shaking is that it is on the cylinder deactivation, and it is far more prominent at highway speed than local "around town" driving. has anyone else noticed this or do you all have it all the time? and does it get worse as time goes on? My truck came straight off the show room floor, so I didn't actually drive the one I bought, I have driven and been in so many others with none have been anywhere near as bad as mine has turned out to be.

 

I would have said excessive road force in the tires could have been an issue, but for this many people, thats not going to be it. looks like I may be getting rid of my brand new truck and going back to the blue oval or the shiny animal... very disappointed with this truck, atleast I got a crazy deal and will actually make money trading it in. :crackup:

Posted

 

 

I used to install home theater, and own some of the best speakers in the world, and they are trying to tell me that the radio in the truck has nothing wrong with it... yea right. :banghead:

 

I'm a huge HT nut. What speakers are you running?

 

The thing I have noticed with the shaking is that it is on the cylinder deactivation, and it is far more prominent at highway speed than local "around town" driving. has anyone else noticed this or do you all have it all the time? and does it get worse as time goes on? My truck came straight off the show room floor, so I didn't actually drive the one I bought, I have driven and been in so many others with none have been anywhere near as bad as mine has turned out to be.

 

That's a completely different animal. We've had a couple trucks that have suffered extreme vibrations due to cylinder deactivation. Most of the issues you are reading here aren't from that, mine included.

 

very disappointed with this truck, atleast I got a crazy deal and will actually make money trading it in. :crackup:

 

Good luck with that. ;)

Posted

I'm a huge HT nut. What speakers are you running?

 

hey alter ego trip,

nice to hear from a fellow HT nut, I actually have 3 set-ups, Im only 24 so most of my stuff in newer, I just upgraded my two subs and I love them.

 

Sunroom:

Pioneer Elite SC-87

KEF R700 Fronts

KEF R800 dipole surrounds

KEF R600 center

SVS PC-12 Plus subwoofer

 

Basement Family Room;

Anthem MRX 310

Paradigm Prestige 75F Fronts

Paradigm Millenia ADP surrounds

Paradigm Prestige 55 Center

SVS PC-12 Plus subwoofer

 

Outdoor Patio:

Old NAD T773 receiver

(2) Niles RS6SI Pro

Im considering adding 3 OS6.5 SI speakers, an inground sub, and an outdoor screen with a projector to make my outdoor audio system a full HT system

 

of course I ran 14/4 and 14/2 cable and done as much bi-wiring as I can

 

 

 

That's a completely different animal. We've had a couple trucks that have suffered extreme vibrations due to cylinder deactivation. Most of the issues you are reading here aren't from that, mine included.

 

 

Sorry about that, I was referred to this thread from a different one. My trucks vibration is mostly on the cylinder deactivation and very noticeable at highway speed. have you heard of any fixes for it in your time here? I otherwise love the truck, except for the radio which I'm going to try to get GM to put something else in if I can get the vibration fixed... which seems unlikely now.

 

very disappointed with this truck, atleast I got a crazy deal and will actually make money trading it in. :crackup:

 

Good luck with that. ;)

 

as for making money trading the truck in, the dealer I bought it from made a mistake in the listing, its a $56,500 with all the options and accessories that they put on it, but they had it listed for $37,500 and they legally had to honor the price so thats what I got it for. They accidentally doubled the incentives in the listing, and left out one that I qualified for, and added about 8500 in options and accessories that they forgot to add to the price.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
    • Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !.    Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...