Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Jesse D, take a look at your truck bed. Mine is not centered behind the cab, what does yours look like?

I took a level and checked on the rear door same spot on each side, the bed is offset about and inch in one direction. I wonder if this causing some weird harmonics

 

Nice catch, I just checked mine with a small level. the driver side is basically dead nuts (depending on where you measure) the top of the bed is dead on, at the bottom of the door the bed is maybe 1/8 to 1/4 further in (behind the cab). The passenger side is slightly more off the whole length, maybe 1/4 to 3/8" of an inch (depending upon the spot). This does have the potential to be a slight part of the problem, but I don't see it being major.

 

I could see this as more of an issue if the bed was further out than the cab, but at least on mine, it isn't. I could be completely wrong, I haven't actually done the calculations to check. I'd have to go back through my notes and figure out how to find the turbulence of air on a plate or something similar. This wasn't the best subject I had in my engineering program, I'm better at the statics and dynamics of stuff, I'm hoping to get a job doing accident reconstruction soon.

Posted

So the update is: 6 trips to two dealers per GM. They have replaced Continental tires with Firestones and rebalanced them all twice on two visits. Then...they replaced the rear differential; the shaking persists.

 

I lost my mind on the GM clown that is assigned to my case. Basically he has said "we have done everything". So, he suggested I continue my open case with BBB.

 

I spoke to my local sales manager of the dealer I bought it from. He offered a trade in value that was "eh" and with that, I would still have to fork over $4000 to get into a new / identical truck. Currently I have a 2014 Sierra SLT with 18,500 miles.

 

I guess I was in "la la land" expecting that after all this hassle and months of trying to fix this, I would finally get a replacement truck.

 

The sales manager suggested if I wasn't happy with paying $4k for a difference, I should go thru arbitration.

 

Has anyone been thru that or know how that system works? Is it worth it, what do I need to know (good / bad) going into it?

 

Thank you all.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

Posted

So the update is: 6 trips to two dealers per GM. They have replaced Continental tires with Firestones and rebalanced them all twice on two visits. Then...they replaced the rear differential; the shaking persists.

 

I lost my mind on the GM clown that is assigned to my case. Basically he has said "we have done everything". So, he suggested I continue my open case with BBB.

 

I spoke to my local sales manager of the dealer I bought it from. He offered a trade in value that was "eh" and with that, I would still have to fork over $4000 to get into a new / identical truck. Currently I have a 2014 Sierra SLT with 18,500 miles.

 

I guess I was in "la la land" expecting that after all this hassle and months of trying to fix this, I would finally get a replacement truck.

 

The sales manager suggested if I wasn't happy with paying $4k for a difference, I should go thru arbitration.

 

Has anyone been thru that or know how that system works? Is it worth it, what do I need to know (good / bad) going into it?

 

Thank you all.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

I'm waiting for some replies from people here to get their opinions on contacting a law firm to start a class action suit over all of the issues. how would you feel about that? I do have a firm that I want to use.

  • Like 1
Posted

I feel it's an option. I'm frustrated. I could have said day #1 of contacting BBB and GM that I "want a new truck and that's that". I didn't say that. I spent well over $550 on gas alone going to and from dealers (I calculated mileage) and yet the problem persists.

 

It's not my problem there isn't another 2014 that GM can swap me into for no extra cash, but I shouldn't have to pay thousands more for an issue they can't fix; aside from the time and money I've spent at dealerships trying to remedy the issue.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

Posted

I feel it's an option. I'm frustrated. I could have said day #1 of contacting BBB and GM that I "want a new truck and that's that". I didn't say that. I spent well over $550 on gas alone going to and from dealers (I calculated mileage) and yet the problem persists.

 

It's not my problem there isn't another 2014 that GM can swap me into for no extra cash, but I shouldn't have to pay thousands more for an issue they can't fix; aside from the time and money I've spent at dealerships trying to remedy the issue.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

yea, I hear ya on that, I did some calculations based upon trade in values I got from ford, they know about the issues, and asked me which one I didn't like... they are taking an EXTRA 26% depreciation on top of the normal depreciation that we should be seeing (per edmunds for the Silverado), thats a ton of money that we are losing because of this, not to forget we are still dealing with the problems anyway, and GM isn't making the proper effort to fix them.

 

I'm contacting the firm on Monday, but like I said, I would like to see what everyone thinks, so thanks for your input. after doing some real thinking about how to proceed, I really feel that a class action is the best route, It would be far too hard and expensive for each person to try to do it on our own, At first I was skeptical, and even said that on here because our trucks would be killed on value, well that has already happened so it doesn't matter now.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok so got the truck back drove in on freeway today. They road force balanced the tires. Now the 65 to 80 shake is a 75 to 80 shake and is alot better but still their. Now my steering wheel has a slight shake, where i had no front shake before.

Posted

Ok so got the truck back drove in on freeway today. They road force balanced the tires. Now the 65 to 80 shake is a 75 to 80 shake and is alot better but still their. Now my steering wheel has a slight shake, where i had no front shake before.

sounds typical for how these issues have been going

Posted

I assume that they dident care where the tires/rims went so a bad rear became a bad front. Wonder how long i have to push for new tires or another brand and get these SRAs off

Posted

So the update is: 6 trips to two dealers per GM. They have replaced Continental tires with Firestones and rebalanced them all twice on two visits. Then...they replaced the rear differential; the shaking persists.

 

I lost my mind on the GM clown that is assigned to my case. Basically he has said "we have done everything". So, he suggested I continue my open case with BBB.

 

I spoke to my local sales manager of the dealer I bought it from. He offered a trade in value that was "eh" and with that, I would still have to fork over $4000 to get into a new / identical truck. Currently I have a 2014 Sierra SLT with 18,500 miles.

 

I guess I was in "la la land" expecting that after all this hassle and months of trying to fix this, I would finally get a replacement truck.

 

The sales manager suggested if I wasn't happy with paying $4k for a difference, I should go thru arbitration.

 

Has anyone been thru that or know how that system works? Is it worth it, what do I need to know (good / bad) going into it?

 

Thank you all.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

Your dealer can get you "trade in assistance". Given your circumstances, they'll send all your service records to GM and once it gets approved, you'll get anywhere from 4-6 k. Your situation is exactly how mine played out. I didn't have to take anything out of pocket and I received 5 k towards the negative equity on my truck. The thing is, you have to have another truck picked out BC your dealer has to send GM that vin to make sure you're indeed buying another

Posted

yea, I hear ya on that, I did some calculations based upon trade in values I got from ford, they know about the issues, and asked me which one I didn't like... they are taking an EXTRA 26% depreciation on top of the normal depreciation that we should be seeing (per edmunds for the Silverado), thats a ton of money that we are losing because of this, not to forget we are still dealing with the problems anyway, and GM isn't making the proper effort to fix them.

 

I'm contacting the firm on Monday, but like I said, I would like to see what everyone thinks, so thanks for your input. after doing some real thinking about how to proceed, I really feel that a class action is the best route, It would be far too hard and expensive for each person to try to do it on our own, At first I was skeptical, and even said that on here because our trucks would be killed on value, well that has already happened so it doesn't matter now.

According to Edmunds and KBB my truck after 1 year of ownership is worth more than I paid for it. You got to remember that the huge rebates on these trucks also greatly affects it used and trade in value. My truck stickered at 43k but I paid closer to 31K and so did alot of people on this forum. If I traded today I would not expect to get more than 26K for it if I was lucky. Don't let a bum truck ruin your life. Trade it, take the loss and move on with life!

Posted

So the update is: 6 trips to two dealers per GM. They have replaced Continental tires with Firestones and rebalanced them all twice on two visits. Then...they replaced the rear differential; the shaking persists.

 

I lost my mind on the GM clown that is assigned to my case. Basically he has said "we have done everything". So, he suggested I continue my open case with BBB.

 

I spoke to my local sales manager of the dealer I bought it from. He offered a trade in value that was "eh" and with that, I would still have to fork over $4000 to get into a new / identical truck. Currently I have a 2014 Sierra SLT with 18,500 miles.

 

I guess I was in "la la land" expecting that after all this hassle and months of trying to fix this, I would finally get a replacement truck.

 

The sales manager suggested if I wasn't happy with paying $4k for a difference, I should go thru arbitration.

 

Has anyone been thru that or know how that system works? Is it worth it, what do I need to know (good / bad) going into it?

 

Thank you all.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

We're going through exactly the same thing and have similar mileage as you on our 2014. We just finished our final repair attempt and have reopened our case with GM and the BBB. They have until the end of next week to contact us before we have to set an arbitration date. Multiple people at our dealership have told us it's time they get us in a new truck so we're lucky to have them on our side. The FL lemon law can only be pursued AFTER you've gone through the BBB. So at least it seems like here in FL the BBB is somewhat regulated by the attorney generals office. So once again I shall say, we will see!!!!!

Posted (edited)

Found the answer to the shake and vibration .

2015 Express Crew 5.7 great truck and smooth as glass so I guess this is goodby .

Best of luck to all of you with you trucks , it's been a ride to remember.

post-130693-0-53041800-1437875302_thumb.jpg

post-130693-0-53041800-1437875302_thumb.jpg

post-130693-0-53041800-1437875302_thumb.jpg

post-130693-0-53041800-1437875302_thumb.jpg

Edited by BillsLT
  • Like 2
Posted

This is not the first "dumped my Silverado for a Ram" post i've read just today. Looks like GM's "functioned as designed" and "it can't be fixed" excuses for the miriad of problems is becoming a boon to Chrysler. BTW, I have three defects that I've heard those excuses for on my truck.

Posted

According to Edmunds and KBB my truck after 1 year of ownership is worth more than I paid for it. You got to remember that the huge rebates on these trucks also greatly affects it used and trade in value. My truck stickered at 43k but I paid closer to 31K and so did alot of people on this forum. If I traded today I would not expect to get more than 26K for it if I was lucky. Don't let a bum truck ruin your life. Trade it, take the loss and move on with life!

my calculation take into account all of the incentives, I took the MSRP, deducted incentives, deducted 1 year worth of depreciation (even though my truck is less than a month old), and got my number from that. the dealers were taking 26% on top of all that, I would have considered taking a small hit... but not a $12,000 hit.

Posted

Found the answer to the shake and vibration .

2015 Express Crew 5.7 great truck and smooth as glass so I guess this is goodby .

Best of luck to all of you with you trucks , it's been a ride to remember.

congrats man, enjoy it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I know when I was looking around last year to see if someone handled Amsoil gear oil to buy at the retail level which of course means full price. I found an independent shop that works a lot on GM/Duramax pickups and they did not bring in the 75W-85 as they just stuck to the 75W-90 for the front and rear as a standard practice for the HD trucks which makes sense anyway for the higher hp/torque diesel and pulling heavy loads in four wheel drive. I haven't changed my diff oils yet but still plan on using the 75W-85 for the front diff as I highly doubt I will be beating on the truck and figured for my use type the bit thinner oil would be to my benefit for the winter for that slightly less drag. Very different weather here all winter vs northern Washington near the coast, that's for sure. 
    • Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...