Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just got off the phone with the dealer, they are claiming that replacing the tire has fix it, that it now rides smooth and is well within GM spec. I asked what they found with the radio, so he said to give him a minute so he can go ask what they found...... the guy completely forgot about it, it wasn't done. He is going to do it now, and call me again when they figure out what to do with that...

 

I highly doubt the tire fixed it, I have the 18's as well, and swapping the sets, rotating the sets around etc. never fixed it.... we shall see I suppose

Posted

Jesse D, any chance you can bring this up with your newly found GM friends? See if they could tell from PICO the difference between a tire out of round or a hub out of round? If the hubs are made overseas, they may not be heat treated correctly if at all and distorting.

I have checked runout on the hubs lateral and radial and they are tight. The bolt circle on the studs is a different story but the wheels are hub centric.

Posted

My complete rear axle was replaced and my vibration was eliminated. It was rotor to rotor - the full assembly.

 

What process did you have to go through to get that kind of work approved? Both dealers I've dealt with have replaced tires and rfb'd them but state they wont do anything else because the truck is "within spec" and can't get approval for any other work.... grrrr.

Posted

 

What process did you have to go through to get that kind of work approved? Both dealers I've dealt with have replaced tires and rfb'd them but state they wont do anything else because the truck is "within spec" and can't get approval for any other work.... grrrr.

 

My Yukon was pico-scoped and was not within spec, apparently. I also opened a case GM Canada's "Executive Review Team" who worked with my dealership and assigned a field engineer to work on it.

 

The vibration wasn't as bad as some have reported in this thread [water bottle videos], but it was felt in the pants and the steering wheel.

 

The rear axle replacement did not fix the buffeting or booming that other K2XX SUV folk experience. The buffeting was ultimately fixed after several tire replacements and road force balances. The booming was fixed by adding 6 dampers on the exhaust system.

Posted

I have checked runout on the hubs lateral and radial and they are tight. The bolt circle on the studs is a different story but the wheels are hub centric.

What is interesting about the wheel figment on these vehicles is that yes, they are hub centric. I measured my hubs and wheel bore and exactly size-on-size. So that absolutely constitutes hub centric. BUT, they still use conical lug nuts. Conical lug nuts are used in tapered holes to Center the wheel to the bolt circle. So, GM has built these with both centering mechanisms. And unless everything is machined perfectly, one will fight the other. What problems will that cause? Can't say. But from and engineering design perspective, it is not a great design.

 

FYI, my 1 ton has hub centric wheels and the lug nuts have a flat washer built in to them. Much like semi-truck wheels and lug nuts.

Posted

I bought a 2015 Silverado Z71 crew cab short bed around Thanksgiving 2015. At around the 1,000 mile mark, the truck started vibrating at interstate speeds over 70 mph. The vibration would come and go. One second it was fine, the next second the change in the center console would just about jump out of the console. Also seemed to get worse on trips where the transmission was at it's peak temp. If I could post a video it would blow your mind how bad it vibrated. Your whole body would itch after a 30 min ride. Back and forth and back and forth to the dealership, and after I tried 2 new sets of tires and 2 new sets of rims the vibration never changed. The dealership replaced the rear end, drive shaft, transmission and torque converter over a 6 month timeframe. The owner of the dealership finally came clean around month 5 and let me know that GM had been given thousands of bad transmissions from their supplier, and they didn't know which were good or which were bad. Tried working through GM for help, but they just referred me back to the dealer. It really sucks for the dealers because they have to deal with GM's mess. Long story short, they ended up giving me a new 2016 model just to make me go away. If you're dealing with this too and they tell you it's the tires, don't buy it for a second or waste money on new tires or rims. No telling how much money I've lost on this truck, not to mention the headaches and aggravation. It's a shame that GM is selling these $50,000 trucks knowing they have big issues. Drove by the dealership yesterday, and sure enough there's my old truck on the lot with a sale sticker on it. If you buy used, ask for the service history. Sure hate to see anyone else go through this. From what I've read and learned talking to service departments out of state, this issue is wide and deep affecting thousands of people. I've owned multiple Chevy's over the years, but this one is definitely my last.

  • Like 2
Posted

Well, I got a call from the dealer about an hour ago. They couldn't find anything for what was happening with my radio, so they called GM to work with them. GM admitted to the issue with losing all the highs, and audio fading, saying that its a rarer issue and gave the dealer a special update to do. I said, that I knew there was an update that could be done, but that I had heard mixed reviews on it, he then said that that one is for a different issue, and the one they did is 100% specific for the issue my radio has. So according to them, my truck is now 100% fixed, vibration and all. I'll be the judge of that, and I'll post the PI numbers for what was done when I pick the truck up tomorrow.

Posted

The booming was fixed by adding 6 dampers on the exhaust system.

If I could flex my ignorance a bit here please.

 

Could you elaborate more on this?

 

What do you mean the booming and which type of dampers were needed on the exhaust?

 

And did you have the OEM exhaust or an upgraded one.

 

Thanks in advance!

Posted

post-139332-1460722093_thumb.jpg

 

"The Boom" sounded like a 12" subwoofer was being flicked and would occur when driving at low speeds over expansion joints and concrete transitions. It was particularly annoying over washboard gravel or snow covered roads. The booming sound would originate from the rear of the vehicle as the rear wheels drove over the bumps.

 

The fix was to weld 6 dampers to my exhaust, similar to the one shown in the attached picture. The work order did not include any GM part numbers and looks to be a one-of. I don't have access to a lift to take pictures, but I do recall seeing at least 2 when my Yukon was in the air getting the BFGs installed.

 

No more buffeting, booming or vibrating!

post-139332-1460722093_thumb.jpg

post-139332-1460722093_thumb.jpg

post-139332-1460722093_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I bought a 2015 Silverado Z71 crew cab short bed around Thanksgiving 2015. At around the 1,000 mile mark, the truck started vibrating at interstate speeds over 70 mph. The vibration would come and go. One second it was fine, the next second the change in the center console would just about jump out of the console. Also seemed to get worse on trips where the transmission was at it's peak temp. If I could post a video it would blow your mind how bad it vibrated. Your whole body would itch after a 30 min ride. Back and forth and back and forth to the dealership, and after I tried 2 new sets of tires and 2 new sets of rims the vibration never changed. The dealership replaced the rear end, drive shaft, transmission and torque converter over a 6 month timeframe. The owner of the dealership finally came clean around month 5 and let me know that GM had been given thousands of bad transmissions from their supplier, and they didn't know which were good or which were bad. Tried working through GM for help, but they just referred me back to the dealer. It really sucks for the dealers because they have to deal with GM's mess. Long story short, they ended up giving me a new 2016 model just to make me go away. If you're dealing with this too and they tell you it's the tires, don't buy it for a second or waste money on new tires or rims. No telling how much money I've lost on this truck, not to mention the headaches and aggravation. It's a shame that GM is selling these $50,000 trucks knowing they have big issues. Drove by the dealership yesterday, and sure enough there's my old truck on the lot with a sale sticker on it. If you buy used, ask for the service history. Sure hate to see anyone else go through this. From what I've read and learned talking to service departments out of state, this issue is wide and deep affecting thousands of people. I've owned multiple Chevy's over the years, but this one is definitely my last.

So the owner said that GM got a bad batch of transmissions, and they replaced your transmission and torque converter but that still didn't fix your vibration issue? The same thing has been said about the rear ends in these trucks, GM rushed them into production, AAM cranked them out knowingly sending out of spec rear ends, some people who had the rear end changed said it fixed the issue some said it didn't, some said they had marginal improvement. Apparently GM built a lot of trucks with a bunch of different components that could cause these issues and they have no idea how to distinguish the source. It does however seem to be the most prevalent in the crew cab 4wd trucks, maybe this configuration is just best at transmitting the vibrations. Was your 2015 a 4x4? What model 2016 did you end up getting and does it have any vibration issues?

Posted

So the owner said that GM got a bad batch of transmissions, and they replaced your transmission and torque converter but that still didn't fix your vibration issue? The same thing has been said about the rear ends in these trucks, GM rushed them into production, AAM cranked them out knowingly sending out of spec rear ends, some people who had the rear end changed said it fixed the issue some said it didn't, some said they had marginal improvement. Apparently GM built a lot of trucks with a bunch of different components that could cause these issues and they have no idea how to distinguish the source. It does however seem to be the most prevalent in the crew cab 4wd trucks, maybe this configuration is just best at transmitting the vibrations. Was your 2015 a 4x4? What model 2016 did you end up getting and does it have any vibration issues?

It was a Z71 4X4 crew cab short box LT model. Also had to have an injector fixed (missed bad on acceleration), the hill descent system wouldn't work, and the battery kept going dead (something in the theft monitoring system was sticking on). Piece of junk top to bottom. New rear end and driveshaft changed nothing. Once they mentioned having to change the whole transmission and torque converter, accepting the truck back was out of the question at that point. With a rap sheet as long as my leg at 1,100 miles, no one would give me full trade credit when it was time for a new one, and I definitely wouldn't feel good selling it directly to an individual knowing the troubles it had. I assumed they would send it back to GM, but guess not. These poor dealerships are left holding the bag and taking all the heat from the buyers. It's just wrong any way you cut it. Only had the new truck for a couple days and so far it seems ok. Fingers crossed. Great looking truck though!!

Posted (edited)

Ok, I just picked my truck up and have a good amount of info to post for everyone.I will cover the repair attempts first, then at the bottom address more information I got from the foreman, so bear with me.

 

Vibration:

On the original pico-scope test, my truck registered 27 milli G's on a T1 (which is parts of the vehicle that rotate at tire speed). The GM threshold spec is 22 milli G's. So as it turns out, I really did have a bad tire, not by the RFB, (RFB measures the stiffness of the sidewall), but tread wise. When it was on the machine, the tire itself had lateral movement (lateral runout), so it was a manufacturing issue, and it was replaced.

 

On the second test, after getting the new tire, the truck registered 16 milli G's for the T1, although they did admit and put in writing on the service documents that it does increase in severity as the truck gets driven. Before even getting my keys, the Shop Foreman told me that I will still feel the vibration, it just won't be quite as bad. Specifically, he said that with a reading in the teens on the pico, you will still feel it, however GM doesn't consider below 22 milli G's a problem, yet the foreman agrees that feeling any vibration in a vehicle this expensive is ridiculous, and he would be as pissed as we all are.

 

As for my own road test, I was pissed off and just made the short back road trip back to my house, and didn't hit any highways. I can say however that atleast on the back roads, there is little if any improvement, possibly even slightly worse, I need to take a longer drive to rally figure it out. I will hit the highways over the next few days and report if I think it is any better then.

 

Radio:

As for the radio issue, they performed PI1374F, which is actually directed to the 2014 MY trucks that also have issues with fading radios'. This did help slightly with how the highs get lost, in the sense that it isn't quite as pronounced, but it still happens. In addition, the radio now makes an intermittent buzzing sound and gets more static than it ever used to. Thinking that maybe they took the unit out, and a connection came loose. I called them when I got home to ask if they did, and they said no, so the truck is going back on Tuesday regardless of the severity of the vibration on the highway.

 

GM Trade in:

So just for kicks, after they gave me the paperwork and said it was all fixed, I asked what they could do for me on getting me into a '16 Sierra, since my truck is now all set.... They offered 28k for my truck, and thats from a GM dealer... so even GM wont pay what the their own trucks are supposed to be worth, smdh.

 

Well maybe they can fix your radio.

Nope

 

More Info:

Jesse D, any chance you can bring this up with your newly found GM friends? See if they could tell from PICO the difference between a tire out of round or a hub out of round? If the hubs are made overseas, they may not be heat treated correctly if at all and distorting.

No, the Picoscope can not tell the difference between the tire and the hub, the hub spins at tire speed and is shown as part of a T1 Vibe, it is up to the tech to figure what part could be causing the vibration.

 

So as we know, GM lowered their RFB spec, industry standard is 30 lbs, GM has decided theirs is now 25 lbs, allegedly to try to help the vibration we all have. Mine all registered 16lbs or lower.

 

GM has set their threshold PICO number to 22 milli G's, yet the vibration will still be felt even lower than that, like my truck for example at 16 milli G's

 

GM currently has 37 PI's in their system all related to attempting to fix vibration in their SUV' and Truck' (the foreman showed me the system on the computer)

 

Some people like myself have noticed that we have paid for upgraded A/T tires, yet got Wrangler SRA' tires, a highway all season tire. Per the shop foreman, GM decided that the Wrangler SRA is an A/T tire, even though industry says its not, and neither does GoodYear for that matter. (the foreman agrees that the SRA is not an A/T tire).

 

Both the shop foreman and the sales manager I spoke with suggested continually calling GM to complain and say you're very unhappy with the trucks, and to try to make as much noise about the problems as we can.

 

NEW RECALL:

In case anyone hasn't heard it yet, GM is now recalling 1.04 million 2014 and 2015 Pickups because of faulty seat belts. check your vins everyone.

Edited by Jesse D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.
    • 3.59 Kroger’s in Montgomery Tx. 20 cents higher than most around here. Very unusual. Saturday they were 3.49. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...