Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, I called GM today, Told them that I had picked up my truck from its 5th repair attempt yesterday, and it still isn't fixed. I decided to start off playing nice, so instead of going into it angry and demanding they buy it back or I'll sue them, I simply asked what can be done, because it's to the point that I hate this truck, and don't want it anymore. They were courteous and appeared to understand (likely acting, as taking calls from pissed off people is their job), anyway, they initial representative transferred me to their "Senior Advisers" who asked me more questions, They are reaching out to the DM and the Manager of After Sales (or whatever the hell it is) at my new servicing GMC dealer, even though I have a Chevy (I did straight tell them, I will never go back to Best Chevrolet because of their service department, so they allowed it to be set up with the GMC dealer). they want 48 business hours to reach out and hear back from these people, and I will be contacted with what decided to do. If at this point, they aren't willing give me any options that are acceptable, I will file suit.

After the operation "Polish the Turd" invariably fails, it is time to initiate the operation "Buy the Turd Back".

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Pull the trigger and quit letting these folks drive the train, you just have one of those trucks that can't be fixed. You'll take a financial hit, but quit wasting your time, get something that works.

I agree, I have decided to push for a full buyback, and I'm going to change brands. I just can't bring myself to take another GM, even if it costs me less money. I know for a fact that the 2016's have the problems, and I suspect the 2017's will as well, since they aren't doing a heavy redesign until atleast 2018 if not 2019. Then I never buy a product in its first MY run, so that makes it 2019 or 2020, until I'd even be willing to try another. There is no way they would let it go until then. In addition, I have lost so much respect for GM through this, that in all reality I never want to own another GM product anyway.

 

I just got a letter from a Lemon Law attorney wanting to know if I've had any issues with my 2014 SIlverado LOL

 

www.LemonJustice.com

 

LOL

It's the DMA (District Manager After-Sales). They are the local decision makers on buy backs and trade assistance, they are given a budget to pacify aggravated customers in their district. Sometimes they offer buy back and other times they offer trade assistance. If they offer trade assistance it is used to help offset the depreciation of your vehicle towards another GM vehicle. The average customer doesn't get to talk directly to the DMA, normally the dealership Service Manager communicates directly with the DMA and relays the info to the customer. If the DMA offers you a deal and you accept then a GM corporate repurchase coordinator will contact you directly and provide assistance through the entire process. Good luck!!

I've basically decided that I don't want to even risk another GM as I know the 2016's have the same issues, and I suspect the 2017's will aswell

 

After the operation "Polish the Turd" invariably fails, it is time to initiate the operation "Buy the Turd Back".

LOL

 

At this point, I don't know which I will go with, all three have positives and negatives.

 

RAM:

+ great audio system

+ best FE in the 1/2 ton segment

+ drive lines have been great as of late

+ great riding truck

- I hate the amount of flex in the black paint (incase anyone doesn't know what flex is, it is metallic pieces in the paint, think of sparkles that kids use)

- again with the paint, they use a black pearl... it just has an odd look in my opinion

- Not the biggest fan of the rims they utilize, but I can always replace those

- The truck says RAM or have the RAM logo EVERYWHERE

FORD:

+ Workhorse of a truck

+ lots of great features and a pretty good audio system

+ black paint is good looking

+ pretty good looking rims

+/- Rides more like a truck than GM... unsure about this

- have had reports of vibrations issues as of late

- have had some issues with paint adhering to the aluminum panels

- were having issues with the left side cylinder heads (This was fixed if I remember correctly)

TOYOTA:

+ tried and true drive train

+ has serious balls for towing

+ fairly good JBL audio system

- worst fuel economy in the 1/2 ton segment

- body style is a bit round for my liking

Edited by Jesse D
Posted

Rejected a buy back, got into a new truck (only by he grave of God and my local service / sales managers Doing the leg work for me). I let GM know exactly what I thought of their shitty offers and my problems with my last truck. No response.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

Posted

So what did you get ?

nothing yet, I havn't heard back.... I was just posting what I've decided to do, and what my thoughts are

Posted (edited)

It seems that there are a lot more trucks than what is just on these forums with this issue. I bet some people who have no idea about how a vehicle works have this issue and blow it off or don't pay attention to it.

Edited by Daryl Z71
  • Like 1
Posted

I agree, I have decided to push for a full buyback, and I'm going to change brands. I just can't bring myself to take another GM, even if it costs me less money. I know for a fact that the 2016's have the problems, and I suspect the 2017's will as well, since they aren't doing a heavy redesign until at least 2018 if not 2019. Then I never buy a product in its first MY run, so that makes it 2019 or 2020, until I'd even be willing to try another.

 

GM will mix and match some things, even change out parts and components that are not broken, all in an "attempt" at decreasing the shaking to pacify owners. But nothing will be fixed until the next gen, 18 or 19 is what I say too. Not buying a first year of a new gen used to be the rule, but I don't know if that doesn't extend to year two and three these days.

 

C6Bill could probably talk you into a Toyota.

  • Like 1
Posted

Rejected a buy back, got into a new truck (only by he grave of God and my local service / sales managers Doing the leg work for me). I let GM know exactly what I thought of their shitty offers and my problems with my last truck. No response.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

 

 

What did you get?

Posted

 

GM will mix and match some things, even change out parts and components that are not broken, all in an "attempt" at decreasing the shaking to pacify owners. But nothing will be fixed until the next gen, 18 or 19 is what I say too. Not buying a first year of a new gen used to be the rule, but I don't know if that doesn't extend to year two and three these days.

 

C6Bill could probably talk you into a Toyota.

That I believe, I'm currently leaning toward Ford

Posted

Rejected a buy back, got into a new truck (only by he grave of God and my local service / sales managers Doing the leg work for me). I let GM know exactly what I thought of their shitty offers and my problems with my last truck. No response.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

That Sucks Aaron, atleast you're into a new truck now, what is it.

Posted (edited)

Actually I might have gotten a Ford but it is too tall for my garage. So was the Ram. So I had a short list to choose from lol

 

 

Now back to Aaron, WHAT DID YOU GET !!!!!!

Edited by C6Bill
Posted

 

TOYOTA

+ tried and true drive train

+ has serious balls for towing

+ fairly good JBL audio system

- worst fuel economy in the 1/2 ton segment

- body style is a bit round for my liking

 

Couldn't let this pass without comment.

I had a Tundra and can tell you towing is not a strong point....very very weak even at 3000 lbs. Don't let HP fool you it's useable torque that gets the job done. I towed a small travel trailer to AK a few years ago and averaged 8mpg and had to use select shift to get half a$$ed results. Miserable trip. The fuel map stinks and the Tundra runs high R's, no torque to lug. My dealer got Toyota techs to fly in to see if there was anything wrong....working as designed, ha ha. Towing my boat or enclosed snowmobile trailer were marginal and always looking for gas. While reliable, the drive train is pretty much unchanged from 2007. Toyota hasn't got trucks figured out.

Posted

TOYOTA

+ tried and true drive train

+ has serious balls for towing

+ fairly good JBL audio system

- worst fuel economy in the 1/2 ton segment

- body style is a bit round for my liking

 

Couldn't let this pass without comment.

I had a Tundra and can tell you towing is not a strong point....very very weak even at 3000 lbs. Don't let HP fool you it's useable torque that gets the job done. I towed a small travel trailer to AK a few years ago and averaged 8mpg and had to use select shift to get half a$$ed results. Miserable trip. The fuel map stinks and the Tundra runs high R's, no torque to lug. My dealer got Toyota techs to fly in to see if there was anything wrong....working as designed, ha ha. Towing my boat or enclosed snowmobile trailer were marginal and always looking for gas. While reliable, the drive train is pretty much unchanged from 2007. Toyota hasn't got trucks figured out.

Good to know, I havn't heard that about the towing, I've always heard that it was really good with it. I did mention their FE is terrible though haha

Posted

Well, I've had a chance to drive some more miles since the Fox coil-over install, and rear 1.5" lift. Still, so far it feels really good. Just a very small amount of feedback in the steering wheel at a certain speed range. I feel like I can tweak it bit, and improve that. However, if I can't, it's so minor that if I don't think about it I don't notice it.

 

Nearly done with the first phase of a kitchen remodel here at the house. So hopefully I'll time this week to play with it some.

Posted

 

 

How did this work? Did they buy back for MSRP plus the payments you have already made? Then, did you turn around and use that money to purchase the new truck? Were you out any money (i.e. difference in MSRP, sales tax again, etc?)

They gave me back exactly what I paid minus a usage fee ....then I just paid th msrp to msrp sle to slt difference on my 16....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...