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AllTerrain13 Enthusiast

AllTerrain13

Posted
Posted

I sure hope that dealership isn't telling you that the wheel weights have anything to do with the Road Force measurements. If the are, then they are completely incompetent and will not be able to get the wheel/tires assemblies correct.

 

Road Force and mass balancing are two completely different issues and high Road Force cannot be corrected with wheel weights. If the wheel/tire has high Road Force numbers, that is caused by wheel runout, tire runout, or tire non-uniformity or any combination of the three. (Non-uniformity is variation in the stiffness of the tire tread and/or sidewall around the circumference of the tire). The only chance to correct Road Force is to re-index the wheel to the tire to cancel out Runout in the wheel and the tire. But guess what,mthatbonly works if both the wheel and the tire have some runout. If only one has,my our are SCREWED - cannot fix the Road Force variation numbers. Need to replace the offending component. And , if the hig Road Force variation numbers are caused by tire non-uniformity, you might be able to counter-act some of it with reindexing to the wheel but again, only if the wheel,has some runout. If it s true, need a new tire!

 

So , I think these dealers are screwing with us when they say they correctly the Road Force. I don't believe it. They are either full of crap or the technicians don't have a clue how to run the machine and are making it up smother don't look incompetent and get fired! And don't forget, GM is paying them flat rate to do this, so home much time do you think they really spend fine tuning these tires? Ha!

 

Lastly, after the assembly has been Road Force checked and adjusted as best as possible, a separate step is to do the traditional dynamic weight balance. That's where wheel weights get used.

 

Here is the report from the dealership from the last road force balance. Vibration is still there.

 

"Check road force balance L/R 9lb rebalance, R/R 10lb rebalance, L/F 28lb bead tire down then turn tire, recheck 20lb rebalance, R/F 22lb bead tire down then turn tire, recheck 18lb rebalance 8060272 0.9 Turn tires 0.4 Road Force Balance 0.9"

 

Anyone care to put that in english for me? It looks like the Front tires are square?

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csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

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Severado Enthusiast

Severado

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Here is the report from the dealership from the last road force balance. Vibration is still there.

 

"Check road force balance L/R 9lb rebalance, R/R 10lb rebalance, L/F 28lb bead tire down then turn tire, recheck 20lb rebalance, R/F 22lb bead tire down then turn tire, recheck 18lb rebalance 8060272 0.9 Turn tires 0.4 Road Force Balance 0.9"

 

Anyone care to put that in english for me? It looks like the Front tires are square?

Short version, the current L/F and R/F need to be replaced. 28 and 20 RFB is too high. They should have placed​ the L/R and R/R in the front. Lowest RFB tire with the driver. Edited by Severado
MOORE1968 Enthusiast

MOORE1968

Posted
Posted

This vibration issue is getting old and GM needs to freakin figure it out. I have a 2015 with 45,000 miles, been shaking since around 4000 miles. Due to time issues and work I didn't have time to keep taking it to the dealer. Around 9000 miles started hearing what sound like a bad wheel bearing, took it in and found the tires to be feathering / wearing on the inside. which told me the toe is out of adjustment. Then the advisor and service manage advise that is not under warrantly, so much for the 3/36000 mile claim of a warranty HUH. they never adjusted the toe and I just kept driving it and dealing with the vibration and stay either under 70 or above 78 MPH. I finally bought new wheels and tires , vibration still there. I truly believe it's the driveshaft, but haven't the money to spend on getting it replace because I hardly doubt warrantly will PAY for it and I truly don't trust any chevy service center for any honest answers with honest results. SO, do I just continue dealing with the vibration crap or what? Haven't go a clue! I suppose the driveshaft can be condsider part of the drive train, which I'm told is covered for 5 years/ 100,000 miles, but again I don't trust the word of the dealerships. If they can tell me they will replace the shaft under warranty I'll let them replace it, but it will not be replace with the same cheap , poor quality crap made from mexico.

 

I could always go trade it in for a ford F250, which to me would be the inpardonable sin!

  • Like 1
Severado Enthusiast

Severado

Posted
Posted

This vibration issue is getting old and GM needs to freakin figure it out. I have a 2015 with 45,000 miles, been shaking since around 4000 miles. Due to time issues and work I didn't have time to keep taking it to the dealer. Around 9000 miles started hearing what sound like a bad wheel bearing, took it in and found the tires to be feathering / wearing on the inside. which told me the toe is out of adjustment. Then the advisor and service manage advise that is not under warrantly, so much for the 3/36000 mile claim of a warranty HUH. they never adjusted the toe and I just kept driving it and dealing with the vibration and stay either under 70 or above 78 MPH. I finally bought new wheels and tires , vibration still there. I truly believe it's the driveshaft, but haven't the money to spend on getting it replace because I hardly doubt warrantly will PAY for it and I truly don't trust any chevy service center for any honest answers with honest results. SO, do I just continue dealing with the vibration crap or what? Haven't go a clue! I suppose the driveshaft can be condsider part of the drive train, which I'm told is covered for 5 years/ 100,000 miles, but again I don't trust the word of the dealerships. If they can tell me they will replace the shaft under warranty I'll let them replace it, but it will not be replace with the same cheap , poor quality crap made from mexico.

 

I could always go trade it in for a ford F250, which to me would be the inpardonable sin!

There are many possible remedies in this thread. Only real fix is to move on. Otherwise do what you can to mitigate the symptoms. Better shocks, bigger sidewalls, high quality driveshaft, gears and axles. All costly and no guarantee of satisfaction. I'm real fkin' stubborn. Going to stick with this truck until GM or I fix it.
  • Like 1
MOORE1968 Enthusiast

MOORE1968

Posted
Posted

There are many possible remedies in this thread. Only real fix is to move on. Otherwise do what you can to mitigate the symptoms. Better shocks, bigger sidewalls, high quality driveshaft, gears and axles. All costly and no guarantee of satisfaction. I'm real fkin' stubborn. Going to stick with this truck until GM or I fix it.

Agreed. I'm a chevy man and really can't see myself driving any other truck, but it does piss me off and I'm sure many more. I just don't feel I should have to go through the expense to fix it or improve it. I suppose I'll just have to do what I've been doing, Deal with it. Just a damn shame.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted (edited)

Short version, the current L/F and R/F need to be replaced. 28 and 20 RFB is too high. They should have placed​ the L/R and R/R in the front. Lowest RFB tire with the driver.

Actually, he got the 28 lb force variation tire down to 20 lb, and the 22 lb tire down to 18 by breaking the bead and rotating each tire relative to the rim. I do not know what the force variation upper limit is for these truck tires, but for truck tires common upper limit is 30 lbs. Maybe GM cut that in half to 15 lb? Be it as it may, a truck tire with 18 and 20 lb force variation should be serviceable and be capable of being properly balanced.

 

It seems that balancing these tires properly is the main problem here. The best way is to use a wheel lug adapter (plate) that holds the wheel on the balancer the same way it is mounted on the truck. For large diameter wheels, use of traditional balancing cones may not produce the best results.

Edited by pm26
C6Bill Enthusiast

C6Bill

Posted
Posted (edited)

Agreed. I'm a chevy man and really can't see myself driving any other truck, but it does piss me off and I'm sure many more. I just don't feel I should have to go through the expense to fix it or improve it. I suppose I'll just have to do what I've been doing, Deal with it. Just a damn shame.

 

For close to 35 years I considered myself a GM guy. I thought anyone who didn't drive a vehicle made in the USA was a communist. This version of General Motors has changed my thinking, best thing I ever did was move on from GM. I will NEVER buy another GM made vehicle. For many years I had a Chevy truck and a Corvette in my garage, now I have a Japanese SUV and a British car. Never thought that would happen lol

Edited by C6Bill
  • Like 3
Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

 

Yup, get a 2018, I heard on the internet they are fine lol

 

Would anyone be silly enough to do that ??? I bet someone will and they will be right back here when it hits 800 miles and it starts vibrating :ughdance:

Allegedly the 2018 will be a full redesign..... Who will be the first guinea pig? Not Me :)

 

This vibration issue is getting old and GM needs to freakin figure it out. I have a 2015 with 45,000 miles, been shaking since around 4000 miles. Due to time issues and work I didn't have time to keep taking it to the dealer. Around 9000 miles started hearing what sound like a bad wheel bearing, took it in and found the tires to be feathering / wearing on the inside. which told me the toe is out of adjustment. Then the advisor and service manage advise that is not under warrantly, so much for the 3/36000 mile claim of a warranty HUH. they never adjusted the toe and I just kept driving it and dealing with the vibration and stay either under 70 or above 78 MPH. I finally bought new wheels and tires , vibration still there. I truly believe it's the driveshaft, but haven't the money to spend on getting it replace because I hardly doubt warrantly will PAY for it and I truly don't trust any chevy service center for any honest answers with honest results. SO, do I just continue dealing with the vibration crap or what? Haven't go a clue! I suppose the driveshaft can be condsider part of the drive train, which I'm told is covered for 5 years/ 100,000 miles, but again I don't trust the word of the dealerships. If they can tell me they will replace the shaft under warranty I'll let them replace it, but it will not be replace with the same cheap , poor quality crap made from mexico.

 

I could always go trade it in for a ford F250, which to me would be the inpardonable sin!

I love my ferd. Went from an 07 ferd to a 15 silvy to a 17 Sierra to my current 16 ferd. Trust me its not a sin, its magical to love the vehicle you drive again.

 

There are many possible remedies in this thread. Only real fix is to move on. Otherwise do what you can to mitigate the symptoms. Better shocks, bigger sidewalls, high quality driveshaft, gears and axles. All costly and no guarantee of satisfaction. I'm real fkin' stubborn. Going to stick with this truck until GM or I fix it.

you poor sap

 

 

For close to 35 years I considered myself a GM guy. I thought anyone who didn't drive a vehicle made in the USA was a communist. This version of General Motors has changed my thinking, best thing I ever did was move on from GM. I will NEVER buy another GM made vehicle. For many years I had a Chevy truck and a Corvette in my garage, now I have a Japanese SUV and a British car. Never thought that would happen lol

lol.... I see you made some friends Bill :ninja:

  • Like 1
Severado Enthusiast

Severado

Posted
Posted

I am a poor sap. But I'm not sticking with this truck because of loyalty. I like the truck other than the obvious. I've only had it for about​ a year, and trading out means taking a hit. After 7 visits to the dealer, I know this problem is mine, because they treat me like it is. So patience and trying to work out the kinks is all I can do. And eventually one of us will find something that makes the shake tolerable. A taller sidewall on 18s has been better than the OEM 20s for me. Next are high quality dampeners. Baby steps man. Like I said before. This thread is full of possible remedies. I'm working on mine.

  • Like 1
Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

I am a poor sap. But I'm not sticking with this truck because of loyalty. I like the truck other than the obvious. I've only had it for about​ a year, and trading out means taking a hit. After 7 visits to the dealer, I know this problem is mine, because they treat me like it is. So patience and trying to work out the kinks is all I can do. And eventually one of us will find something that makes the shake tolerable. A taller sidewall on 18s has been better than the OEM 20s for me. Next are high quality dampeners. Baby steps man. Like I said before. This thread is full of possible remedies. I'm working on mine.

lol to each their own. just so we are clear I meant the comment to the you admitting that you're too stubborn to give up and are sticking with it until its fixed. I don't know about anyone else, but when I buy something, I expect it to work properly and when it doesn't I expect it to be fixed.

 

Hope you get a fix bud

Silverado 6.2 Enthusiast

Silverado 6.2

Posted
Posted

This vibration issue is getting old and GM needs to freakin figure it out. I have a 2015 with 45,000 miles, been shaking since around 4000 miles. Due to time issues and work I didn't have time to keep taking it to the dealer. Around 9000 miles started hearing what sound like a bad wheel bearing, took it in and found the tires to be feathering / wearing on the inside. which told me the toe is out of adjustment. Then the advisor and service manage advise that is not under warrantly, so much for the 3/36000 mile claim of a warranty HUH. they never adjusted the toe and I just kept driving it and dealing with the vibration and stay either under 70 or above 78 MPH. I finally bought new wheels and tires , vibration still there. I truly believe it's the driveshaft, but haven't the money to spend on getting it replace because I hardly doubt warrantly will PAY for it and I truly don't trust any chevy service center for any honest answers with honest results. SO, do I just continue dealing with the vibration crap or what? Haven't go a clue! I suppose the driveshaft can be condsider part of the drive train, which I'm told is covered for 5 years/ 100,000 miles, but again I don't trust the word of the dealerships. If they can tell me they will replace the shaft under warranty I'll let them replace it, but it will not be replace with the same cheap , poor quality crap made from mexico.

 

I could always go trade it in for a ford F250, which to me would be the inpardonable sin!

As long as you have had it to the dealership before for the Vibration before the warranty ran out it should be covered after warranty runs out because it is an on going issue that has never been fixed.

  • Like 1
MOORE1968 Enthusiast

MOORE1968

Posted
Posted

 

For close to 35 years I considered myself a GM guy. I thought anyone who didn't drive a vehicle made in the USA was a communist. This version of General Motors has changed my thinking, best thing I ever did was move on from GM. I will NEVER buy another GM made vehicle. For many years I had a Chevy truck and a Corvette in my garage, now I have a Japanese SUV and a British car. Never thought that would happen lol

myy plan was not to buy another vehicle for another 10 years, that will put me around 60 years old. Wanted to drive this Silverado until the wheels fell off then replace the wheels and drive it some more. I have too many projects and planned projects that is preventing me from trading this truck in for a ford, man it's hard to say that four letter f word. LOL! I'll just have to see how things go. I may just have to fork out the cost little at a time on this truck, but there isn't a guarantee any of the above recommendations will fix the problem.

 

I used to pull wrenches for a living when I was younger and started when I was about 14. Although the main cause of this vibration can be almost anything, the driveshaft was the 1st thing that crossed my mind when I first started having the trouble. I was highly disappointed after I forked out the money on new wheels and tires after I left the tire shop and hit the highway, it really sucked. oh well, maybe GM will have a fix before I spend to much money and I'm not holding my breath on that at all. j

 

Big thanks to all who replied, I really appreciate it.

farml1234 Enthusiast

farml1234

Posted
Posted

Well I got my windshield fixed and the welds on the front roof post were ok and we really looked them over good . The bad news is the shake is getting worse so my guess it is just a matter of time before this truck really breaks ! I will not do anything to stop it from shaking up front even tho my fix has worked in the past ! When you have days that you can take it up to 74 MPH and the truck is so smooth and quite that should tell the GM engineers something ! This joke is kind of like the GM key joke !!

Hey just one more thing on my truck it has nothing to do with the D shaft , axles , pinion , wheels or the frame !!! Now I will let you smart guys figure it out as there is NOT much left to look at !

Salernophotog Enthusiast

Salernophotog

Posted
Posted

I do not have the shake when I have my stock 18 wheels and tires w/ the goodyears. But when I put my CK160 knockoffs on w/ hankooks on I get the shake at 70+mph. Here's the thing.... I do not get the shake when I have the stocks on the front and the CK160 on the back. Smooth as glass. Any thoughts?

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