Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 12/30/2016 at 5:49 PM, CHowell1991 said:

I got my 2015 leveled yesterday with 285/75r18s on stock wheels. 2.25" readylift. e9fb32455eb6e7a1ab4290d687ba3600.jpg4f06d63c867457887ff070665de117df.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

U have any rub or trim on that set up

Posted
On 12/30/2016 at 5:49 PM, CHowell1991 said:

I got my 2015 leveled yesterday with 285/75r18s on stock wheels. 2.25" readylift. e9fb32455eb6e7a1ab4290d687ba3600.jpg4f06d63c867457887ff070665de117df.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do they rub and any trim u had to do

Posted (edited)
On 11/15/2018 at 2:28 PM, TXGREEK said:

Everybody get ready!

Awesome Black Friday deals coming
62eea3b81e0c3e419afa9413a7f4c333.jpg


Sent from above

I’m trying to take advantage of this, but can’t get ahold of CST via email, phone, or facebook messenger.  I’d like to get their front leveling coilovers and upper control arms, but don’t see any matching rear shocks on their site.  Does anyone know if they offer a basic Dirt Series 2.0 shock non-resi to replace my stock Ranchos?  Something exactly like the FOX 2.0 and Icon 2.0 non-resi shocks.

 

The closest part number I could find on their site is the CSR-5530 but that is listed for the new 2019s only.

 

On a side note, MRT and SDHQ have been very responsive to questions about other setups that I am pricing out.  Right now I am leaning towards the Icon stage 1 and will add their delta joint UCAs.

Edited by BbyDgital
Posted
I’m trying to take advantage of this, but can’t get ahold of CST via email, phone, or facebook messenger.  I’d like to get their front leveling coilovers and upper control arms, but don’t see any matching rear shocks on their site.  Does anyone know if they offer a basic Dirt Series 2.0 shock non-resi to replace my stock Ranchos?  Something exactly like the FOX 2.0 and Icon 2.0 non-resi shocks.
 
The closest part number I could find on their site is the CSR-5530 but that is listed for the new 2019s only.


They may be closed for the holidays, try them back on Monday. They do have the shocks you want.
Posted

The dealer had put on 22s.  I had them changed to 18s.  I also had Bilstein 5100s installed at the highest setting and also replaced the shocks in the back with Bilstein.  I love the stiffer ride.  I don't bounce all over the place now when I hit a bump.

Collage 2018-11-25 21_10_55.jpg

Posted

Can anyone post a picture of what their ball joints look like with the 2in Rough Country leveling kit? I need to compare them to mine.

Posted

I'm sure this has been asked, but I'm lost and a little confused yet.

 

For my 2018 Sierra 1500, I am going to add GY DuraTracs, 275/60/20 (a 33" tire) and a 1.5"-2.0" front level kit (Rough Country).  Do I need to do anything with the UCA?

 

 

Posted
Can anyone post a picture of what their ball joints look like with the 2in Rough Country leveling kit? I need to compare them to mine.
Not RC bit this is what mine looked like when I had the Readylift 2.25"
940f759f74c2e3bc587648fb29e256a5.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
14 minutes ago, Fix29 said:

Not RC bit this is what mine looked like when I had the Readylift 2.25"
940f759f74c2e3bc587648fb29e256a5.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

Thanks, did you Readylift kit come with UCA's? I don't see the ball joint as crushed as with a Rough country 2in Kit. 

Edited by Morenar
mispelling
Posted
Thanks, did you Readylift kit come with UCA's? I don't see the ball joint as crushed as with a Rough country 2in Kit. 
It did not. This picture is with the stock stamped steel upper control arms.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Posted
On 9/12/2018 at 5:37 PM, SNAFU88 said:

Didn't care for the nose-high appearance of the truck with the 2" level so I installed the 2 inch rear block to give it a bit of rake again.  Subtle difference but just enough to fix the problem. Before and after:

 

80-_img_2218_e5853e5f6a94e36608f0f7f4897

 

80-_rearblock_624115fe5289acb3707d038cd4

 

 

I love your wheel and tire choice.  That looks great.  Very old school and cool. Any other pictures?

Posted
15 hours ago, Kurtj29 said:

I love your wheel and tire choice.  That looks great.  Very old school and cool. Any other pictures?

Thanks, man.  285/70-17s on 17x9 et -6 Pro Comps:

 

80-img_5404_4fab0d5fc7b42be38382f1088b05

 

80-img_5409_b6b3c15a4768edb60c3fd7e21127

 

Recently added a tool box:

 

80-img_0522_b7d7932291350f5e51f9f0d9783a

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, SouthpawHD said:

I'm sure this has been asked, but I'm lost and a little confused yet.

 

For my 2018 Sierra 1500, I am going to add GY DuraTracs, 275/60/20 (a 33" tire) and a 1.5"-2.0" front level kit (Rough Country).  Do I need to do anything with the UCA?

 

 

 

I asked this question above, but I am also contemplating going 285/55/20 instead of the 60 tire to avoid any potential rubbing.  That tire is about a 32" tall tire, so only 1" taller than stock.

 

Would that 285/55 be a better option to avoid rubbing and potential UCA issues?  I really do not want to get into something and then have to throw a bunch more money trying to fix it because it was the wrong tire choice.

Edited by SouthpawHD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...