Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Thinking about leveling with Kings. I prefer the look in the first picture. 2" in front and 1" blocks in the rear. Going to try 285/55r22 - with whatever trimming is necessary. maybe wheel spacers too. I know the internet will hate this idea, but from what I've seen this sort of combo looks incredible. 
 
Super nice looking truck, in both configurations. Like this look the best, not too lifted or extreme. Good Taste In execution IMHO.
 
I'll take a look at CST.
 


Thank you. I’ve heard great things about King coilovers too. I only have experience with CST Suspension system which currently gives an amazing better than stock ride. Btw, I’d recommend whom ever you do go with to “please” get their expert advice as to their recommendations. Going with coilovers is completely unmatched in ride quality. CST guided me through the whole process as I’m sure King will do the same. Good luck and please do keep us updated. Have a great Christmas!
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

pronstar Enthusiast

pronstar

Posted
Posted
Thinking about leveling with Kings.

 

 

Any truck I’ll ever own, will have King’s.

 

They ain’t cheap, so it really depends on your priorities.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 1
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
 
Any truck I’ll ever own, will have King’s.
 
They ain’t cheap, so it really depends on your priorities.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


You have rear King Shocks, and if so what’s the model info and your honest opinion on ride quality?
pronstar Enthusiast

pronstar

Posted
Posted

 

You have rear King Shocks, and if so what’s the model info and your honest opinion on ride quality?

 

 

I believe the King PN is 25001-154

The invoice from my buddy’s shop just says KINGREAR LOL

 

This is my first Chevy truck.

I usually opt for custom valving but was reco’d to try the stock valving first.

I also wanted Deaver’s, but was reco’d to try the stock leafs first.

 

I won’t be making any changes to this setup.

 

Ride quality is amazing.

There’s a lot of compliance, then they firm-up as they compress for good bottom-out resistance.

Rebound is very controlled, no pogo-effect off-road.

 

I don’t slow down for things like speed bumps...no need.

 

I stepped down to a 1500 so I didn’t have to spend huge money getting a good ride out of another 3/4 ton truck.

 

Very happy with the ride quality.

Especially considering I have E Rated Nitto MT tires.

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 1
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
 
 
I believe the King PN is 25001-154
The invoice from my buddy’s shop just says KINGREAR LOL
 
This is my first Chevy truck.
I usually opt for custom valving but was reco’d to try the stock valving first.
I also wanted Deaver’s, but was reco’d to try the stock leafs first.
 
I won’t be making any changes to this setup.
 
Ride quality is amazing.
There’s a lot of compliance, then they firm-up as they compress for good bottom-out resistance.
Rebound is very controlled, no pogo-effect off-road.
 
I don’t slow down for things like speed bumps...no need.
 
I stepped down to a 1500 so I didn’t have to spend huge money getting a good ride out of another 3/4 ton truck.
 
Very happy with the ride quality.
Especially considering I have E Rated Nitto MT tires.
 
 
 
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


You did good getting into the 1500 and appreciate someone that doesn’t settle. I had the DMax, spend huge amount trying to get it smoother, finally after 1 1/2 yrs I ditched it for my 18 SLT 6.2, Z71 CC, loving it! I got $54K as trade in on that 16 LTZ Z71 diesel lol. I’m very happy with my setup too. My neighbor bought same truck as me for his son but with a 5.3. He wants to upgrade the suspension so he’s comfortable in it lol.
pronstar Enthusiast

pronstar

Posted
Posted


You did good getting into the 1500 and appreciate someone that doesn’t settle. I had the DMax, spend huge amount trying to get it smoother, finally after 1 1/2 yrs I ditched it for my 18 SLT 6.2, Z71 CC, loving it! I got $54K as trade in on that 16 LTZ Z71 diesel lol. I’m very happy with my setup too. My neighbor bought same truck as me for his son but with a 5.3. He wants to upgrade the suspension so he’s comfortable in it lol.



My 3/4 ton Ram CTD rode extremely well. And was flat awesome off-road. Carli Suspension knows how to dial those trucks in.

But even with a good guy discount, it was still pretty pricey.
But I’d do it again in a heartbeat if I had a need for a heavier-duty truck

When I was young, I put my money into engine mods.
As I got older, I put all my money into suspension. I won’t settle for a crappy ride.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted



My 3/4 ton Ram CTD rode extremely well. And was flat awesome off-road. Carli Suspension knows how to dial those trucks in.

But even with a good guy discount, it was still pretty pricey.
But I’d do it again in a heartbeat if I had a need for a heavier-duty truck

When I was young, I put my money into engine mods.
As I got older, I put all my money into suspension. I won’t settle for a crappy ride.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Absolutely, you get what you pay for. Have a kickass Christmas!
  • Like 1
kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, pronstar said:

 

Any truck I’ll ever own, will have King’s.

 

They ain’t cheap, so it really depends on your priorities.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I plan on keeping the truck till the wheels fall off & getting another car (hopefully a mid-life crisis type car). Just with the overall cost of the truck to begin with and factoring the cost over years to come vs enjoying they way it drives makes it potentially worth it. On the vehicles and atv's I've had the best suspension I could afford put on and tuned and it always transforms the vehicle into something special and much more enjoyable & safer to ride/drive.

 

The initial cost of kings hurts but, I have not heard one complaint which is rare. People tend to spend way more on lifts , that always seem to trade off handling and suspension.

 

  • Like 2
03msc Enthusiast

03msc

Posted
Posted

OK, OK...so...after reading several pages of this to get 'caught up' since I hadn't been on here in a few weeks, just a couple of questions for clarification purposes...

 

2015 Silverado CC Z71 with stock 18's (and stock Goodyears for now)

 

1) I have a 2.5" Motofab level on mine (spacer on top of the front). That (and an alignment) was all that was done. Is that all that should have been done or is something else needed?  I'm not asking could other stuff be done (I know that answer is yes) but just should there have been or am I good?  

 

2) Looking at new tires soon. Stocks are the 265/65r18, of course.  What is the largest I could go (keeping stock wheels) with no rubbing issues?  275/70? 285/65? 285/75?  Just curious. Been strongly looking at the Toyo Open County A/T IIs but I've also eyed some of the Nittos.  Mostly looking for an A/T type and not a mud tire.  

 

3) When you go up in tire size (well, change it at all, either way) do you just have the dealer recalibrate the speedo or do it some other way (tuner?)? I know I could ignore it but I'd like it correct so I'm just wondering what most do... 

 

TNSmokee Enthusiast

TNSmokee

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm with 03msc, trying to catch up after a week or so. I had to take a double look to make sure I was in the right thread, 2014+ Leveling Kits. There for a minute I thought I was in the Suspension Lift thread. Merry Christmas!!

Edited by TNSmokee
typo
  • Like 1
jimmyboy8301 Senior Enthusiast

jimmyboy8301

Posted
Posted
I'm with 03msc, trying to catch up after a week or so. I had to take a double look to make sure I was in the right thread, 2014+ Leveling Kits. There for a minute I thought I was in the Suspension Lift thread. Merry Christmas!!

LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted

Ok guys. First post ever. I have read about 85% of this topic. I just installed the readylift 2.25 kit 66-3086 (front only - spacers and UCA)

 

I have the OEM rally 22's installed right now with 285 45 R22s.  The edge of the wheel as well as the tire rubs ever so slightly on the passenger side UCA at full lock to the left.  Driver side zero rub. There is about .25" gap between the tire and the UCA at full lock to the right on Driver side. The only thing I can think of is a shitty alignment. When the wheel is straight, it pulls to the left. Unfortunately I had the dealer do it because I just don't have the time right now. They "did" an alignment... I haven't read anywhere of wheel contact on the control arm with OEM wheels. I am taking it back so they correct it. Really frustrating. I purposely did not get different wheels or tires yet because I was afraid of getting the rub. The 1/2" wheel spacer would solve it but in my opinion that is hack. Even if I did the kit myself the dealer would still need to align it.

 

What do you all think? Truck only has 26,000 on it, so its unlikely the lower CA or tie rod ends are worn..

 

3e0a730416cc3f2d2e90f80b56951384.jpg73917ab4ffe88d38fa8079dae1653dfe.jpg

MBSierra17 Enthusiast

MBSierra17

Posted
Posted

My bilstein 5100s at max height rubbed uca as well. The stock offset doesn't seem to like leveled trucks. You've actually gone with wider tires than I had too, although with stock 20's I only had tire rub. 

 

Not sure what impact the readylift uca has on your situation. 

  • Like 1
acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted

Yeah. It is odd though. Have not read of rubbing on the UCA with this kit and oem offset wheels. The tires arenoem as well. I guess I will see what the re-alignment does. Seems the toe needs to be adjusted. I really do not want to buy aftermarket wheels. I don't like the fake bolts and rivets... lol I really want the OEM replica all terrains but those are +27mm. Mine are +24mm AND are a 22 vs a 20

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • Coastie05
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Welcome back!
    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • lowrider
      Range RA007 DFM Module

      By lowrider · Posted

      I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...