Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2 inch RC Level front nothing changed in the rear and 285/60R20 Ridge Grappler

before and after 

 

before.jpg

after1.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
Guys
 
I’ve read every single post in this thread, but I’m simply confused on what I need to do for my truck. I have a bone stock 2018 Sierra 1500 Denali Ultimate 4wd (22” wheels). I’m simply trying to raise the front of my truck up to level with the rear. I plan to keep the same stock wheels and tires. Can someone tell me what I need to get?
 
Thanks for the help. I’m not knowledgeable about vehicles and I need some help deciphering all the info I’ve been reading.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
a42764225ab0a937139cef24caaceacf.jpg
You end up pulling the trigger on a level yet? I'm in the same boat now.
Posted

I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 4WD that I had a locally manufactured 2.5 inch kit installed by a reputable shop which included 2” blocks in the rear. I love the new stance of the truck but now it has a vibration felt in the floorboard of the truck. Nothing through the steering. Any suggestions?

Posted
9 hours ago, Slick66 said:

I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 4WD that I had a locally manufactured 2.5 inch kit installed by a reputable shop which included 2” blocks in the rear. I love the new stance of the truck but now it has a vibration felt in the floorboard of the truck. Nothing through the steering. Any suggestions?

 

What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.

Posted
 
What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.
Are the rear blocks tapered? If they are straight that could be a possible source of the vibration since you are changing the pinion angle. I am on the fence with doing an add a leaf or a +1" tapered block from readylift myself.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
 
What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.
Sorry didn't mean to quote yours.***

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 1/23/2019 at 10:53 AM, bhales said:

2 inch RC Level front nothing changed in the rear and 285/60R20 Ridge Grappler

before and after 

 

before.jpg

after1.jpg

Nice truck (twin).  You say you did the 2" up front only but in your signature you mention the 2.5.  Did you do the full RC 2.5 kit or did you do just the less expensive option and lift the front only? 

Posted

I did go back to the shop and discuss it with the owner. He just blamed it on the change in pinion angle and stated that the new angle should seat itself after about 500 miles. He also stated that he had installed this kit in many other trucks with no issue. 

Posted

I am not sure if the rear blocks are tapered or not. They were used rear blocks from another truck that he had performed a lift on. I think that I am going to remove them and reinstall the stock blocks just to see if the vibration goes away. 

Posted
I am not sure if the rear blocks are tapered or not. They were used rear blocks from another truck that he had performed a lift on. I think that I am going to remove them and reinstall the stock blocks just to see if the vibration goes away. 


You can get tapered blocks from just about anyone. Look to see if if the rear blocks have a slight angle, looking from rear to front your rear blocks should have a slight angle downwards towards the front of your truck. Not having the right blocks will definitely give you vibrations and it’s an easy cheap fix.


Sent from above
Posted

Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 

Posted
Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 
Pinion angles don't "seat themselves". That's just them trying to say they did nothing wrong. The block kit i plan to buy that I would recommend is in the pic. I used ready lift blocks and u bolts on my old Silverado with zero issue.
I would strongly recommend replacing the u bolts if you go with another kit as they have a tendency to stretch when they are torqued. One benefit to the ready lift u bolts is they utilize fine thread pitch, where the oem is coarse. The fine thread pitch has more mechanical advantage when torqued and will not come loose. The oem u bolts are prone to loosening (happened to me when i bought my truck, and numerous others on posts i have read). Good luck. 22de9080d6d8173928309dd27a89d8f1.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 


It’s going to be more of a universal slope but most of all you should know it’s all going to be worked out. As soon as you can, take a side pic of your rear blocks. Where are you located?


Sent from above
Posted
I am located in Northern Florida. 


Look for 4wheelparts, they’ll be available to help you. Call them and ask to speak with the manager, tell him you were told to contact them and get assistance with an issue. Don’t tell them where you had it done, just tell the manager your issues. IM me if you need assistance.


Sent from above

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It really doesn’t matter to me. Making a blanket statement that can be refuted will be. As I pointed out the information is out there. Hey google.
    • My area is one of the most affluent areas in Texas. And yet affordable housing is close by. My family business pays top wages and turnover is very low. You can’t but people in a box if you want to succeed the opportunity is there. 
    • It was previously working, but the continually running compressor threw me for a loop. It wouldn't be out of the realm of possibility that a 26 year old AC system had lost some of its charge and could be exhibiting low charge indicators, so I thought I had it licked. Add some refrigerant to get the low and high pressures in range like on the old 134 systems.   I learned the continuously running compressor is normal, and that I need to know how much is in the system, as well as needing to meter what goes in. I'm only used to working on older R134a and R12 systems that aren't variable displacement. This is how we learn...LOL.   Long story short, I had a 20% off coupon for a new Jiffy Lube that opened nearby. I took it up there yesterday and they did an evac/recharge using their brand new machine from Mahle. Had a good conversation with the guy, they loved the car and I was out of there for $159 plus tax. Digitally measured charge, exactly 1.5lb of refrigerant went in.
    • In most areas of the country, wages have trailed CPI increases over time (let's say, since the 70's) and things like housing, energy, and food have vastly outpaced wages on the whole. Can't ignore that, it's very real.   That isn't to say there aren't ways to live in ways that mitigate some of that, including moving to cheaper areas of the country. In KNut's neck of the world, median housing prices in "nearby" Dallas are more like $500k. If you're raising a family and young in a successful career, your economic opportunities are probably going to be better living closer to Dallas than Cornhole. A 3 hour (6+ round trip) daily commute probably isn't tolerable for most folks. Grumpy mentioned economic migration; but we've seen what happens when people populate and grow an area. It becomes more expensive when economic opportunities come to roost.   One thing different now from back in the 70's is our quality and standard of living has changed. Healthcare is light years better, for example. But it's also much more expensive. And we have communication and information/tech tools that folks in the 70's could never imagine, and they're accessible to people of just about all incomes. Cars are light years safer, faster, and filled with tech advances. Homes are larger, more energy-efficient, and more luxurious on the whole, from starter homes to luxury homes.   Seattle was once affordable. My folks came here in the 70's with a lot of other people from California looking to escape uncontrolled sprawl, smog, and rising prices in the Bay Area. Seattle and the surrounding area has grown considerably; The home they bought for, I think it was $70k or $80k in the late 70's is now worth $1.2M today. The same house.   So while there have been obvious boosts in some areas of quality and standard of living, regarding opportunity, that's a bit more nuanced. It's really not possible for young people to get started in similar situations in areas of the country that have become "HCOL" (high cost of living). There are many more areas than before, which is to say they exclude younger workers or make their lives significantly harder. They have to commute farther and longer to afford to live in the area. They have to take outsized risk, take on more debt, significantly delay family planning. Or, they could move somewhere cheaper, but there's usually a loss of economic opportunity that comes with that. Even for the same job, it may pay a lot less in a LCOL.   What I don't like are Boomers with phones thinking they have all the answers and outright saying that if people stopped paying for their cell phone that they'd be rich. It's as stupid and misguided as people who think they'd only be rich if taxes weren't so high. Sorry guys, Elon proved you wrong on that one, I guess you're just lazy and blaming your own situation for the reason you're not wealthy. Mobile communication is basically an expectation in a modern society and workforce and it's often cheaper than having a copper landline these days, so... What's your point?
    • My 2008 started exhibiting similar symptoms, wasn't 'cold' enough. I went through a pretty extensive diagnostic process for a DIY'er with limited OBD access. System evacuation and recharge included.   Noticed one day the passenger side was cold (I'm never over there so took awhile to notice).   Pulled the drivers side blend door actuator out, disassembled it and cleaned it out. Put it back in and did some kind of reset and it fixed the problem.   Long story short, it wasn't the A/C system at fault, the blend door wasn't moving to full cold position. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...