Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

RobinhoodNC Enthusiast

RobinhoodNC

Posted
Posted

I'm amazed how ridiculous is the stock front suspension downtravel on these trucks. I initially measured for reference exactly 1,5" when I had the 3" front spacers installed with RC forged UCAs, difference from hub to fender. This was without the bumpstop rubber, UCA was resting on the chassis. I thought that the quite poor ride quality was due to that.

 

So I decided to lower the truck to get a bit more downtravel, to 2.25" (readylift). And to my surprise I didn't get that 3/4 inch back in downtravel... No...only a mere 1/5" more ! And the UCA wasn't even touching the bumpstop ! Strut was simply bottomed out...So my 2.4t 20feet long 4x4 truck has hardly 2,4" of downtravel on its front struts. Lol. Even my business car Kia Sportage has more wheel travel...This is maybe explained by the so stiff springs they have. They hardly compress when jacking down. Then  I did put back the rubber bumpstops but these are only slightly in contact with the UCAs. So with a 2 inch level kit on stock UCA I guess that full downtravel is still almost here, that's why ride quality isn't too much impacted. 

 

Know I just need to find longer/smoother springs...but impossible to find the spring rate on mine.

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

ZX14R BUSA KILLER Enthusiast

ZX14R BUSA KILLER

Posted
Posted (edited)

I went with a Rough Country 3" lift leveling kit. 20" KMC DemoDog Wheels with -18 Offset, and with 33" Offroad Tires.

20200304_091621.jpg

20200306_080154_HDR.jpg

Edited by ZX14R BUSA KILLER
Riddick1224 Enthusiast

Riddick1224

Posted
Posted

I’m looking to lower the back of my 2016 to level the truck out. Any suggestions?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mcdavis Enthusiast

mcdavis

Posted
Posted
On 4/13/2020 at 10:36 PM, Riddick1224 said:

I’m looking to lower the back of my 2016 to level the truck out. Any suggestions?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've read that you can just remove the blocks from the leaf springs and it'll drop the rear about 1 1/2". Google it, lots of info on it. Doesn't make it perfectly level, but makes it look much better from what I've seen.

Bensjamming Enthusiast

Bensjamming

Posted
Posted

Why does it matter with the RC 2' spacers if you install the bolts from the top down or if you have the nuts on the top of the strut since neither the head or not come into contact with the spacer itself?

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted (edited)
38 minutes ago, Bensjamming said:

Why does it matter with the RC 2' spacers if you install the bolts from the top down or if you have the nuts on the top of the strut since neither the head or not come into contact with the spacer itself?

The one thing I see with doing the bolts from the top down is that changing out the struts when its needed wont be too easy. From bottom up, it is a much simpler job. However. The bolts used are too long and would cause interference. Some have solved this by cutting down the bolts. But with that being said, I did follow the Rough Country installation directions and installed them from the top down. Hopefully it wont be for awhile but dreading the time when the struts need to be changed out...

Edited by mikeyk101
Bensjamming Enthusiast

Bensjamming

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

The one thing I see with doing the bolts from the top down is that changing out the struts when its needed wont be too easy. From bottom up, it is a much simpler job. However. The bolts used are too long and would cause interference. Some have solved this by cutting down the bolts. But with that being said, I did follow the Rough Country installation directions and installed them from the top down. Hopefully it wont be for awhile but dreading the time when the struts need to be changed out...

I was thinking the same thing. Is the interference with the cv axle then I take it? If so I might just measure the thickness of the stock configuration from bolt head to end of stock bolt and then just add the thickness of the spacer and cut the bolts right away. Just seemed like alot more work then needed when they could be put in the other way.

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

Yes, it is the CV joints that get in the way. If I had a way to properly cut the bolts down, I would have gone that way myself. I guess I could have just run out to the Menards or Home Depot and got the right sized bolts but at the time, part of the front end was in pieces so I had no way to get there, LOL!

Bensjamming Enthusiast

Bensjamming

Posted
Posted

I ended up just taking it all apart and doing it the right way. Start to finish it took me about 45 minutes to do both sides by myself this morning. Was way easier then I thought it was going to be. 

  • Like 1
superdave160 Enthusiast

superdave160

Posted
Posted

I installed the Rough Country spacers on my 2017 Silverado 1500 this weekend.  I could not get the upper ball joint to separate.  I didn't want to use a fork and damage the ball joint or the boot.  The tie rod ends popped right out though.  Since the ball joints would not separate, I couldn't get one of the strut bolts to go in from the top because the axle shaft was in the way.  I put the bolt in from the bottom and noted that there was very little clearance between the end of the bolt and the axle shaft.  I ended up adding some washers to the head of the bolt to increase the clearance.  That gave me enough clearance and still had enough thread penetration for the lock nut to work.  I measured at the front fenders through the center line of the wheels, and they went from 36 1/4 to 38 inches from the ground.

  • Like 1
jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
I installed the Rough Country spacers on my 2017 Silverado 1500 this weekend.  I could not get the upper ball joint to separate.  I didn't want to use a fork and damage the ball joint or the boot.  The tie rod ends popped right out though.  Since the ball joints would not separate, I couldn't get one of the strut bolts to go in from the top because the axle shaft was in the way.  I put the bolt in from the bottom and noted that there was very little clearance between the end of the bolt and the axle shaft.  I ended up adding some washers to the head of the bolt to increase the clearance.  That gave me enough clearance and still had enough thread penetration for the lock nut to work.  I measured at the front fenders through the center line of the wheels, and they went from 36 1/4 to 38 inches from the ground.

If you ever need to get the ball joint separated, just hit the spindle with a hammer until it jiggles itself loose


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
superdave160 Enthusiast

superdave160

Posted
Posted
19 minutes ago, jgraves13 said:


If you ever need to get the ball joint separated, just hit the spindle with a hammer until it jiggles itself loose


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trust me, I hit it with a hammer!

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Pig Sooie 4 Enthusiast

Pig Sooie 4

Posted
Posted

Hey guys! I am new to the board but i bet i have read most of the 496 pages on this topic. I am interested in the 2.5 Rough Country lift kit and was wondering everyones thoughts? I have always had the 2 inch rough country kit on my previous trucks but was interested in this kit due to the rear block. I have 295/55/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on this truck now. I received a quote from the dealership i purchased the truck from and the kit plus the labor was quoted at $1200. I thought that was extremely high given the kit is $450. I was wondering what everyones thoughts were on the kit and also the price i was given. Any help is appreciated!

acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted

Finally bit the bullet and got wheelsand tires. My 2016 Silverado 1500 Rally 2LT with ready lift 2.25 and UCA and Zone add leafs.

I went with 2019 GMC Sierra SLT replica wheels in gloss black and LT275 65 R20 Duratracs. Upgrading from 285 45 22 bridgestone duellers. What a difference. You would never know these are a 10 ply tire. Great ride.

To prevent UCA rub, I fabricated some steering stops and tack welded them to the lower control arm. I made them over size and then ground them down to a perfect fit. Lost 6 degrees of turning radius as indicated on the dash, but i dont care about that. I rarely max out my steering. I did this so I didnt have to run a wheel spacer. Trimmed the corner of my mud flaps too. No rubbing at all982e4efd068e0214a1c489ee4a0979b9.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
acinquegrana Enthusiast

acinquegrana

Posted
Posted

More pics. Pardon the excessive fluid film on the control arms lol. 06140ba1dafd8ae5df655596db4aba49.jpg15722f2b551ea1211f1026e9af359081.jpg6e751727a3466e897d112b640b02e82a.jpg420872c781b78649132dd738a3000e83.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      AFM Experience

      By KARNUT · Posted

      The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Experience

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Blade8971
      Upgrade to a 2026 AT4 with the 3.0L Duramax

      By Blade8971 · Posted

      Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...