Jump to content

Acceleration 6.2 or 5.3. Gears 3.42 or 3.73


Recommended Posts

Posted

Impressive if true.

Yes true the I do not have a clue on the tune because the truck was purchased used from the dealer as I described it
  • Replies 39
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

The 6.2 will run circles around the 5.3. AND is faster than Ford Ecoboost too. As far as fuel mileage, From all the post I've read I am getting around 1mpg less than a 5.3. Well worth the cost IMO. What's not fun about 400+ HP and TQ under your foot?? :driving: and the stock exhaust on these trucks sound great too

 

Love driving my 2010 NHT

I wouldn't put a ton of stock in the fuel economy estimates you see on this site unless you drive on flat highways a lot.

 

They're done with non ethanol gas, and my guess is with an egg between the drivers foot and the pedal.

 

Last year, last 2000miles + with 4.3l/3.42 Xcab- 17.4mpg

This year, last 2000miles+ with 5.3l/3.42 Xcab- 16mpg

 

I'm in my 50s, don't floor it much, drive pretty conservative.

Posted

Its the most reliable app I've used, also my brother had a 2012 with the 6.2 and there is no comparison between the two it would simply haul ass and he beat every person he raced in it

Posted

I wouldn't put a ton of stock in the fuel economy estimates you see on this site unless you drive on flat highways a lot.

 

I don't know how accurate the DIC is, but I had a 25 mile stretch hit 25.4 MPG on a trip from Houston to Galveston. Houston is ~43ft alt, Galveston is ~5ft. So about a half foot per mile downhill - basically flat, the parts of Texas that surround me are pretty nicely flat.

 

I don't think age matters much, but for what its worth I am 32.

 

I have a pretty average driving style, but on long drives I drive more conservatively. On trip to Galveston I stayed between 65-75 mph as traffic allowed (there was a short stint around 10 mph due to construction related traffic). Weather conditions were excellent for MPG, but speed was high, and I had a second person in the car, so weight was not great (but the fiancee is pretty light).

 

But to really do it right, you need optimal conditions as well. 80's (hotter and you have to use the AC), dry, the patience to go around 55, a very steady foot and do NOT use cruise control (it over compensates going uphill, and since it doesn't know when the hill ends, it cannot take advantage of moment going downhill, it has to brake and wast the fuel it pumped in going up), and a lack of care for your paint (willingness to tailgate, esp 18-wheelers). The MPG I hit made me curious to try a real hyper-mile test in the truck and see what it can do when really babied, esp given I was going faster than optimal, and using cruise most of the drive, but my commute does not support such a test, and I don't care about the MPG enough to spend time trying... I just don't drive enough for it to really matter to me.

 

My credentials on this: My last car was a Diesel Golf with a manual, which got pretty crazy good MPGs if you drove it right. I drove about 80 miles a day when I bought the golf, and that dropped to about 50 the final year the MPG estimates the EPA are 30/42/34. I drove over just 44K miles in the golf, my lifetime fuel economy averaged a combined 47 MPG (hand calculated) with a 51.4 mpg best tank (remember in a car that gets 42 hwy per the EPA). I did not do a great job the last year + tracking on fuelly, but I did hand calculate all tanks, and almost always stayed between 45 and 49 mpg, which is why fuelly says 48, but I say 47 lifetime.

 

http://www.fuelly.com/driver/bfalke1

 

My driving style changed significantly with my job change (only 4 miles to work each way, and no freeways), as the short commute made me care less about economy, so I became a more aggressive driver (now about average, compared to extremely conservative in the Golf), and it has changed even more with the truck, as it is faster and more fun to drive (I wish it had a manual though, that would be awesome). My last tank in the Golf went all the way down to 28.3 MPG, While in the truck so far, I tend to be staying around 13.5-14 MPG over the last 25 per DIC, excepting that trip to Galveston.

 

I think that should at least give you a good idea of low and high you may hit on MPG. Keep in mind, my truck is a 6.2 4x4, but is not a max tow and my long drives are flat.

Posted

I find mine will get better mileage when using the cruise. I think it does a better job of 'feathering' the throttle during light load / low speed situations.

 

Long steady trips are always going to give better mileage. Higher speeds are worse. (try setting the cruise at about 35 and see what the instantaneous says)

 

Most areas I usually travel are fairly flat. Best 25 is at 24.8mpg. Average 25 has been over 23 quite a few times. Over 20-21 frequently. Lifetime was running 19 until the cold in Feb.

 

It will be interesting to see what happens to the lifetime number now that the 0F weather is gone.

Posted

So far with 1600 miles, my best has been 22, and average on my last tank was 19.3 according to the truck. I am keeping up with the mpg on my own, my last tank came out at 18.2, So it seams the truck over estimated by about 1mpg so far.

Posted

My lifetime stays between 15.9/16, but that's OK with me. I don't drive a truck hoping for high mpg.

 

What I'm most interested in seeing is difference in transmission temperatures this summer towing now that I have an external cooler.

 

I've never had a truck without one, and was very surprised the 2014 4.3l LT Z71 I bought last year did not have one. (and by some of the transmission oil temperatures I saw towing consequently)

 

The motor was easily able to tow my 2500lb boat, but the transmission oil temp would get higher than I expected. (and the dealer I bought it from said there was no OEM part, and they warned me against an aftermarket part)

 

The MSRP on that truck was over $42K, transmission oil coolers cost $40 retail. You'd think that part might be able to make the design, when theoretically pickup trucks are built with towing/hauling in mind. That truck had a 6700lb tow capacity and the motor had the power to pull more than the 2500lbs I pull.

Posted

You know what I think may be the fastest "stock" truck in GMC lineup if we allow a tune as the only mod? A 2014 ext cab, short bed, max tow 5.3, 3.73 rear end w/ the 6 speed auto and 17" wheels, guzzling E85 and tuned for it...

 

would be terrible on mpg's tho hahaha

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree, simplicity and reliability matter more as vehicles get more complicated. A V8 work truck option with fewer electronic features and a stronger warranty would definitely appeal to a lot of buyers who use their trucks for real work. Customizing it with trusted outfitters is often the best way to get exactly what you need.webcrimsNY
    • I’ve heard similar complaints from newer vehicles where the factory “premium” systems don’t always live up to expectations. A good installer should be able to improve the sound without turning it into a bass-heavy setup. I’d look into upgrading the front speakers, adding a quality DSP amplifier, and possibly improving sound deadening first—those changes usually make a much bigger difference than just adding a subwoofer. Hopefully someone local can recommend a reputable installer in the Las Vegas/St. George area.
    • Do you remember that Harley Davidson was more successful (solvent) when it produced about 60% of the market demand (by design) and forced wait times of up to three years? Even when your turn came around it was, "Take what we are giving you or move to the back of the line and start over". HUGE markup's were 'normalized' and dealer killed. 40% markup and no floor plan? What's not to love? Greed will kill them yet. They have surplus production and customer base is tanking. And still they think nosebleed pricing will work.  
    • The engine was done as part of the 6.2 recall?   You'd have to see if your VIN also has the 6.2 engine special coverage on it.  Coverage number is N252494003.  If you have this, your engine is covered under this and NOT the GM replacement part engine warranty which is 3yr/100k from the date of install.  The 3yr/100k mi warranty is in effect for non warranty purchases.     This is not any different if it was replaced under warranty without a recall or special coverage.  So if you had a 5.3 and it popped at 3 years in at 50,000mi during the 5yr/60k powertrain, the replacement engine would not get the 3yr/100k, and instead gets the remainder of the 5yr/60k as coverage.     So N252494003 gives 10 years or 150,000mi of coverage, which ever comes first, starting at the vehicle in service date.  So if your in service date is 01/01/2022, N252494003 gives you special coverage of the engine until 01/01/2032 or 150,000mi, whichever comes first.  So if your start date was 01/01/2022, you'd have left 5 years and 4 months (lets round to august 1st), or 62,000mi left of coverage.   So you need to know your in service date to know how much coverage is left.  
    • Okiee dokie there bud, way to take things to the extreme.   I guess you missed the whole point and take things way to serious. I installed different EV6 style injectors that just so happen to be larger in my car running the same LQ4 engine and with a better spray pattern than the stock style injectors and I noticed no difference in the idle quality. Kinda was my round about way of saying that even if you put the same size but better style injectors in your truck, you will likely see the same thing.    I'm sure you're great to have conversations with in person if that's how you act through a keyboard. One little things sets you off and now I guess my dick is all up in your face.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...