Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 hours ago, boettcher40 said:

Had my passenger side rip late last year. Easiest and quickest option IMO... replace it. Took me about an hour, worst part is getting the dang thing out! Ended up having to remove the bottom 2 strut bolts, and sway bar end link which gives you some additional room with the lower control arm dropped.

Did you end up needing to separate the the UCA from the spindle when you did yours?

 

also found a cv axle from my local parts place. Ended up getting it for $172 CAD ( regular price was $280) they gave me the military discount. 

Posted

Replaced the left rear window regulator on Monday (Photo #1), the window "fell" on Sunday afternoon, and it's raining today (started around 1:30am).  Photo #2 was taken around 8:30am, the lightning strike struck a motor home about 2 miles away, caught fire (photo #3).

 

IMG_3237.thumb.jpg.da57f4ebfe53b09ffac53ed7c44a5462.jpg

 

IMG_3262.thumb.jpg.67c89db5b218e6ebde93ec32aeeadf4f.jpg

 

IMG_3249.thumb.jpg.29226c49c9bc90486a4fdcc97613f5d0.jpg

 

 

  • Like 3
Posted
On 6/21/2022 at 3:23 PM, maillet282 said:

Did you end up needing to separate the the UCA from the spindle when you did yours?

 

also found a cv axle from my local parts place. Ended up getting it for $172 CAD ( regular price was $280) they gave me the military discount. 

I did not separate the control arm, taking the lower shock bolts and sway bar end link out gave enough clearance

Posted

Sunday afternoon consisted of an oil change, tire rotation, and dropped the trans pan to change fluid/filter. Picture is before I spilt the entire clear bin of ATF on my floor.... only to realize I was out of floor dry...  🙃 

IMG_0052.thumb.jpg.df15f4daa73f23d0e9fc9d737475b019.jpg

 

IMG_0054.thumb.jpg.2a78568e496ea9aaa903d194c53c62f3.jpg

 

IMG_0056.thumb.jpg.c1058940e21ed45a58b4106f5a0c8c80.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

B5F185E3-CE9F-40F2-9963-68FBDEEE9DED.jpeg
 

Carbon Creation Viper hood… it’s not bad bad but I expected better quality. There’s a bunch of tiny white speckles all over the hood. Looks to be mixed in the clear coat… 

Edited by CajunFries
  • Like 3
Posted

Picked up a wireless Android Auto adapter(Moto MA1). Giving it a try, so far so good. Connects within a couple secs. 

 

I have the magnetic charging cable for my phone, so wasn't a real hassle to just connect it wired. But wanted to try the wireless option. Unless I'm going on a long trip, not plugging it in is nice. 20220709_093918.thumb.jpg.e8837a1b4991c63a1667a00c6e60433c.jpg20220709_094023.thumb.jpg.5c46e7c46fea498137839844a9a3b806.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Finally finished putting the engine back together. Will be shoving it back into the truck this weekend. 
 

GPI drop-in pistons / rods combo

L86 crank

ARP main and head studs 

BTR .660 dual springs

CHE trunnions

Cam Motion custom LT turbo cam

AFP engine mounts

6FD7FCE9-754C-4F3B-90E5-ECEADC3A030C.jpeg

94D4BA44-9B5B-42D8-83B6-E072BC0115AF.jpeg

  • Like 7
Posted (edited)

Went on a bunch of trails in Northern Michigan! My favorite picture was this one I took at Silver Creek parked next to this old-school Subaru Outback:


IMG_4078.thumb.jpg.c8d28de478a4e0f8554e1c1f18bc80bc.jpg

Edited by OffTheAir
Posted

Did a little touch up work on some of the paint chips.  I will be using the Chipex kit this time around to compare it to the Langka kit.  The Langka kit paint did not match as well as the Duplicolor pens did.

 

PXL_20220717_151646754.thumb.jpg.9b1ea080e6efa6342fbd764d946d615a.jpg

Posted

Paid off my truck last month only to have the transmission give me problems last week at 75k miles, go figure. End result, TC was going out and the shavings were getting sucked into the trans oil pump causing that to fail also. Replaced the TC with a Precision brand and also the trans oil pump, had everything else cleaned and resurfaced real good and $4500 later, truck drives like new again. On a side note, I had no idea Geico offered mechanical breakdown coverage which covers transmissions so... I only had to pay $250 and they covered the rest. :)

  • Like 4
Posted

Replaced my Accelerator Pedal Position sensor this past weekend. Truck showed the Decreased engine power message and felt like I let off the pedal, which I didn't, while I was on the freeway. I managed to exit safely and pull into a parking lot where I started googling the issue. :) Found where it said to turn off the truck and let it sit for about 30 seconds then turn back on and it should clear the message, it did and I was able to drive to local shop. They put the reader on it and it showed an error code of P2122. They cleared it but after driving a while it came back on so I bought a new one and replaced it, reset the code with my reader and it hasn't came back on yet. It only set me back $120 at AZ for the part and it has lifetime warranty. 

 

Next up, replace the spark plugs and wires... 

  • Like 2
Posted
On 7/24/2022 at 8:01 PM, CajunFries said:

finally got everything button up and hit the dyno on Thursday. 
 


VIDEO below. 

Final dyno run

Wow man, that's impressive! Music to my ears, and wicked power numbers. Great job

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...