Jump to content

Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

tkotx Enthusiast

tkotx

Posted
Posted
On 11/4/2019 at 3:13 PM, delaware gmc said:

 

I went with the highest level on my truck and went with the Toyo Open Country A/T2’s. 285/60/R20..... love the set up there is slight rubbing at full tilt when turning or reversing

  • Replies 2.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

Posted Images

calane29 Enthusiast

calane29

Posted
Posted
Highest level! 1.8" 


Awesome! I’m getting mine out on Wednesday and didn’t know if I should go highest or the 3rd notch, I appreciate it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Berk483 New Member

Berk483

Posted
Posted

Had Bilstein 5100's installed on the top notch then added some BFG TA ko2 in 285/70R17 Load C on my stock rims.

 

Really like the set-up so far. There may be a the slightest rub at full lock in reverse on an angle but for 99.9% of the time there is no issue.

Truck1.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
tylerc2009 New Member

tylerc2009

Posted
Posted

Having the 5100’s installed on Monday. Now trying to figure out tire size. 
 

Would like to run 285/60/20 but it sounds like they’ll rub. Anybody running 285/55/20? Do they rub?

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

I would never buy ranchos or even buy a new truck upgraded with them, think z71 has em….ill do all suspension myself and just want interior options from manfctr….fabtech and rancho never again....seems a lot of peeps get spacer leveling only to lift it later ….just do it one time the right way

grav898 Enthusiast

grav898

Posted
Posted

Put a set of 5100's on the rear a couple of nights ago and i'm wondering if it's a bad idea to remove the leaf blocks to lower it the 1.25". Has anyone ever done this? Will it damage the shock?

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 12/3/2019 at 7:55 PM, Dunn said:

I would never buy ranchos or even buy a new truck upgraded with them, think z71 has em….ill do all suspension myself and just want interior options from manfctr….fabtech and rancho never again....seems a lot of peeps get spacer leveling only to lift it later ….just do it one time the right way

Ok, was this supposed to be some type of PSA post or what was the point? Can't quit comprehend everything you wrote as it is in a text message format... 

 

Long Beach, do you run negative offset wheels by chance? Because that is no better than a spacer lift. 

 

Tyler

Edited by amxguy1970
  • 1 month later...
Jorge L Enthusiast

Jorge L

Posted
Posted

im new to the whoel truck scene and im waitning to replace my setup with these 5100 all the way around. i was just wondering if anyone is running an aftermarket set of springs to go along with the 5100. id really to get me a pair of springs as well. so i can have something similar to the eibach pro truck lift kit.

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Jorge L said:

im new to the whoel truck scene and im waitning to replace my setup with these 5100 all the way around. i was just wondering if anyone is running an aftermarket set of springs to go along with the 5100. id really to get me a pair of springs as well. so i can have something similar to the eibach pro truck lift kit.

Why not just get the 6112s up front if you want springs too. I have the 6112s up front with 5160s in the rear on my '15 and it's been a great upgrade. I don't think I could be happier.

  • Like 1
Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted
im new to the whoel truck scene and im waitning to replace my setup with these 5100 all the way around. i was just wondering if anyone is running an aftermarket set of springs to go along with the 5100. id really to get me a pair of springs as well. so i can have something similar to the eibach pro truck lift kit.
Why not just get the 6112s up front if you want springs too. I have the 6112s up front with 5160s in the rear on my '15 and it's been a great upgrade. I don't think I could be happier.
This^^^ they have better reviews.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Jorge L Enthusiast

Jorge L

Posted
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Red_5 said:

Why not just get the 6112s up front if you want springs too. I have the 6112s up front with 5160s in the rear on my '15 and it's been a great upgrade. I don't think I could be happier.

i didnt even know these were a thing lol, however they are out of my price range as im just wanting to do a small level to my truck while i save up for a decent lift kit. so initially i was set on the bilstein 5100s all around. well then i came across the eibach pro truck lift kit and it peeked my interest due to the beefy springs. so now im torn wether i should got with the eibach kit or the bilsteins. so i figured id ask if there was a spring people were using with these 5100s apart from the oem one. something that could sill save me a few bucks. since the 5100s all around come out to 334 and the pro truck kit is 586.

Edited by Jorge L
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

think eibachs are progressive valved and bilsteins are digressive....different way of valving

 

digressive starts out firm then gets softer where progressive starts out softer and ramps up at end, just different approaches and everyone feels things differently, so just depends on what type you are

 

sucks cuz eibach had sale lil ways back and was $389 for all 4 corners, am sure it will come back at some point

  • Like 1
Mozzer Enthusiast

Mozzer

Posted
Posted
think eibachs are progressive valved and bilsteins are digressive....different way of valving
 
digressive starts out firm then gets softer where progressive starts out softer and ramps up at end, just different approaches and everyone feels things differently, so just depends on what type you are
 
sucks cuz eibach had sale lil ways back and was $389 for all 4 corners, am sure it will come back at some point
That seems odd, if a shock got softer as it compressed more wouldn't that be more likely to bottom out on big bumps & ride hard over minimal bumps in the road?

2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • rdonarski
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By rdonarski · Posted

      This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...