Jump to content

Chevrolet to offer blacked out Silverado work truck from the factory

Zane

By Zane
in Article & Review Archive (Pre-2019)

Recommended Posts

darkfox1 Senior Enthusiast

darkfox1

Posted
Posted

I really do wonder what the angle is with this. It looks sharp, I'm not gonna lie, but why the w/t?

 

I'm wondering if this is something like they did with the old s-10 extreme. Enticing younger buyers into the market.

 

But.. do younger buyers really flock to $30k full size trucks? Or at least.. in so far as.. can be tempted to buy one because of black stock rims? I would think truck people are truck people and would be attracted regardless. I could be wrong though.

 

I mean as someone who bought an LT and have been spending every spare dime I have trying to make it look like an LTz I should be one to know that looks are important to a truck owner. :lol:

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

I really do wonder what the angle is with this. It looks sharp, I'm not gonna lie, but why the w/t?

 

I'm wondering if this is something like they did with the old s-10 extreme. Enticing younger buyers into the market.

 

But.. do younger buyers really flock to $30k full size trucks? Or at least.. in so far as.. can be tempted to buy one because of black stock rims? I would think truck people are truck people and would be attracted regardless. I could be wrong though.

 

I mean as someone who bought an LT and have been spending every spare dime I have trying to make it look like an LTz I should be one to know that looks are important to a truck owner. [emoji38]

In the midst of buying my $20,000 4 year old truck, about to sign papers i almost backed out and bought a $30,000 08 RST regular cab. I was 18 at the time. The RST has far less options, but look 10x better. Sometimes the look of the truck is enough to pull some people towards that particular vehicle. I did come to my senses and bought the truck i have now.
USMC619 New Member

USMC619

Posted
Posted

$43k in the Dbl Cab. Not the Z71 though.

Black out version? It's called PlastiDip!!

Alliance00 Enthusiast

Alliance00

Posted
Posted

You guys are missing the point. W/T trim has always been so much more reasonable then the upper trim levels. What makes a Work Truck look cheap??? The mismatched bumpers and grill, steel wheels, no window tint, no body side moldings etc. The W/T is only offered in a few colors, like red, silver, and white (might be missing a few). So, to get a sharp truck on the cheep... You buy a work Truck, put some wheels on it, tint the windows, and pull the bumpers and grill and paint them body color. Now GM is doing it for you for ~$1,500.... That’s an awesome deal! Now the whole black only is because they are using the current W/T inventory of back painted bumpers and grills.

randylindae Enthusiast

randylindae

Posted
Posted

 

I completely agree. GM needs to stop coming up with a special addition for every color. I want to see something unique, or at least up to par with the rest.

Speeking of "color", maybe the could come back with some "Two Tone" colors for an option on all the Silverados. I think I would like to see that.

GPGuy Senior Enthusiast

GPGuy

Posted
Posted

It does look sharp....just wishing it would be offered on all trim levels....

Krausmotorsports Enthusiast

Krausmotorsports

Posted
Posted

With the prices of new, the best bang for the buck is to buy a 2 or 3 year old mint condition truck, do your own mods, and you'll have a raptor killer for half the price, and it will still be so close to new, you won't notice the difference.

this is why i bought my 2013 ( still bought new but dug deep to get me the 6.2) when its paid off ill go nutz!

  • 2 weeks later...
GPGuy Senior Enthusiast

GPGuy

Posted
Posted

So apparently they've hit the lots...not bad...just still wish they offered it on an upper trim level.

JeremyW426 Enthusiast

JeremyW426

Posted
Posted

Hey all, first time posting. I have a 2015 Double cab WT on order and was looking at it before this package came out (ordered as soon as I saw this package). I was looking at the WT model in black basically because this package is what I wanted to do to the truck anyways. I like the flat black bumpers and the fact it still have the manual floor mounted 4WD shift. I love the look of the truck and can't wait for it to get to the dealership. I Basically started with a $34K (Canadian) truck, added $6800 in options and it has almost as much as an LT model has (less the 8" screen and remote start but plan on putting in a python kit.) I was looking at the higher models and dressing them up from there but the price was simply too much. This package is perfect for my price range and I really think it looks great.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...