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What wires to tap line output converter into to add amp?

CaptainMcFunk
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CaptainMcFunk Enthusiast

CaptainMcFunk

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey all,

 

I recently purchased a couple shallow mount subs, a subthump box, and an amp/wiring kit for my 2015 GMC Sierra SLE. I also purchased this line output converter to get the signal to the amp from the stock wiring. I searched for "line output converter" and literally nothing came up on the forum, so i'm curious if anyone knows the easiest place to tap into to get the subwoofer signal to the amp? I'd greatly appreciate any help!

 

My truck is a 2015 GMC Sierra SLE, does NOT have the Bose factory system.

 

PAC LP7-2: http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1188

 

 

Gear i'm adding:

 

2x Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-12

1x Power Acoustik EG1-2500D -- wired to 2 ohms, about 800w RMS total

subthump dual 12" box w/ amp rack space

 

 

Thanks!

 

Captain

Edited by CaptainMcFunk
CaptainMcFunk Enthusiast

CaptainMcFunk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Anyone have any ideas on this? I scanned a thread yesterday for a long time and came up with one person that stated these were the wires to tap into, but no one said anything else -- Anyone have a picture of the harness i'm looking for to tap into?

 

 

For non-Bose, you can tap the rear speaker wires in the B Pillar before they go thru the harness to the rear doors. They are twisted pairs.

Left Rear Speaker (+) green // (-) green/black
Right Rear Speaker (+) white // (-) blue/black

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CaptainMcFunk Enthusiast

CaptainMcFunk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If you have the bose upgrade you tap into the amp behind the rear seat.

I appreciate the response, but I included it in the original request that I dont have the Bose system, as that seems to make a huge difference in where you tap in. As i've been going along today preparing for this install, here is other info i've gathered:

 

ITEM WIRE COLOR LOCATION

 

Left Front Speaker (+/-) // blue - brown/blue // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 1 - 9

Right Front Speaker (+/-) // yellow - yellow/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 2 - 10

Left Rear Speaker (+/-) // green - green/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 3 - 11

Right Rear Speaker (+/-) // white - blue/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 4 - 12

 

I was hoping to just tap in at one of the plugs in or near the BCM, which may be possible, I just don't know. A tip that I got is to pull the B-Pillar panel (between front & rear doors), pull back or cut the tape on the wires going into the rear door to look for the speaker wires. It should be the ONLY TWISTED PAIR in the bundle. I may go this route since I don't know if there is an amp after the green 16 pin plug at the radio.

 

 

 

 

Forgot to mention which power source I used for the amp's remote on....

 

If you look under the driver's side dash between the brake pedal and parking brake, you'll see the fuse/relay box (it's about 6" x 10" and has a smooth black plastic cover, just like on the GMT-900's). Pry the clasps on each side to remove. On my SLT there are three main banks, left to right, with the first being unoccupied (see attached pic). The slots within first bank are labeled 1-20, though only 11 actually have male connectors. I used my tester to determine the following: #'s 7 & 17 are constant 12v power [always on], #'s 10 & 11 are grounds, and #8 is the RAP [retained accessory power] ignition signal wire (again, see attached pic)

 

For newbies, RAP powers on with the key rotated to the first position and remains on until the ignition is turned completely off AND the driver's door is opened, just like the factory radio.

  • Like 1
Donolie Enthusiast

Donolie

Posted
Posted (edited)

Have you tried searching LOC? There is a youtube video of a guy who put it behind the radio inside the dash. You should use the font speakers since since the rears are quieter, the only down side is the front left speaker is the one that makes your blinker sound and door ding. I've yet to install an amp/subs but thats the information I found so far.

Edited by Donolie
  • 1 month later...
iamdanieltuck Enthusiast

iamdanieltuck

Posted
Posted

I appreciate the response, but I included it in the original request that I dont have the Bose system, as that seems to make a huge difference in where you tap in. As i've been going along today preparing for this install, here is other info i've gathered:

 

ITEM WIRE COLOR LOCATION

 

Left Front Speaker (+/-) // blue - brown/blue // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 1 - 9

Right Front Speaker (+/-) // yellow - yellow/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 2 - 10

Left Rear Speaker (+/-) // green - green/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 3 - 11

Right Rear Speaker (+/-) // white - blue/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 4 - 12

 

I was hoping to just tap in at one of the plugs in or near the BCM, which may be possible, I just don't know. A tip that I got is to pull the B-Pillar panel (between front & rear doors), pull back or cut the tape on the wires going into the rear door to look for the speaker wires. It should be the ONLY TWISTED PAIR in the bundle. I may go this route since I don't know if there is an amp after the green 16 pin plug at the radio.

 

 

 

 

Forgot to mention which power source I used for the amp's remote on....

 

If you look under the driver's side dash between the brake pedal and parking brake, you'll see the fuse/relay box (it's about 6" x 10" and has a smooth black plastic cover, just like on the GMT-900's). Pry the clasps on each side to remove. On my SLT there are three main banks, left to right, with the first being unoccupied (see attached pic). The slots within first bank are labeled 1-20, though only 11 actually have male connectors. I used my tester to determine the following: #'s 7 & 17 are constant 12v power [always on], #'s 10 & 11 are grounds, and #8 is the RAP [retained accessory power] ignition signal wire (again, see attached pic)

 

For newbies, RAP powers on with the key rotated to the first position and remains on until the ignition is turned completely off AND the driver's door is opened, just like the factory radio.

 

If you'd like to clean up and have full amperage for other mods I built oem supplier (Delphi) harnesses to tap that x7 port.

 

72476364668abed765834304c96db6ce.jpg

$45 plus shipping. GM parts are $68 and not pinned

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To be clear, I but from who gm buys. I meant if you purchase through gm, that would be the price and the trim would be blue. It's still a Delphi connector

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 years later...
  • 3 months later...
ChevyChiver New Member

ChevyChiver

Posted
Posted

So I'm doing this as well and I find the twisted green and green black wires on the drivers side but no white blue/black wires . Would they be on the passenger side ?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  • 2 months later...
peterlawl84 Enthusiast

peterlawl84

Posted
Posted

I just did the LLJ harness and it was easy install, took a couple of weeks to get the harness as they were behind, but communicated well. I plan on getting another adapter for the other truck.

  • 1 year later...
thethorninmyside Enthusiast

thethorninmyside

Posted
Posted
On 10/20/2016 at 5:22 PM, CaptainMcFunk said:

f you look under the driver's side dash between the brake pedal and parking brake, you'll see the fuse/relay box (it's about 6" x 10" and has a smooth black plastic cover, just like on the GMT-900's). Pry the clasps on each side to remove. On my SLT there are three main banks, left to right, with the first being unoccupied (see attached pic). The slots within first bank are labeled 1-20, though only 11 actually have male connectors. I used my tester to determine the following: #'s 7 & 17 are constant 12v power [always on], #'s 10 & 11 are grounds, and #8 is the RAP [retained accessory power] ignition signal wire (again, see attached pic)

 

For newbies, RAP powers on with the key rotated to the first position and remains on until the ignition is turned completely off AND the driver's door is opened, just like the factory radio.

 

  • 5 months later...
Inf4mous13 New Member

Inf4mous13

Posted
Posted
On 10/20/2016 at 8:50 AM, CaptainMcFunk said:

Anyone have any ideas on this? I scanned a thread yesterday for a long time and came up with one person that stated these were the wires to tap into, but no one said anything else -- Anyone have a picture of the harness i'm looking for to tap into?

 

 

For non-Bose, you can tap the rear speaker wires in the B Pillar before they go thru the harness to the rear doors. They are twisted pairs.

Left Rear Speaker (+) green // (-) green/black
Right Rear Speaker (+) white // (-) blue/black

Do you know if it's the same on 2017 Silverado LS double cab No Bose speakers??

  • 2 years later...
JeremyGray New Member

JeremyGray

Posted
Posted
On 10/20/2016 at 2:40 PM, 3vol said:

If you have the bose upgrade you tap into the amp behind the rear seat.

Why can't you tap into the speaker wires in the B pillar with the bose. I have a line converter that says it can handle a amplified signal up to 400 watts. 

Ritcheyrich New Member

Ritcheyrich

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, JeremyGray said:

Why can't you tap into the speaker wires in the B pillar with the bose. I have a line converter that says it can handle a amplified signal up to 400 watts. 

Idk but I've been wondering the same thing about my 2013 ltz with Bose and after many unsuccessful searches I think I'm just gonna try it and see. I've got the Kenwood amp and subs tapped into the factory sub wires at the amp and it sounds alright and gets loud but leaves something to be desired I guess. I had these same subs and amp installed in an old Dakota with a basic alpine half din CD player with an old iPod cord plugged in the back and it sounded amazing. 

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