Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm running the fox 2.5's with cognito UCA on stock 20's now with 275/65/20's and it looks awesome. Definitely recommend the 65's over the 60's hands down.

  • Like 1
Posted

Good to know. Can you send pictures of your truck? Do you know if they cut the extension stops on your frame or if that doesn't apply when getting new UCA?

 

 

Thanks

Also are you running your shocks at 3"?

Posted

Yes, I've been meaning to post some i just haven't gotten around to getting some good ones.

 

No, we did not cut the bump stops but i haven't really gotten it off road yet so i may cut them when hunting season comes around and i really get to try these things out.

Posted

I would love to see some pictures. Don't have to be good ones just want to see how the truck sits and the tires. Would you recommend cutting the bump stops out while I have them installed? Any negative effects of this?

 

Thanks for the help

Posted

I would love to see some pictures. Don't have to be good ones just want to see how the truck sits and the tires. Would you recommend cutting the bump stops out while I have them installed? Any negative effects of this?

 

Thanks for the help

Pros are increased wheel travel and a more comfortable ride over rough terrain.

 

Cons are overtraveling at full droop which can damage coilovers and shocks which aren't designed to suffer that abuse regularly, and potentially popping a cv joint.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

There's some confusion that arises every time this issue of cutting the bump stops comes up.

 

What the Cognito and maybe other UCA instructions say is to cut the service perch from underneath where the UCA attaches to the frame. This is not a bump stop. If you don't cut it out and put in coilovers with a bit longer travel than stock, it is my understanding that your UCA will contact that during travel instead of your coilovers being your limiting factor.

 

It's the piece shown here underneath the left branch and bolt of the UCA.

c9ba4e4fbc0d6caa2e30a1942613e3a1.jpg

 

This is after the stock UCA is removed.

7b2a51a6cc88b7971e1a380788bc1182.jpg

 

And here is the cut job in progress. I cut it out with a reciprocating saw, then smoothed off the edges with a grinder.

9a9b87d1e8361079e289e9189e8ad164.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by corncob
  • Like 1
Posted

Great information Corncob. Thanks for the pictures. I am thinking I will probably lean towards cutting it. How hard do you have to be on them for something to go wrong if they are cut?

 

Thanks for all the help guys!

Posted (edited)

Great information Corncob. Thanks for the pictures. I am thinking I will probably lean towards cutting it. How hard do you have to be on them for something to go wrong if they are cut?

 

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

This guy has been the only one who actually has done it I believe on the forums. But honestly his truck looked like it was only driven in extreme off-roading conditions.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/188300-psa-cognito-ucas-fox-20-coilovers-over-travel/

 

If you're just going to be driving the backwoods to a hunting lease or something, you'll definitely be just fine cutting the perch.

Edited by ChevyRoofer
Posted

I went very slowly on this side (you can see I left the tabs on the left and right) because I was worried about cutting into the actual frame bucket. I ground off most of them after that picture.

 

The other side, I put the blade right between those tabs and the frame bucket and cut.

 

If you are concerned about cutting too much off, cut a bit, then put the UCA in there and move it down. You won't have anything rubbing on that spot (it bolts in up above) so you really just need to make sure the arm clears when it goes down. If it doesn't clear or is too close for you, cut/grind a little more. I don't think you probably need to cut the whole width of it out to clear.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

 

This guy has been the only one who actually has done it I believe on the forums. But honestly his truck looked like it was only driven in extreme off-roading conditions.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/188300-psa-cognito-ucas-fox-20-coilovers-over-travel/

 

If you're just going to be driving the backwoods to a hunting lease or something, you'll definitely be just fine cutting the perch.

That thread is a completely different issue - the UCA contacting the frame tower/bucket/column above the UCA/frame bolt connection on extreme uptravel. It has nothing to do with cutting the service perch.

 

On the issue in that linked thread, it started with a guy using fox 2.0's. spurshot did confirm that his had the same issue (but maybe not as severe) with his Kings. I haven't seen the problem show up at all on mine, even after traveling off-road. If it does, it's a very minor fix of putting some rubber on the frame column/tower, or cutting a very small bit of it away to fix it - because of this and the very limited reports of it, I haven't worried about it at all. And I haven't seen it manifest itself yet, despite a good amount of use.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I am currently running Boss Coilovers at 2.5" with stock 20s on 295/55R20s. Didn't change out the UCAs. No rubbing. The ride is absolutely night and day from the factory ride.

 

Boss Coilovers are from Halo Lifts. They have been around for years with products for Ford trucks. They recently brought on their line of GM products. They tested for a year or so on their shop truck. With their ultimate kit they are running 35's on stock 20s. I will provide a link to their website and a link to their ultimate kit. They also have been working Total Chaos UCAs which I will also provide a link too.

 

Boss Coilovers website: http://www.f150lifts.com/HaloLifts_bymfg_15-0-1.html

 

Ultimate Kit direct link: http://www.f150lifts.com/2007-UP-GM-SilveradoSierra-1500-Boss-Ultimate-Kit_p_220.html

 

Total Chaos UCAs link: http://www.f150lifts.com/Total-Chaos-Upper-Control-Arms-for-the-GM-1500-2014-2wd-4wd_p_237.html

 

 

 

I spent a lot of time researching like you I am sure. I saw the above thread and called Alex directly. He explained the entire company background to me and the entire testing process of the Boss Coilovers on their shop truck. I was sold once I spoke with him for nearly an hour. I am glad I made the choice of Boss Coilovers and I don't think you will be disappointed either.

 

 

 

I've been following that thread and just posted asking the rep for some details on fitting the tires. Just saying "it fits 35's" only tells you 25% of what you need to know. It's very misleading, IMO, whether intentional or not. It's as helpful as finding a single YouTube video with a guy running 35's, but no way to tell what tire/offset/trimming he did. And that all matters HUGELY when you're trying to squeeze the biggest tire possible.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by txab
Posted

I've been following that thread and just posted asking the rep for some details on fitting the tires. Just saying "it fits 35's" only tells you 25% of what you need to know. It's very misleading, IMO, whether intentional or not. It's as helpful as finding a single YouTube video with a guy running 35's, but no way to tell what tire/offset/trimming he did. And that all matters HUGELY when you're trying to squeeze the biggest tire possible.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can't speak for running 35's nor can I speak for Alex at what all they did on the shop truck. I have never meet Alex in person or seen their shop truck. I am however, sure that if you call him up he will go into depth with you in regards to their setup. He is a very knowledgeable guy.

Posted

I'm sure he would. But I'm not interested in just finding out the knowledge. I'm interested in him clarifying their claims so people don't spend money on their system and then buy 35's with the assumption they will fit, and then be disappointed/mad/remorseful/mislead. Which is why I posted that request for info in that thread.

 

I'm not implying he's trying to deceive. I just think clarity benefits everyone involved.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Yes, I've been meaning to post some i just haven't gotten around to getting some good ones.

 

No, we did not cut the bump stops but i haven't really gotten it off road yet so i may cut them when hunting season comes around and i really get to try these things out.

I am hoping to install and get tires next week. Can you text me some pictures of your truck with 275/65/20 please? I will dm you my number

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You could try a used 1, they used that engine in the Astro vans, Plenty of them in the boneyard. Look for a wrecked or rotted 1 so the chance that it was scrapped for that reason and not a mechanical issue will be greater
    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...